I have a clearwater 4.0 conversion head and the red aluminum valve cover from Crown doesn't fit? Plus I cant tell why, at first I thought it was the rocker bridges hitting but its not. all the bolt holes look dead on it just wont sit down completely onto the head.
Agree with gmakra. I have the Clearwater head with as valves and had to grind down the valve cover around a couple of the valves for it to sit correctly. There is plenty of meat on the valve cover and it just needs a little grinding to sit flush.
Well got around to masking the inside of valve cover and looks like the first and last valve spring retainers are hitting. I'm gonna first file the outside where it's tight against the ARP head bolts (drivers side) and then try and carefully grind the inside a bit
Sounds good. That's exactly what I did. Like I said that valve cover has plenty you can take off and as you can see it really doesn't need that much to work. I used an air die grinder and had no issues.
Clearwater wouldn't even tell me what springs they used...trust me they aren't too helpful. I bought a 500 head and had to do 300 dollars worth of head work for it to work with my cam....( long story)
Now now, we did determine part of that whole debacle was due to them not having received all the pertinent info......
As for the interference, it is a pretty well documented problem in the stroker community and came up in several google searches when I was researching cams for my head swap. So it's not specific to clearwater heads, per se.
'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.
The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her. :-D