Originally Posted by jammer1 View Post
I have a 3/4" drive bar and 33mm socket, those Axle Nuts get retorqued every 6 months or when I hear creaking. I have to jump on the end of the bar to get that kind of torque
If it fails and you torque like crazy it will hold together under mild torque. Unfortunately the joint is now smoothed and it will slip. Yes, you could limp home as long as the hills were few and you were careful, but you need that big socket and bar.
BagusJeep lives in Bali.
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
I converted mine to a hydraulic clutch. I got tired of the old linkage falling out, binding up under flex, etc. It's way easier to work the clutch on the trail now.
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!
Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
I agree, If it were mine I would put the one pc axles in. The one I'm building now is all set for my mechanic to put the axles in (mosser axles, ring and pinions and limited slip sitting in shop). If it weren't for the gear change I would do the axles, I just don't have the tools and experience. One mistake and it can be costly. I'm assuming by the post he might not do the one pc. on his own. That's why I was suggesting to tighten the axle nut (or if he had welder a tac weld) just to get to shop.
I'm going to replace the axle shafts and go from there. I will reinstall tcase/trans/clutch and shafts this week. I think bagus and jammer are dead on with all issues pointing to axle. Tcase and Trans have been rebuilt about 150 miles ago. Clutch disk and pressure plate are both new. Fly wheel was just resurfaced. I inspected all items and found almost no wear on anything so either the pressure plate isn't touching anymore or it has to be the axle. There is no way I put 350lbs on that axle nut and therefore created this problem which frustrates the crap out of me. I hate my own stupidity. I figure if I have to replace one I'm already halfway there to axle swap so i'm gonna do it right. Anything I may need to know to swap them? Front drive shaft isn't installed b/c I swapped trans and tcase out and my stock drive shaft is now too long. Just haven't had the chance to get it cut and balanced yet. Would have saved me a tow if I had I bet. Thanks so much for the help. I will update as soon as I get replacement shafts installed. I bet is saves me a tow to trans shop and I like that.
So I just read that installing replacement shafts on a Amc20 is not very smart unless you have proper tools and knowledge and strong desire to not cook bearings. Any thoughts? I have replaced axle shafts before but obviously that didn't go so well last time.
In either case, you need to make sure the thrust block doesn't rub on the axle shaft(s) or you will get metal shavings floating in the gear oil (very bad). The manufacturer of the new 1-pice shafts should be able to tell you if the thrust block needs to be removed or not.
Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
You have to find out if you have a thrust block (if limited slip I heard it might not have, depending on make). If you know for sure you don't and you have amc 20, you don't have to go into the differential. It,s just pulling the axles out and putting the spacer in the end of the axle tube. you have to measure how much extends out of the tube and be within a certain measurement (different amounts per manufacture). Once you have this it's a matter of putting together, pressing on the bearing onto the axle shaft, putting a bearing race in the axle housing and bolting up. This is a basic outline not the exact procedure but close. Go to the axle manufacture web site (some stores on the internet will have a pdf of the instructions also) and get the instructions and read them. My mechanic said it was a pain in the a** with the spacer installing then grinding then installing etc. He did my cj7 4 yrs. ago on the exact rebuild to the cj8 I'm doing now (except 4.56 gears instead of 4.10). This is off a moser axle.
Originally Posted by jammer1 View Post
http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...s+thrust+block Look at post 7. http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...s+thrust+block explains what can happen if clearance isn't there with the block, doesn't appear to be problem with all. http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...s+thrust+block contact manufacture before install to make sure.
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