My buddy had a true trac and hates it. But some people like them. I am assuming being in FL you don't see much snow. So you could go with a lunchbox locker inthe front. Aussie, powertrax, ect. The rear should be a selectable. ARB, Ected, ect.
1980 CJ 7--3" Black Diamond, 1" body, locked both ends, 4.56, 35x12.50x15 SS LTB, "family" cage
If you want to maintain normal street manners then you will want to get a selectable locker (ARB/Ox/Auburn) in the rear. That way you can turn it off when driving around on the street and it will behave as an open diff.
In the front you can throw a lunchbox (aussie/lok-rite), fullcase (detroit), or selectable in and it really wont matter in 2WD on the street with your front hubs unlocked. Full case and selectables require that you reset the gears though whereas a lunchbox drops in where the spider gears already are.
I hear good and bad about True Tracs although more good than bad.
ARB's and OX usually get the most praise on here but they are the most expensive also. A full case Detroit is actually probably the strongest but its not selectable.
I do agree with keeping your 3.31 gears with the SM465. Its got a low enough first gear that you should still have a pretty good crawl ratio offroad... I like this website for side by side comparisons on drive ratios, etc Gear Ratio Calculator
1985 CJ7 Project Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning
Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
Hmmmm a rear OX...then drop in a terra low in the 300 for like a 87:1 crawl. pick your line point and go....
Actually i had a shop do my OX beacuse i wanted a selectable and did not want to mess with the R&P set up. a lot of guys will say for the price you can regear while you are at it. i left my 3.55's in for the freeway end of the deal and love it but i wish i had a little lower gear with my axle's. you make up for that with the 465 i'm looking to do it with a 4:1
1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.
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I went with a Ected and I can't even tell it is there on the street although I can hear it on the trails. They don't pop bang or make any noises whatsoever. Would work great in a place like Florida, works well here in Montana. A switch that you have to mount on the dash works the locker, just flip it on when you need it and when you don't shut if off.
Okay another thought.....Since I dont offroad very much at all. Would it make any sense to just throw in a locker in the front and forgo the rear? Or would that just me stupid? Sorry I dont know all the precarious situations a locker will help in.
With 350 in CJ DO NOT PUT a Detroit in the rear. If you have sufficient power to cause any tire slippage at all when in a turn on black top, when you ease off the power for any reason and the unit unlocks, you better have all your lane options open because you are likely going to need more than one. Could not drive the 3B with one and pulled it-put the Powerlock back in. I really miss the Detroit off road, but an ARB is going to soon take its place.