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Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

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Unread 03-01-2011, 07:13 AM   #76
CSP
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Springs can actually be drilled with a carbide tipped masonry bit on a very slow speed with lots of cutting oil. The bad part about it is the old hole becomes a weak spot in the spring pack as the aread is no longer supported by the spring perch and ubolt plate.

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Unread 03-01-2011, 10:32 AM   #77
Balvar24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Springs can actually be drilled with a carbide tipped masonry bit on a very slow speed with lots of cutting oil. The bad part about it is the old hole becomes a weak spot in the spring pack as the aread is no longer supported by the spring perch and ubolt plate.
Yeah, and if they are out of round, you get stress cracking.
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Unread 03-01-2011, 03:38 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
Springs can actually be drilled with a carbide tipped masonry bit on a very slow speed with lots of cutting oil. The bad part about it is the old hole becomes a weak spot in the spring pack as the aread is no longer supported by the spring perch and ubolt plate.
If you were that set on a pair of springs couldn't you pop them apart and weld the old hole shut? That would atleast help with the structural integrity.

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Unread 03-01-2011, 06:20 PM   #79
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Probably not a good idea. Welding will make the steel very hard and brittle due to concentration of carbon around the heat affected zone.
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Unread 03-07-2011, 05:40 PM   #80
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Got the rear axle in, and ended up with a 93" Wheel Base. I think I'll like the shorter wheelbase since I'm used to my CJ which is about the same.

In the picture below, you can see the rear shock mounts on the axle tube hangs down way too low. I cut it off, and need to reweld it back onto the axle tube.

If I put the bracket in a more horizontal location on the tube, I'll have to raise my top shock mount. The problem with that, is it will interfere with the future bed if it sticks up above the top of the frame.

I need some advice on how best to proceed since this is uncharted territory for me. Is the shock best if it is positioned in a vertical orientation, or can it be just as effective at a 45°.

I see where some guys have both shock attach above the diff. then extend to the spring u-bolt area. They look to be at about a 45° angle.

Is there a prefered mounting method?
rear-axle-swap-003.jpg   rear-axle-swap-002.jpg  
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Unread 03-07-2011, 05:52 PM   #81
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Sweet build man! I spent many hours in one of these rigs in the Air Force. I used them to pull bombs from the ammo dump to the flight line. I loved them!
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Unread 03-07-2011, 06:28 PM   #82
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If your front 44 is like the one I had, mount the rear shock mounts on the back side of the rear, like the front ones. I was able to fine an extra set of those same type mounts to use.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 05:36 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John N View Post
If your front 44 is like the one I had, mount the rear shock mounts on the back side of the rear, like the front ones. I was able to fine an extra set of those same type mounts to use.
John,
Yes, my front 44 is like that, and I figured on mounting the rear ones in a similar fashion.
Instead of hanging down at the 5 o-clock position, they would be at the 3 o-clock. (on the rear of the tube)

The issue I see is that it shortens the distance between the top and bottom shock mounts. I would need to relocate the top mount also. If I go straight up, I would be above the top of the frame. This will interfere with the future bed I have planned.

Seems I have no choice but to move the top shock mount towards the rear of the frame, which will put the shock at a 45° angle. I'm wondering if this is acceptable, since a lot of my driving for this truck will be off road, and the shock will see a lot of washboard dirt roads.

I'll try to get some pictures posted of the top mount showing what I'm up against. I may just build some shock towers and modify the bed to fit, but trying to get ideas of what will work and what won't as far as angling the shocks.
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1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
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Unread 03-12-2011, 05:32 AM   #84
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A while back, I had swapped the CJ10 transmission crossmember for the one out of the donor Wagoneer. Reason being, it sat up 2" higher and did not hang down below the frame any.

Since I was stretching the wheel base 6", I figured I could get by with it. Guess not. The drive shaft angle would be a bit too steep with the tranny up.
I am going to install the original member back in, effectively lowering the back of the tranny.

I believe this will give me less than 10° drive shaft angle.

I am also going to order some front waggy spring with 2" lift to install on the rear. I don't like how stiff the rear springs are. The back end is going to be so much lighter than the front, I'm afraid it won't flex enough.
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1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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Unread 03-12-2011, 07:07 AM   #85
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Eric I've been thinking on your shock mounting. Having the shocks mounted at an angle isn't a bad thing. A shock that's vertical works very well for bumps the tires encounter but if you look at the way some of them are mounted at an angle that seems to me that it would work better for controlling axle wrap or "wheel hop". Keep in mind this is just me thinking though, I've been wrong before.

There is a way though that you could mount your shocks above the bottom of the axle, have them vertical and not be in the way of the bed. Just mount them on the outside the the frame where the tops are mounted between the frame and the tires, much like the front shocks are mounted. I think that's what I'd do. I would for sure cut those brackets off the bottom of your axle and not have them dragging on things.

Keep the work going and pictures coming.
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Unread 03-12-2011, 07:16 AM   #86
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Eric you build is looking really good! Just got caught up.

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Unread 03-12-2011, 05:50 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Eric I've been thinking on your shock mounting. Having the shocks mounted at an angle isn't a bad thing. A shock that's vertical works very well for bumps the tires encounter but if you look at the way some of them are mounted at an angle that seems to me that it would work better for controlling axle wrap or "wheel hop". Keep in mind this is just me thinking though, I've been wrong before.

There is a way though that you could mount your shocks above the bottom of the axle, have them vertical and not be in the way of the bed. Just mount them on the outside the the frame where the tops are mounted between the frame and the tires, much like the front shocks are mounted. I think that's what I'd do. I would for sure cut those brackets off the bottom of your axle and not have them dragging on things.

Keep the work going and pictures coming.
Jim,
I have been thinking this through also, and have to agree with you on the wheel hop. As long as the angle is to the rear, and not too steep, I think that it would work the best on roads out here that get wash boarded from speeders.

Today I took out the bottom spring that was in the rear pack, and I'm liking them a lot better. (see the picture above. It is 3/4" thick. I think it was an overload spring or something.)

Going to run them like this for now and see how it goes.
I also dropped the tranny about 1-1/2 inches, and now have a 6° slope down.

I was digging around my parts pile, and found a good set of 2-1/2" wide springs that came off of some Jeep, and I could use them. I just don't want to relocate the spring perches yet. That seems like a lot of work.

Tomorrow I am going to install the hi range shift for into the T.C. so I can get it back onto the tranny and measure for a D.S. I have never torn into a 208 before. Doesn't look too difficult on paper.
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1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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Unread 03-12-2011, 05:52 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Eric you build is looking really good! Just got caught up.

Thanks a bunch. I'm really excited that I might have a crawler that also can be a DD. I just wish there was an A/C on it
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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Unread 03-16-2011, 08:11 AM   #89
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How to make an NP198 shift into Hi range

I was intimidated at first, but there is really no reason to be. It is fairly simple to make the 198 selectable just like a 208 is. I searched the web for a writeup, and the only one I found was poorly written, and confusing to me, so I decided to attempt to improve on it. A couple of the photos I'm including are from that original write-up since I forgot to take some I needed.
I hope this helps.

Here is the NP198 as I removed it from the tug chasis and cleaned it up.


Here are the parts you will need to source. Good luck on finding them. They are from a NP208. You want the Mode Shift fork from a 80-82 Dodge or AMC. This one will not have the pads on the forks. If all you can find is one with pads, then you will need to grind them off.



A parts diagram showing what work will be performed:



I am not including a lot of obvious stuff like replacing seals and o-rings. I'll leave it up to you to determine if any of the bearings are bad, or if the chain needs replaced. Most of these cases are like new on the inside due to limited use.

Drain the oil!

Remove the front and rear yokes. An impact driver works really well for this



On mine, someone didn't have the rubber seal washer that goes behind the nut to keep fluid from seeping past the splines, so there solution was RTV, and lots of it.



Remove the four bolts holding the Rear Retainer on, and the retainer will pop off with a tap from a rubber mallet. There is supposed to be RTV between the retainer and rear case mating surface.



Slide the speedometer drive gear (blue) off the shaft, then the pump housing off. Lastly pull off the white plastic pump. Notice the groove position for reassembly.


Now remove the bolts holding the rear case to the front case. This will give you access to remove the chain. Be prepared for more oil to exit.

There are two screwdriver pry slots machined into the case. This helps to split the RTV seal.





The chain is removed by pulling out the driven gear, and leaning it towards the drive gear. Behind the driven gear are a set of races and a torrington (thrust) bearing. Pay attention to the races, as there is a thick one and a thin one. You will want to make sure you get them back in the correct position.

With the chain removed, you can gain access to swap the sector.
Here is a shot of the two sectors side by side.



In this picture you can see where the Range fork is not installed on the NP198. It rides on the same shift rail as the Mode fork.



Pull out the **** rail, and the Mode fork will slide out. This will also make it possible to remove the sector. If you remove the nut from the shift lever, you will see a plastic spacer beneath, and an o-ring. I'd replace the o-ring as this is a possible leak. Also remove the plug that is screwed into the case where the 4WD indicator switch would normally be. You can grind the plug down so the sector will rotate, or replace it with a switch from an NP208



Install the new sector, and hold it in place with the nut. As you spin it, you will notice a ball detent on the bottom of the case. You can loosen the screw a few turns to make the detent less rigid. I found this helps as you go through the gears manually. You can tighten it back down later.

The main shaft will pull out of the front case, and the Annulus assy. will come with it. The input gear can stay in place. You have two choices to remove this snap ring:



Cut it off, or remove it with plyers (big ones). If you chose to remove it with snap ring plyers, there is actually a first snap ring you will have to remove to get the planetary assy. off the shaft. The two snap rings are the same size.

One the ring is removed, you will have access to the Hi Range shift.



Reinstall the Annulus with the Range forks in place. You can just manage to get the range fork pin to fit into the sector slot if the sector is rotated to its CW limit as viewed from inside the case.

Slide the shift rail onto the mode fork making sure the pointed end of the rail is out. You will be able to then slide the rail into the mode fork while positioning the mode fork into its proper position onto the sliding clutch.



Check the shifting operation several times, an note that there is no binding.
Once you are satified, reinstall the chain. Make sure the colored link is out, and don't forget the magnet!



The case halves are sealed with RTV, so clean them up with something like acetone or lacquer thinner. Don't scratch the aluminum,

Button everything up, and add lube.

If you are going to run a CV joint for the rear drive shaft, you can swap the yokes. This assumes you don't also need a CV shaft up front. When I checked my angles, I need one in the rear, but not the front, so i am swapping the yokes front to rear.

Should use new nuts to install the yokes. I didn't, and hope I'm not sorry later.

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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 03-16-2011, 01:33 PM   #90
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Nice write up!!! I love the RTV!!!!
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