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Unread 06-05-2012, 09:16 PM   #1
sertshark
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Negative Ground Cable to Dedicated Ground

I'm in the process of creating a dedicated ground bolt/bus on the passenger fender. I have been making a few 10awg lengths for the alternator, Howell TBI grounds, dash, firewall, grill, etc. But, I'm having a little difficulty figuring out how to attach a 4awg wire to both the starter and the ground bus, from the neg terminal of the battery. I've read the awesome posts by Jeephammer, so I realize the best bet would be to have one made, however I am having trouble finding someone who can make me a negative terminal with two wires (one for starter, one for ground bus). I guess I could just purchase the wire and use the screw-down type of terminals to attach both 4awg wires, but I would think it would be defeating the purpose because they do not seem very secure (especially if I am squeezing two wires in).

Anyone have any suggestions?

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Unread 06-05-2012, 09:43 PM   #2
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sertshark View Post
I'm in the process of creating a dedicated ground bolt/bus on the passenger fender. I have been making a few 10awg lengths for the alternator, Howell TBI grounds, dash, firewall, grill, etc. But, I'm having a little difficulty figuring out how to attach a 4awg wire to both the starter and the ground bus, from the neg terminal of the battery. I've read the awesome posts by Jeephammer, so I realize the best bet would be to have one made, however I am having trouble finding someone who can make me a negative terminal with two wires (one for starter, one for ground bus). I guess I could just purchase the wire and use the screw-down type of terminals to attach both 4awg wires, but I would think it would be defeating the purpose because they do not seem very secure (especially if I am squeezing two wires in).

Anyone have any suggestions?
This has worked well for me and the idea came from Keith460, The top bus bar is for negitive feads, the bottom is for positive feads. Both bars are fead directly from the battery


See my web site, go half way down the page
http://www.leverfamilysite.com/1984_...2012_03_26.htm
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Unread 06-05-2012, 11:19 PM   #3
JeffreyCharles
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Forget the screw-down terminals. As you've already figured, what you need is some #4awg welding cable (I buy mine from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun - http://www.windsun.com/ - but you should be able to find it at any local welding supply shop), a negative connector like this flag connector from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/748/=hurgxc), some good copper end connectors off eBay, and a hammer driven crimping tool like this: http://www.solar-electric.com/hacrtoforlal.html (I found mine on eBay for $12). Of course, if you plan to make many cables a nicer crimping tool would be better, but I just couldn't justify the cost for my ground project. Get some good silver solder from Radio Shack, ala JeepHammer, a propane torch from the hardware store, and have at it! If I can do it, so can you!

Now, where'd I leave my drink?...
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Unread 06-06-2012, 01:42 AM   #4
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever

This has worked well for me and the idea came from Keith460, The top bus bar is for negitive feads, the bottom is for positive feads. Both bars are fead directly from the battery

See my web site, go half way down the page
http://www.leverfamilysite.com/1984_...2012_03_26.htm
I like the setup. I have a remote trans filter where your relays are mounted........you copied my MSD location. I'm filing a patent grievance.
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Unread 06-06-2012, 03:40 AM   #5
keith460
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I bought battery cables from Autozone that had the extra accessory wire molded into the battery terminal connection. They are a common feature and should be easy to find at most auto stores. The cable is 4awg going from the battery to the engine block and the extra accessory wire is 10awg from battery to ground bus bar. All other ground wires off the bus bar are 12awg. I have another 4awg ground wire from engine block to Alternator.




Like GlennLever, we also have another bus bar for 12V power supply for accessories like headlight relays and underhood light.

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Unread 06-06-2012, 03:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
This has worked well for me and the idea came from Keith460, The top bus bar is for negitive feads, the bottom is for positive feads.
Hey GlennLever, Where did you source those bus bars from? I'm having a terrible time finding something.

Paul
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Unread 06-06-2012, 04:44 AM   #7
mopar346
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I used a dual post battery so I could have a heavy cable to the block, the starter and the auxilary ground point. It also allowed me direct power and ground for the winch set up.

You could also get a diesel battery cable designed to have 2 battery inlines, just cut off the final terminal end and crimp a lug on it.
grounds.jpg  
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Unread 06-06-2012, 10:14 AM   #8
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oxmarqt View Post
Hey GlennLever, Where did you source those bus bars from? I'm having a terrible time finding something.

Paul
Once again Keith460 was the source of this information.

The terminals are from a junk yard off a mid 90's GM pickup truck.
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Unread 06-06-2012, 10:47 AM   #9
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They make a copper post that has a threaded stud on each side of a base hex. The short side bolts to the fender and the longer side is to stack ring terminals on such as the end of premade ground wires. I've seen them in several auto stores with the battery terminal and wire stuff. I got mine at one of the "Bumper to Bumper" stores, I believe it was an "A&A Parts" store.
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Unread 06-06-2012, 10:53 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
...you copied my MSD location. I'm filing a patent grievance.
You're gonna hafta stand in a LONG line on that one!
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Unread 08-02-2015, 03:46 PM   #11
258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
This has worked well for me and the idea came from Keith460, The top bus bar is for negitive feads, the bottom is for positive feads. Both bars are fead directly from the battery


See my web site, go half way down the page
http://www.leverfamilysite.com/1984_...2012_03_26.htm
So, does one terminal make all the other posts HOT? . . . or do they need to be made HOT separately? I stumbled upon one of these and might add it for its obvious benefits.
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Unread 08-02-2015, 04:14 PM   #12
keith460
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All can be HOT or Ground, you just need one wire to one of the post as they are ALL connected together. Hence the name: Bus Bar.
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Unread 08-02-2015, 04:16 PM   #13
258
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Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
All can be HOT or Ground, you just need one wire to one of the post as they are ALL connected together. Hence the name: Bus Bar.
Awesome! Wasn't sure about the connection aspect but figured the "bar" was just a group of. Found a NOS for $12.99. It will come in handy. Thanks again.
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Unread 08-02-2015, 04:20 PM   #14
swatson454
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The ground bus, mentioned by Renegade, seems to work really well for tying several different things into one point for the battery negative to snag. I wish I'd done a better job at its location. Some of these guys really make me rethink my hastiness.



I grounded the alternator case to the same place (bolt hole) that I grounded the head to. Then I relocated the OEM ground down to one of the starter bolts. If I'd thought ahead, I could have set that ground bus in a better spot and caught the dash, grill, distributor, etc. all to the same spot and then straight to the battery negative.


Shawn
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Unread 08-02-2015, 05:12 PM   #15
258
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Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
The ground bus, mentioned by Renegade, seems to work really well for tying several different things into one point for the battery negative to snag. I wish I'd done a better job at its location. Some of these guys really make me rethink my hastiness.

I grounded the alternator case to the same place (bolt hole) that I grounded the head to. Then I relocated the OEM ground down to one of the starter bolts. If I'd thought ahead, I could have set that ground bus in a better spot and caught the dash, grill, distributor, etc. all to the same spot and then straight to the battery negative.

Shawn
Understood! I did the same thing and am very pleased (JH suggestion). I feel good that those grounds are isolated from others that I have since connected. So, you did good.

I also have two separate FIREWALL grounding junctions (like the image shown below which is from a previous post on here but that's the style) on the driver side/passenger side and they act as the dedicated for each side. They both feed through the firewall and connect to the dash. It allows me to connect now without running multiple wires across the firewall to the battery. Basically, they are set and good to go. Got that idea from a previous post on here. So, you get great ideas from other members which is very cool. Gets the creative idea wheels spinning.

This new one will be for the positive terminals I need for lighting applications. I have been looking for a long time and feel lucky to have found this one. They are not easy to find in my region. I will use it to connect relays, circuit breakers and stuff. Just makes sense and things cleaner to connect.
junction-block.jpg

new-junction-bar.jpg


Last edited by 258; 08-02-2015 at 05:25 PM..
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