New CJ10-A project - Page 17 - JeepForum.com

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post #241 of 278 Old 07-05-2011, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1x1_Speed_Craig View Post
Don't waste your money on 4.10 gears. I had 4.10s in my '10a with 34" swampers, and needed to be lower. I'd go 4.56 or 4.88 based on my experience. That Nissan SD-33 is a dog on the open road (and also at low speeds in high range).

Craig
Thanks for the advice! I'm on the fence with the 4.56 ratio because I'd like to drive the 65 miles down to the ranch. I want it to be streetable, so I'm not sure.


'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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post #242 of 278 Old 07-05-2011, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
The way the mud was sticking to the tires, must have been extra gooey.
Yes, they mine this stuff called bentonite nearby. It is a clay used to seal ponds. Not sure if this clay is bentonite, but it just keeps getting thicker and thicker.

I had chunks flying in my lap, inside my collar and down my back, hitting the inside of the windshield etc. I'm definately getting wider flares.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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post #243 of 278 Old 07-05-2011, 12:52 PM
Jim1611
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Eric that's some mighty nice country you have down there. If I ever get down that way I want a tour.

Hey I bet you'll be glad to get that transfer shifter going.


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post #244 of 278 Old 07-05-2011, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Hey I bet you'll be glad to get that transfer shifter going.
Man! You are so right about that! I was toolin along in 2wd, hit that snot on the road, got out and was thinking, I really don't want to crawl under this thing to shift into 4wd. Lesson learned...
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IMG_2267.jpg  

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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post #245 of 278 Old 07-05-2011, 02:56 PM
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No inspection cover?
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post #246 of 278 Old 07-05-2011, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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I didn't think about that then, but there is enough room between the frame and body to reach in without getting underneath. Thank goodness! I was able to just bend over and reach under to shift.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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post #247 of 278 Old 07-10-2011, 02:40 PM
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That mud looks exactly like the mud we have down here. It aint deep but it sure is slick!
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post #248 of 278 Old 07-11-2011, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Free new parts

A buddy told me i could help myself to his burned up 76 Scout Terra. It was in a garage fire, and was a total loss. I drove the 25 miles, and found the truck upside down out in a field. I pulled the axles, D30/D44. Good spares for a CJ.

I was hoping to find a T-19 manual tranny that would bolt right up to the SD33 engine flywheel adapter, but no dice. It was a 3 speed with a D20. I grabbed it anyways, along with pressure plate and clutch.

I snagged the gas tank, and the oil pan since they were still good. Not sure if I'll ever need these parts, but I know the scout II axles are getting hard to find. The disc brake setup is good.

My 4.10 gears are coming today, so plenty of work lined up.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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post #249 of 278 Old 07-11-2011, 09:18 AM
benullman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
A buddy told me i could help myself to his burned up 76 Scout Terra. It was in a garage fire, and was a total loss. I drove the 25 miles, and found the truck upside down out in a field. I pulled the axles, D30/D44. Good spares for a CJ.

I was hoping to find a T-19 manual tranny that would bolt right up to the SD33 engine flywheel adapter, but no dice. It was a 3 speed with a D20. I grabbed it anyways, along with pressure plate and clutch.

I snagged the gas tank, and the oil pan since they were still good. Not sure if I'll ever need these parts, but I know the scout II axles are getting hard to find. The disc brake setup is good.

My 4.10 gears are coming today, so plenty of work lined up.
Maybe I dont know what im talking about but I thought scouts came with D44s front/rear?

Ben

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Great minds think alike, but so do serial killers......Thanks.
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post #250 of 278 Old 07-11-2011, 09:33 AM
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Scouts didn't get D44s front and rear until 1974 when the Scout II came out, and Scouts had been around for several years prior to that. Scout 80s and 800s were D30 in front. Many of them also had twin stick Dana 18 transfer cases.
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post #251 of 278 Old 07-11-2011, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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No, you guys know what your talking about! I took a better look at the front, and it is a D44. Not a D30. I pressure washed everything today, and the axles are mint except for one of the lockout hubs melted. Couldn't see any other damage except for the rubber brake hose burt up.

Going out now to check the ratio.

Edit: Ratio is 3.54
Attached Thumbnails
Scout-II-D44-001.jpg  

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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post #252 of 278 Old 07-11-2011, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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I used the transfer case shifter from the parts YJ, and adapted it to work for the CJ10. It turned out quite well, and is easy to operate. Even has the detents in the right spot, only backward. What I mean, is you have to move the shifter lateraly to shift into hi range, and should be the other way around.


Anybody know how to get the handle to fit tighter on the shifter? Seems like there must be a rubber piece that went inside the square opening? Don't really want to weld it.
Attached Thumbnails
Scout-II-D44-003.jpg   Scout-II-D44-002.jpg  

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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post #253 of 278 Old 07-11-2011, 07:08 PM
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Man! You are so right about that! I was toolin along in 2wd, hit that snot on the road, got out and was thinking, I really don't want to crawl under this thing to shift into 4wd. Lesson learned...
This is a classic picture!

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post #254 of 278 Old 07-12-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
...Anybody know how to get the handle to fit tighter on the shifter? Seems like there must be a rubber piece that went inside the square opening? Don't really want to weld it.
there is, it's called an isolator clip, but; the factory clips are notoriously weak, hard to find, and a tad on the expensive side.


do this instead

tack weld jam nuts to two sides of the base of the handle (like 12 and 3 o'clock) and use machine set screws to secure it. I did my T4 that way, and it worked like a charm (while not being 'permanent)

HTH

Hoss

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post #255 of 278 Old 07-12-2011, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
there is, it's called an isolator clip, but; the factory clips are notoriously weak, hard to find, and a tad on the expensive side.


do this instead

tack weld jam nuts to two sides of the base of the handle (like 12 and 3 o'clock) and use machine set screws to secure it. I did my T4 that way, and it worked like a charm (while not being 'permanent)

HTH

Hoss
Hoss,
Yeah, I was researching this very thing this AM, and saw the thread where the set screws were used. I just went ahead and ordered the original parts from QT. It was only $11 or so shipped for the clips and the isolator.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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