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Unread 09-05-2011, 11:19 AM   #1
quade
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 46
Need some leak trouble shooting help

Here are a couple of pics of my Transfer case and Transmission. Its a 1984 CJ-7 with a AMC 360 paired with a T-5. I know about T-5 troubles but I'm strictly highway.

How hard/expensive is it to change these gaskets?

Do you see anything else?

Thanks,
Trae

image-337943752.jpg   image-3992446080.jpg   image-373915768.jpg   image-1811072554.jpg   image-192701852.jpg  

image-1836554481.jpg   image-3521289655.jpg  
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Unread 09-08-2011, 01:50 PM   #2
agear
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: norfolk, virginia
Posts: 1,790
I see it's motor oil on your bell housing. If it only goes up to your oil pan around the crankshaft it's probably your rear main seal. Is that oil running down from your transfer case fill plug if so you just need to tighten it up ofcourse
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 09-08-2011, 02:10 PM   #3
quade
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 46
The transfer case drip is from where I checked the level. It seems as if the leak is from around where the drive shafts come out
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Unread 09-08-2011, 04:01 PM   #4
Bakunin
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: State of Jefferson, California
Posts: 807
well

if your transfer case seals are bad, chances are you should replace both yokes too.

at least check the surfaces for scoring. no sense going through the time, hassle, expense to remove the seals just to install new ones on scored yokes.
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Unread 09-08-2011, 04:06 PM   #5
agear
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: norfolk, virginia
Posts: 1,790
in regards to the first picture . I guess it could be your shift rods seals but I would try the yoke seal first
image-1811072554.jpg   image-337943752.jpg   image-3521289655.jpg  
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 09-08-2011, 08:47 PM   #6
ejeeperguy
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Providence, Rhode Island
Posts: 641
The yoke seals run about 6 bucks.They are easily pried out with a screwdriver just becareful not to scratch up the housing.Use a rubber deadblow to tap them in using soft even taps around the seals. Check your seals on the other end and the uni joints.If you are dropping the shafts might as well...
the rear main seal is a pain.You have to drop the oil pan.to get to the rear seal housing.drop that down then you have to push the top half of the seal from around the shaft till you can grab it with some grippers.Putting the new half in is not easy. The new half goes in with a dish soap just make sure the seal doesn't spin, once in wipe any soap off and use some rtv on the sides of the housing but not to much.You might have to cut alittle bit of the seal it sometimes is longer than you need. There is a rubber oil pan seal I recommend you buy instead of the the crappy one Autozone sells it. Get the better one. Use locktite on all the bolts also.
As for the transfer case plates get some rubber gasket material and some rtv.Make your own.It is easy and cheap.You should also check your dif cover seals.They too get old and leak or seep . Ijust changed all the ones I just mentioned.I am restoring my 82 and feel your pain with your Jeep marking it's terratory everywhere.
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