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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 03-02-2014, 10:41 AM   #1
yellowdog44
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New axle??

I jacked up the rear end of my cj yesterday for some maintenance. Happened to bump my passenger rear wheel and noticed play. I then pulled the wheel to see why - maybe I need to tighten axle nut and found this... Any ideas as to why this would happen? Do I need a new axle now? Any help is greatly appreciated.

axle.jpg

axle-2.jpg

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Unread 03-02-2014, 10:59 AM   #2
Spieg8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowdog44 View Post
Any ideas as to why this would happen?
It was a poor design by AMC. What you have is a very common problem. Get yourself a pair of 1-piece axle shafts.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 11:07 AM   #3
RenoF250
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Yes time for some of these:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/yukon-1...rp-yah21l.html

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...G%2f296-2025-1
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Unread 03-02-2014, 04:45 PM   #4
yellowdog44
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Thanks for responding. I have about 150 miles on this axle prior to this happening, I was thinking I must have done something incorrectly. I remember having the exact issue on my previous set of Amc 20 axles prior to swap - driver side though.

If I went with the suggested axle above, do you know if I would need to replace both sides at the same time? I would assume so but if I could hold off on an additional $160 for a few it would be better for the checkbook.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 04:59 PM   #5
82JeepCJ7
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They are sold as a set.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 05:02 PM   #6
Spieg8
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I think you do have to replace both if you change to one piece.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 07:29 PM   #7
82JeepCJ7
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Installing 1pc axles requires the removal of the spacer block in the middle of the diff. With out this, the 2pc axles will not be set up correctly.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 07:36 PM   #8
yellowdog44
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Ok thanks. I will get to ordering

My biggest problem is my clutch. Flywheel resurfaced, new centerforce pressure plate and clutch, hydraulic slave cylinder. Worked for a week. On way to work it slipped once around a corner, caught and worked the rest of the way perfect. When I hopped in to leave that evening, could hardly even get it to move when in gear. Pulled everything down, inspected everything, cleaned surfaces, replaced clutch slave cylinder, installed everything again - nothing changed. At a loss. Inspected everything centerforce suggested and no evidence of wear or damage. Does anyone have any ideas? I can't help but feel like she's fighting me for some reason...
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Unread 03-02-2014, 07:49 PM   #9
RenoF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowdog44 View Post
Ok thanks. I will get to ordering

My biggest problem is my clutch. Flywheel resurfaced, new centerforce pressure plate and clutch, hydraulic slave cylinder. Worked for a week. On way to work it slipped once around a corner, caught and worked the rest of the way perfect. When I hopped in to leave that evening, could hardly even get it to move when in gear. Pulled everything down, inspected everything, cleaned surfaces, replaced clutch slave cylinder, installed everything again - nothing changed. At a loss. Inspected everything centerforce suggested and no evidence of wear or damage. Does anyone have any ideas? I can't help but feel like she's fighting me for some reason...
external or internal slave? If external I would remove the slave and start it in gear and see if moves. Make sure you are prepared for it to move of course. If it does you have something wrong there, I cannot see any other reason for it to slip that much.

Dumb question but you are sure you tcase is not in N?
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Unread 03-02-2014, 08:00 PM   #10
yellowdog44
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Thanks for responding. I actually removed the slave cylinder completely and tried that. It will start when in gear. You can feel the jeep move slightly but doesn't totally engage. When the slave cylinder was installed I could get clutch to grip enough to back out but driveway is on a slight decline. Had to push it back in garage... TC is not in N. Tried 4L, 4H, and 2 with same results.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 08:07 PM   #11
BagusJeep
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Hang on, was this before yesterday when you found the axle???????

Are you sure it is the clutch and not just the axle spinning inside the hub?

When the axle to hub connection starts to go you often get a creaking sound, as the parts start to move, then a clacking sound as the splines start to slip and then an occassional momentary loss of drive and slipping, especially uphill, before complete loss of drive. You could be confusing clutch slip with AMC20 2 piece slip.

If it had been together I would have suggested trying it in 4WD with the hubs locked, the front axle may have pulled it out of the driveway.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 08:12 PM   #12
RenoF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
Hang on, was this before yesterday when you found the axle???????

Are you sure it is the clutch and not just the axle spinning inside the hub?

When the axle to hub connection starts to go you often get a creaking sound, as the parts start to move, then a clacking sound as the splines start to slip and then an occassional momentary loss of drive and slipping, especially uphill, before complete loss of drive. You could be confusing clutch slip with AMC20 2 piece slip.

If it had been together I would have suggested trying it in 4WD, the front axle may have pulled it out of the driveway.
Good call, I let myself get switched on to the clutch subject but I would guess you are right. Hopefully he really only has one problem to fix.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 08:21 PM   #13
jammer1
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If you can start it in gear and it doesn't stall and barely moves (if I got this correct), can you put her on jack stands, starter her and put the parking brake on (if you can figure a way with you're axle, or after you fix the axle). If she's in gear with resistance on the rear brakes (not turning). See if you can look up at the pressure plate and input shaft. If pressure plate is turning (has to be) and the input shaft is not, clutch is slipping (like the pressure plate isn't clamping down on the clutch disk with enough pressure). If input shaft is turning and it's not getting to the wheels, another problem.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 08:53 PM   #14
yellowdog44
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Brilliant! Only I have a locker in the rear axle so if the one axle was spinning, wouldn't the other shaft lock and move the jeep? I can spin the axle when off the ground and the other tire spins. That would rule out bad gearing in pumpkin. Holy crap, that would explain how it would slip and then grab if the hub was momentarily spinning and then grabbing once more. Is this what you are talking about? I said earlier I had tried 4wd but it wouldn't have even mattered in this scenario since I don't have a front drive shaft at this time (one of the things left on the list). I think that this is almost certainly the solution if the part about my rear locker doesn't wrench it up.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 09:32 PM   #15
jammer1
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If you could put the parking brake on with the jeep on jack stands and the engine continued running in gear it would be a way to see if the clutch disk/pressure plate was slipping (input shaft would not be turning) or if the input shaft was turning (rear wheels still with parking brake on) then something else in the trans, transfer, is not gripping or broke. If I have my jeep on stands and put in gear (automatic trans), I can put the parking brake on to stop wheels turning. When working on jeep and it's up, I do this to adjust idle speed in gear. When you said you had it on the ground, in gear and engine running I figured a safe way to climb under it to see where it's slipping. Because the hub is off on the rear axle, I was afraid this there's no way to put the brakes on both rear wheels. If you can temp. put the hub on tight enough too hold with the brakes in gear this would help answer what's slipping. Otherwise you can try it after the one piece axle swap. All I know is you should not be able to have engine running and in gear with wheels not turning unless trans or transfer case in neutral or clutch engaged.
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