Need a little guidence on powdercoating or not - Page 2

nicknoty · 11-20-2009, 08:47 AM

personally i don't care for powder coating as a durablity issue.

but if it won't see the trails go for it.

as far as por 15 it isn't a top coat and is uv reactive and will loose color my brother and i normally use appliance epoxy over it for a gloss shine

semaJ · 11-20-2009, 12:06 PM

I have read recently about using the por 15 instead of boiled linseed oil on the inside of the frame as it sprays easier. Also the eastwood products come in a spray can. has anyone had any experience with this?

nicknoty · 11-20-2009, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semaJ

I have read recently about using the por 15 instead of boiled linseed oil on the inside of the frame as it sprays easier. Also the eastwood products come in a spray can. has anyone had any experience with this?

i used the rust encapsulator both quart and can but if you have a gun the quart can be thinned and sprayed it is less durable then por 15

Chuckles0227 · 11-20-2009, 02:22 PM

quick question, when they powdercoat frames so they get the inside of the frame or no? I've only had two frames powdercoated so i don't know for sure if they coat the inside. Also can i spray boiled linseed over powdercoating?

**Hylke** · 11-20-2009, 03:29 PM

I see no reason to spray boiled linseed over a powdercoat finish. It would probably rinse right off in rain or watercrossing. You can use regular car polish on it though.
Yet on the inside off the chassis powdercoat won't come. It has to do with the fact that the powder sticks to the bare metal through an electric current until the metal is completely covered. The sprayed powder won't reach the inside. Maybe it will when using a nozzle and pulling it through the frame, but I haven't seen that being done yet.
Plus I've read some story that with powdercoat or other means of electrolysis (correct spelling?)(in other words, coating a metal object with a material through an electric current like galvanizing) the chassis will act like a faraday's cage, thus preventing the inside to attract the powder.

**rixcj** · 11-20-2009, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semaJ

I have read recently about using the por 15 instead of boiled linseed oil on the inside of the frame as it sprays easier. Also the eastwood products come in a spray can. has anyone had any experience with this?

To use Por 15, you're supposed to remove all loose rust. The POR won't stick to loose rust. So, unless you can get rid of the loose rust, it would be an expensive inner frame coating, that wouldn't adhere well.

Boiled linseed oil is cheap, and has a creeping quality to it. It's probably not going to last forever, either, because rust never sleeps, but it can't hurt, either. It's a bugger to do a thorough job with it, though...

All the times that I've used Eastwoods coating products, I've bought spray cans. I thought it was great.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuckles0227

quick question, when they powdercoat frames so they get the inside of the frame or no? I've only had two frames powdercoated so i don't know for sure if they coat the inside. Also can i spray boiled linseed over powdercoating?

Powdercoating does not get into the frame. Do you want to spray boiled linseed oil over the outside of a powdercoated frame?

If so, I wouldn't. The stuff's messy. Once it dries, it is tough to remove. That can be a blessing, or a curse.

Rich

**keith460** · 11-20-2009, 07:22 PM

As said, applying Boiled Linseed Oil is messy but worth it. I've been using it for years on bare steel parts that have constant exposure to the elements. I even have a 1962 reel push mower form my Dad that's been sitting outside for twenty + years in the rain, snow, heat and damp weather as a antique leaning up against my barn shed. It still looks today as it did when I first applied Boiled Linseed Oil to it back then and never reapplied the oil either. No rust or paint deterioration and the wooden handles still look new also. I even paint by brush all U-joints, ball joints and whatever cannot be powder coated in the oven. And yes it is very tough, if not impossible, to remove Boiled Linseed Oil once it has dried. I still have some spots on the outside of my painted frame that dried and now cannot be removed using mineral spirits but I read that carb cleaner may take it off.

People who think negatively about powder coating probably have aftermarket accessories that were not properly prepped before the powder was applied. Manufactures are not going to sand blast then coat their products as it would be to expensive so they just clean them some and apply the powder. It's just like a paint job, prep work is everything if you want something to be durable and last long and it will if it is done correctly. Stainless Steel accessories like mirrors, brackets, battery trays and so on that I buy, I will sand blast them first and then apply powder coat semi-gloss black to cover them up because I simply do not like the S.S. look. By sand blasting parts before powder, it makes the surface rougher and allows the powder to flow out and adhere better just like sanding needs to do be done to either wood, metal or any other surface before applying primer then paint. It's what makes coatings stick and not bubble up, peel or flake off later on. Powder coatings are plastic resins ground up into a fine powder and applied by means of a static charge to get them to adhere to a metal alloy surface. The powdered part is then put into an oven where heat melts the plastic and allows it flow evenly onto the surface and attaching itself to all the little microscopic hills and valleys (sand blasting does this). It is then removed from the heat and cools to harden the plastic onto the surface....done!

kp900 · 11-20-2009, 09:52 PM

An easy way to apply the boiled linseed oil is to buy a cheap engine cleaner and hook it to you compressor. Run the hose into the can and have at it. I had one side of the frame up in the air and started high and let the excess run down the frame rails.

Chuckles0227 · 11-20-2009, 10:47 PM

Alright, well my fame is powdercoated, so that means the inside of the frame is bare metal? if that is true then how would i apply boiled linseed to the inside? do i just get some linseed oil, thin it and spray it with a garden sprayer till it seems like the entire inside frame is coated?

**rixcj** · 11-21-2009, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuckles0227

Alright, well my fame is powdercoated, so that means the inside of the frame is bare metal? if that is true then how would i apply boiled linseed to the inside? do i just get some linseed oil, thin it and spray it with a garden sprayer till it seems like the entire inside frame is coated?

The inside of your frame is just how it was when you brought it to the powdercoater.

How you coat the inside of the frame, using boiled linseed oil, is left only to your imagination.

Throughout this thread, I, and others, have explained how we did it. You'd definitely have to thin it out (quite a bit, IMO) to get it to spray out of a garden sprayer.

I thought about trying that, but I didn't think that thinning it THAT much, would give the same amount of protection. Maybe it does, if you give it several coats, I don't know...

Let us know how you make out!

Rich

P.S. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably break down and buy some Heavy Duty Anti Rust, from Eastwood. They also sell an applicator gun, and extension wand.

It'd probably cost a total of just over $100.00, but after all I've been through with this frame of mine, it'd be worth it. I spent a ton of time messing with the boiled linseed oil.

Here's a thread, between Eastwood's site, and myself...

http://forum.eastwood.com/showthread.php?t=4956

Their site is pretty good...you guys might want to save it...

blownsvtlightni · 11-21-2009, 12:43 PM

so if you get the frame sandblasted you could install the linseed in the frame and have the outside powder coated? would the linseed after being cured on the inside of the frame be affected by the high temps of the powder coat curing? I have been considering powdercoating for my frame when I do my resto on my cj7. my Tool box (snap on) is powder coated and the finish is awesome and strong, I think it would be great for the frame. What is the average cost of having the frame blasted and powdercoated? anyone in Houston/south Texas area use these guys Allied Powder Coating - Metal Finishing - Outdoor Furniture Repair Texas,Oklahoma, Louisiana, Houston, Dallas, San Antonio, Austin, my frame seems to be in pretty good shape for being almost 30 years old and I don't think will require much other than the sanding and powder coating.

**keith460** · 11-21-2009, 01:03 PM

Powder coat the frame first then, apply linseed oil to the inside. It cost about $600 here in Eastern Pa to have the frame sand blasted and then powder coated.

**Mike Romain** · 11-21-2009, 01:35 PM

I stripped my frame and use a rust converter on it, then a rubber coat. 9 years later I had a really nice coating still with paper thin if any metal under it. I could stick a screwdriver through it anywhere, it rotted from the inside out.

This time, I got a frame already stripped and coated. The tails were opened to put new shackle nuts in so I used a cold galvanizing compound from Crown and blew it in every hole then finished by blowing a whole can in from the tails. Had spray coming out all the holes. I am hoping this will last for a while. I now have a compressor and figure I can get a wand for a paint pot to respray it in there next year just to be sure.

**Hylke** · 11-21-2009, 03:03 PM

And if going for the powdercoat finish, don't forget to tape off the threads of the shocks mounts and put bolts in the shackle hanger inside threads. You could and should use a tap to get those threads clean again, but it'll go much better when not having to clean up the powdercoat first.

semaJ · 11-23-2009, 02:48 PM

So I did some playing around this weekend and a local shop here in raleigh nc says $150-$200 ish for sand blasting only, guy on the phone said $100 per hour and sid they did a chevelle frame and some parts just the other day and it took a 2 hours. He figured since the CJ frame is shorter then less time. And for the whole shebang sand blasting and powder coating it would run aprox $350. I thought that sounded super cheap and am going to have him sandblast then have my friend who is opening a powder coating shop do the powder for materials with my hope of getting it all done for under $250. I will be sure to let everyone know how everything comes together. Thanks for all the input you guys are really helpful!!!