[SuB8HaVeN]

I think it's about time to upgrade either my battery or alternator. Last weekend when I went wheeling I had to winch myself out of a real bad stuck, and I initially revved it up a little and the winch wouldn't even pull any line in at all. I had to rev it up to about 3000RPM and it finally started pulling real slowly, and then I finally got enough to get some traction and help it out.

Right now I just have a standard Wal-Mart battery that seems to do great otherwise. I've left my headlights on while camping for an hour before with the radio going and it will crank just fine. It also doesn't seem to have any trouble cranking that old 258. The alternator is also stock and had been replaced at one time by the PO because it looks newer. I was told it was a GM style alternator.

My question is, should I upgrade the battery, alternator, both, or is my 8000lb. winch just not enough?

[LGreevesCJ7]

I think you need to investigate more of what the problem is. Is you voltometer reading normal? Have your altinator checked. Investigate the problems to find the true problem but if you want to upgrade by all mean start throwing money!

[4d9r]

I'd start by checking all my electrical connections for good contacts including the grounds. From what I gather this is a recent event and the winch worked properly before now?
I'd check the output of the alternator as this may be going south and your battery shouldn't come into play with the problem as you describe it. If everything checks out, it's probably the winch.

[SuB8HaVeN]

I didn't think to check the volt meter, but it usually runs just fine. It will do 14V when running normal, and when it's loaded with the lights/electric cooling fan on, it will do about 12V. Does anyone know what GM alternators will swap onto the CJ bracket? I've heard you can use an alternator out of a V8 Cadillac, but would I need to use the CJ pulley, or would they be the same style belt?

I don't think it's any of the connections seeing that it was trying. When I finally revved it up a lot it probably provided enough amps to turn the winch motor. That's what I was thinking. It was a pretty bad stuck, so I'm sure it was pushing the limits of what the winch can do, but it probably wasn't getting enough power to do anything.

[Mike Romain]

I would be cleaning connections, starting with the winch power connection.

If the winch was maxed out, your power wires to it would be smoking hot, literally. I melted the heat shrink off the main power line end on one nasty pull that stalled mine.

I have used my Warn HS 9000i all day on trail cleanups. I have a manual choke that acts like a manual fast idle also so I can set it at 1200 rpm on the fast idle cam, then back off the choke to leave it there until i tap the gas pedal and basically winch everyone up the hill behind me with no battery issues.

I just run the stock Jeep alternator.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN

I think it's about time to upgrade either my battery or alternator. Last weekend when I went wheeling I had to winch myself out of a real bad stuck, and I initially revved it up a little and the winch wouldn't even pull any line in at all. I had to rev it up to about 3000RPM and it finally started pulling real slowly, and then I finally got enough to get some traction and help it out.

I don't think you have a bad battery or alternator.

First things first,
If you have a winch, you SHOULD HAVE dual batteries with dual current paths to your winch and starter...
Dual batteries will make a HUGE difference in the pulling power and longevity of your winch and batteries.

Secondly,
NO ALTERNTOR IS GOING TO PUT OUT ENOUGH CURRENT TO POWER A WINCH WHEN YOU ARE 'BAD STUCK'.
PERIOD.

A generator with a dedicated engine driving it, MAYBE...
But the 70 or so amps an automotive alternator can sustain without overheating and melting it's diodes... NEVER GOING TO HAPPEN.

Third,
Load testing is free, have your battery load tested.
If it passes, it's not your battery or alternator.
--------------------

I'd take a long hard look at cables, connectors, winch solenoids, ect.
This sounds like a problem with delivery rather than available supply...

If you snapped the controller several times before it started to take up cable, you may have just knocked the carbon off contacts in the winch solenoids, or finally got a corroded or loose connection to weld it's self together long enough to winch you out.

Remember, your starter is the largest draw on supply until you add a winch.
Once a winch is installed, you need to supply it with at least 2 Ga. fine strand virgin copper wire (NO ALLOYS!).
That includes both positive and negative!

Use solid copper ends, crimp, then solder on the ends, then use heat shrink tubing to seal things up!
Don't forget the star washers in the connections so they STAY connected when heat expansion & contraction from use moves them around!
because they ARE going to heat up and move around when it use!

Right now I just have a standard Wal-Mart battery that seems to do great otherwise. I've left my headlights on while camping for an hour before with the radio going and it will crank just fine. It also doesn't seem to have any trouble cranking that old 258. The alternator is also stock and had been replaced at one time by the PO because it looks newer. I was told it was a GM style alternator.

Sounds about right...
Walmart uses a 'Discount' battery in it's lines, but it's still a reasonable battery... I'm not sure it's suitable for 'Heavy Duty' use, but it will live in the average passenger vehicle.

Wally-world sells a butt load of batteries, so they are usually fresh, and they buy from name brand makers for their private label batteries, they are just the 'Economy' batteries.

My question is, should I upgrade the battery, alternator, both, or is my 8000lb. winch just not enough?

I'd be more worried about the cables.
Cheap cables can really ruin an otherwise well designed winch in a hurry!
Nothing smokes relays, solenoids, motors faster than insufficient current supply, and the best way to starve the winch for supply is to use crappy cables!

Find a welding shop somewhere, get 2 Ga. (or larger) welding cable and solid copper ends for it.

If you buy the cables there, the shop will usually crimp the ends on for free, and a cable this large takes a special crimper...

The welding shop will probably have large heat shrink tubing for sealing up the connections after you solder.
DO NOT install the heat shrink before you solder!

Once crimped in place, use a silver bearing solder made for electrical work.
ROSIN core, silver bearing solder can be had at Radio Shack for cheap, but it's very fine and you will have to feed a lot of it into a connection this large.
Worth the trouble if you want to get the most out of your winch and batteries!

Plumbing solder has an acid core and should NOT be used!

Use the toothed 'Internal Star Washers' so the joints at solenoids, ect. don't loose connection as the expand & contract with heat from heavy use.

I also make a point of using brass or copper washers & nuts on the terminals to help with delivering the current.

If you have corrosion problems from moisture,
Try using a little copper based 'Never Seize' in and on the connection to protect it.
The copper base is conductive, so it helps the connection, and the grease is a moisture barrier...
Where grease is, moisture can't be!