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Unread 02-26-2010, 02:16 PM   #16
IJHope
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 10
Thanks for all the input guys, As far as where ill be driving it, itll mainly be a summer/light trails/beach ect... No huge rock crawling for this rig. Ive got a MASSIVE list of things to sort through and inspect inside and out on this thing and all the info on here has definitley helped.

As of now my main concerns going to look at the thing are
- Definitly give the frame a twice over, Checking for deep set rust especially around the rear supension pieces.
- Give it a good test drive, diffrent gears speeds watching rpms and looking out for any wandering of the front end.
- Shackel length on the front and rear is clearly a HUGE aspect. so ill be measuring those and making a judgement.
- And as long is that is all good and checks out i can start looking at the details of the rig!

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Unread 02-26-2010, 02:20 PM   #17
CjAl
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1980 CJ7 
 
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even if it has the long shackles they are cheap to replace. they don't give you that much lift anyways

the worst rust to look for is the last 6 inches of frame. there is no good drain holes behind the bump up for the rear axle so they rot out
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Unread 02-26-2010, 02:21 PM   #18
IJHope
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So worst comes to absolute worst suspension wise id be looking to replace shackles and possibly a set of new leaf springs?
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Unread 02-26-2010, 02:23 PM   #19
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Yep did miss that... read it a bit ago and came back and posted the extra pics. I also saw a dark spot or two above the rocker plate and looked like corrosion.
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Unread 02-26-2010, 02:25 PM   #20
CjAl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IJHope View Post
So worst comes to absolute worst suspension wise id be looking to replace shackles and possibly a set of new leaf springs?
well it doesn't have enough lift for the tires. you see how close they are to the fenders. offroad the tires wold chew the fenders up and sit them out. especially being glass. personally I think 36's are too much. I'd just go with a 33 x14.5 and leave the springs
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Unread 02-26-2010, 06:00 PM   #21
IJHope
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Ill be there around 4 pm tommorow. i plan on spending ALOT of time underneath it and doing quite a number of measurments......

Outside of all that, i feel as though ive completely overlooked the motor... it has the stock 258. Seeing as these things can be rebuilt like its nobodys business. Any places in perticular i should look/listen for noises or leaks?
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Unread 02-26-2010, 06:49 PM   #22
lucdog
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1980 CJ5 
 
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Location: , Il.
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Take a piece of paper and a pencil to write down speeds and tach. readings. I would also take a GPS to correctly check speed. It probley would also help to have a friend help (saftey).Check the glass front clip for interferance with the front tires when opening. See how good the instlation is on the tub to frame, look for quality!


bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
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Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 02-26-2010, 08:14 PM   #23
IJHope
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Great idea about the speeds and cross checking it with a GPS. Definitly plan on doing that one.
Cant wait to get down there and see it tommorow. Ill be sure to let you all know how it goes and if im rollin back in a new 79'
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Unread 02-27-2010, 08:19 PM   #24
IJHope
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Welllllll, That was a complete bust... the guy must have sent me old pictures. Body was beat like crazy, seperating everywhere. wherever there was metal there was rust and LOTS of it.....

Oh well.... everything happenes for a reason, anyway ive still got 2 more to see ;D
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Unread 02-28-2010, 12:20 PM   #25
BagusJeep
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Location: Bali, Indonesia
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Those wheel arches are too narrow for the tyres which I take as a sign of a half complete build.

It is tempting to jack up a Jeep and insert some large tyres which gives it a certain look but there is a lot more work to do to make it perform on road, such as gearing, power, steering and bodywork. The bodywork is easy and relatively cheap and required in most parts of the world so why not?

I was passed by one today in Port of Spain in Trinidad which appeared to be similair to your spec. I say passed but if I had broken into a trot I could have overtaken it as the gearing and engine power did not seem to match the wheels and jacked suspension and it must have been a pig to drive on road. It did not have wheel arch flares but the owner had invested in a semi-camouflage paint scheme and netting.

It looked nice.

The price is right IF the chassis is straight and not riddled with rot. As the back end has been replaced it may have had rust issues in the past, most have, so make sure it has been properly fixed.
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