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Unread 03-03-2014, 07:38 PM   #31
BagusJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammer1 View Post
If the front driveshaft was disconnected theirs probably a reason. If he's got a problem with the front axle the driveshaft may not be any help. It would be helpful to know more. I've also heard of people on the trail tightening up the axle nut as tight as they can and then driving (spinning the axle). sometimes the heat can temp. seize them together. hopefully enough to limp to a shop if he can't do the axle repair himself (another reason if he can weld or knows someone with a portable welder to spot weld the hub to the shaft so he would know if clutch is ok and limp to a repair shop).
One of the causes of failure is a lack of torque on the Axle Nut. It is 350 foot lbs. Metric 1/2" socket sets come with a 32mm socket as the largest, the Axle Nut measures 33mm.

I have a 3/4" drive bar and 33mm socket, those Axle Nuts get retorqued every 6 months or when I hear creaking. I have to jump on the end of the bar to get that kind of torque

If it fails and you torque like crazy it will hold together under mild torque. Unfortunately the joint is now smoothed and it will slip. Yes, you could limp home as long as the hills were few and you were careful, but you need that big socket and bar.

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Unread 03-03-2014, 07:40 PM   #32
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Interesting that his 76 CJ has a slave cylinder setup. I always liked the foolproof and easily repairable stock mechanical linkage.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 07:56 PM   #33
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I converted mine to a hydraulic clutch. I got tired of the old linkage falling out, binding up under flex, etc. It's way easier to work the clutch on the trail now.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 08:30 PM   #34
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I agree, If it were mine I would put the one pc axles in. The one I'm building now is all set for my mechanic to put the axles in (mosser axles, ring and pinions and limited slip sitting in shop). If it weren't for the gear change I would do the axles, I just don't have the tools and experience. One mistake and it can be costly. I'm assuming by the post he might not do the one pc. on his own. That's why I was suggesting to tighten the axle nut (or if he had welder a tac weld) just to get to shop.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 09:29 PM   #35
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I'm going to replace the axle shafts and go from there. I will reinstall tcase/trans/clutch and shafts this week. I think bagus and jammer are dead on with all issues pointing to axle. Tcase and Trans have been rebuilt about 150 miles ago. Clutch disk and pressure plate are both new. Fly wheel was just resurfaced. I inspected all items and found almost no wear on anything so either the pressure plate isn't touching anymore or it has to be the axle. There is no way I put 350lbs on that axle nut and therefore created this problem which frustrates the crap out of me. I hate my own stupidity. I figure if I have to replace one I'm already halfway there to axle swap so i'm gonna do it right. Anything I may need to know to swap them? Front drive shaft isn't installed b/c I swapped trans and tcase out and my stock drive shaft is now too long. Just haven't had the chance to get it cut and balanced yet. Would have saved me a tow if I had I bet. Thanks so much for the help. I will update as soon as I get replacement shafts installed. I bet is saves me a tow to trans shop and I like that.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 10:13 PM   #36
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So I just read that installing replacement shafts on a Amc20 is not very smart unless you have proper tools and knowledge and strong desire to not cook bearings. Any thoughts? I have replaced axle shafts before but obviously that didn't go so well last time.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 10:28 PM   #37
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So I just read that installing replacement shafts on a Amc20 is not very smart unless you have proper tools and knowledge and strong desire to not cook bearings. Any thoughts? I have replaced axle shafts before but obviously that didn't go so well last time.
You can cook bearings with either stock or 1 piece shaft. With stock shafts, the endplay has to be properly set. With 1 piece, just make sure the axles turn freely and are not binding. Best thing to do with 1 piece is to open the diff and make sure there is some left-right play in the spacer block (if you have not removed it).
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Unread 03-03-2014, 10:35 PM   #38
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I had a locker installed I believe its an Auburn if I remember correctly. Will that make a difference?
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Unread 03-03-2014, 11:17 PM   #39
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Its a limited slip differential.
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I had a locker installed I believe its an Auburn if I remember correctly. Will that make a difference?
Is it a locker OR is it a limited slip? Can't be both...

In either case, you need to make sure the thrust block doesn't rub on the axle shaft(s) or you will get metal shavings floating in the gear oil (very bad). The manufacturer of the new 1-pice shafts should be able to tell you if the thrust block needs to be removed or not.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 11:19 PM   #40
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limited slip
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Unread 03-04-2014, 02:01 AM   #41
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Is it a locker OR is it a limited slip? Can't be both...

In either case, you need to make sure the spacer doesn't rub on the axle shaft(s) or you will get metal shavings floating in the gear oil (very bad). The manufacturer of the 1-pice shafts should be able to tell you if the spacer needs to be removed or not.
If the 1 piece axle shafts bottom out on the diff thrust block (spacer) there is a chance that the bearings will be overloaded when the brake backing plates are tightened down. the result is that the bearings burn up in short order. I have read that problem stems from slight variations in housing width dimensions.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 08:29 AM   #42
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You have to find out if you have a thrust block (if limited slip I heard it might not have, depending on make). If you know for sure you don't and you have amc 20, you don't have to go into the differential. It,s just pulling the axles out and putting the spacer in the end of the axle tube. you have to measure how much extends out of the tube and be within a certain measurement (different amounts per manufacture). Once you have this it's a matter of putting together, pressing on the bearing onto the axle shaft, putting a bearing race in the axle housing and bolting up. This is a basic outline not the exact procedure but close. Go to the axle manufacture web site (some stores on the internet will have a pdf of the instructions also) and get the instructions and read them. My mechanic said it was a pain in the a** with the spacer installing then grinding then installing etc. He did my cj7 4 yrs. ago on the exact rebuild to the cj8 I'm doing now (except 4.56 gears instead of 4.10). This is off a moser axle.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 01:02 PM   #43
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You have to find out if you have a thrust block (if limited slip I heard it might not have, depending on make).
Can't speak to all differentials, but factory open diff and factory trac loc diff (limited slip) both use a thrust block. Can't imagine how you would be able to set the axle bearing pre-load for 2-piece axles without a thrust block for the ends of the axle shafts to push against.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 01:13 PM   #44
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Yeah. Any diff used with stock 2 piece axles would have to have a thrust block .
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Unread 03-04-2014, 01:40 PM   #45
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http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...s+thrust+block Look at post 7. http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...s+thrust+block explains what can happen if clearance isn't there with the block, doesn't appear to be problem with all. http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...s+thrust+block contact manufacture before install to make sure.
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