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Unread 02-24-2010, 09:37 PM   #1
IJHope
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 10
Need Help scoping out a possible new CJ5!

Hi all, im new here to the furoms but after this weekend hope to be a regular here!

This saturday i am going to take a look at a 79 cj5, the owner doesnt know a whole lot about it becuase it was bought from his friend who actually built it. With that said he only knows so much about the details on what is truly built into the jeep.

What i know for sure is...

-atleast 3 inch suspension lift
-Possibly 1-2 inch body lift
-Fiberglass tub as well as front end
-Front and rear tow setups
-36 inch mickey Thompsons
-It has the normal 258 I6 with a single barrel YF (that needs a good cleaning)


The only problems im worried about is the gearing due to the 36 inches of rubber he has on there, but he has driven it a 4+ hour drive at 65 mph and said it was veery steady with low rpms so i have ther feeling the past owner may had already of swapped up gearing.

He also said he had a 2 barrel carb that fit it but "wasnt workin so great" that he would just throw in.

I thought id post up on here and see what you all had to say, any suggestions, warnings, things to look out for would be extremely appreciated.

Im going to try and upload a picture or two in just a minute so you all can get an idea.......Correction. i believe i attached them correctly.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ugar/jeep3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ugar/jeep2.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ugar/jeep1.jpg

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Unread 02-24-2010, 09:58 PM   #2
thantos858
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1974 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Santa Maria
Posts: 1,535
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJHope View Post
Hi all, im new here to the furoms but after this weekend hope to be a regular here!

This saturday i am going to take a look at a 79 cj5, the owner doesnt know a whole lot about it becuase it was bought from his friend who actually built it. With that said he only knows so much about the details on what is truly built into the jeep.

What i know for sure is...

-atleast 3 inch suspension lift
-Possibly 1-2 inch body lift
-Fiberglass tub as well as front end
-Front and rear tow setups
-36 inch mickey Thompsons
-It has the normal 258 I6 with a single barrel YF (that needs a good cleaning)


The only problems im worried about is the gearing due to the 36 inches of rubber he has on there, but he has driven it a 4+ hour drive at 65 mph and said it was veery steady with low rpms so i have ther feeling the past owner may had already of swapped up gearing.

He also said he had a 2 barrel carb that fit it but "wasnt workin so great" that he would just throw in.

I thought id post up on here and see what you all had to say, any suggestions, warnings, things to look out for would be extremely appreciated.

Im going to try and upload a picture or two in just a minute so you all can get an idea.......Correction. i believe i attached them correctly.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ugar/jeep3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ugar/jeep2.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ugar/jeep1.jpg
For you to post pics you need to have I think 50 posts or be upgraded.

Take a jack, jack stands and white chaulk or some blue painters tape. Jack the rear up and mark where the drive shaft is alone with the tire count how many turns the shaft takes for 1 rotation of the tire should give you a real close ratio of the gears.

Stuff to look for would be rust in the frame around the rear and where the suspension parts are. Just go over everything as closely as you can looking for wear, damaged parts, wet spots, to much grease/road grim, etc.

The carbs aren't to hard to clean and rebuild if you have a decent size bench to work on with some sides so you don't lose any parts.
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Unread 02-25-2010, 10:07 AM   #3
JoonHoss
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2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington State
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you really need a whole lot more info, and more specific pics

just an FYI- if the rpms were low at 65, that would indicate too high (numerically low) gearing and too large tires






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Unread 02-25-2010, 10:27 AM   #4
Chewtoy
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Post Falls, Idaho
Posts: 870
Looks like a nice rig from a distance. :-) the rear shackle looks pretty long, might check to see if his "suspension lift" is just really long shackles, which could be bad if you plan on much road driving with it. Can't see the fronts, but it is worth checking.

How much is he asking compared to similar CJs in the area?
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Unread 02-25-2010, 10:40 AM   #5
IJHope
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 10
Thanks for all the input guys
Hoss - Im definitly going to be driving it around a good bit before i think about buying it. where should i look for rpm ranges to hit if it had per say "perfect gearing" for the tires ect...

Chewtoy- About how long should the rear shackles be par- acceptable road driving ect.. what problems would that cause? And compared to similar CJ's hes asking absolutley nothing. The guy bought it from a friend a couple monthes back and has no idea what he owns.
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Unread 02-25-2010, 10:43 AM   #6
JoonHoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IJHope View Post
...where should i look for rpm ranges to hit if it had per say "perfect gearing" for the tires ect....
that is a VERY debatable question with a LOT of variables, but start here

http://www.4wheelonline.com/images/gear-chart.gif

Hoss
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Unread 02-25-2010, 10:57 AM   #7
IJHope
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Hahaha i had a feeling i was asking a single question with a million answers.

I found a set of 4" lift leaf springs on craigslist brand new for super cheap. so im thinking worst comes to worst with suspension id just swap them out? Would i have to buy new shackles or anything?

and please lease forgive the slight ignorance , ive always thought about diving in on a CJ like this but im still not too educated on the fine details. The helps more than appreciated!
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Unread 02-25-2010, 11:00 AM   #8
JoonHoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IJHope View Post
...and please lease forgive the slight ignorance , ive always thought about diving in on a CJ like this but im still not too educated on the fine details. The helps more than appreciated!
and the 'million dollar' question is...

is he asking a 'million dollars' for it?

Hoss
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It's hard to say no to yoo-hoo, the name literally beckons...

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Unread 02-25-2010, 11:01 AM   #9
IJHope
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No where near it im happy to say. i should be able to snatch it up for a solid bit under 2000
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Unread 02-25-2010, 12:28 PM   #10
Chewtoy
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:<2K, Nice

Explaining this will keep it straight in my mind and give others the opportunity to correct me

Well a lot of folks have lots of opinions on shackle length, mind you I am fairly new (again) to jeeps, I had one years ago, and now have one again. From what I have been reading on this forum the common thought seems to be keep the shackles (both front and back) to < 1" of lift over stock.

So the stock shackles were 3" on center bolt hole to bolt hole for '76-'83 CJ5s. If you use a 4" shackle you are 1" longer, but since there is a shackel on only one end of the spring you get 1/2" of lift. Thus you can use a 5" shackel and still be fairly safe because it only gives you 1" of lift over a 3" shackel.

Safe may be strong wording, it is said that when you go beyond the 1" of lift due to shackle on the front, you can get a lot of wandering in the steering due to the shackel flexing etc. On a purely dirt rig this may not be a big deal because you are not going fast. On a rig that sees a lot of pavement time, sloppy steering = bad in my mind. I am not sure what negative effects of long shackels on the back are if any. Hopefully someone else will chime in and explain that part for the both of us.

Cheers!
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Unread 02-25-2010, 04:03 PM   #11
IJHope
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 10
Awesome! think im finally grasping a little of this stuff..... before this whole jeep nonsense i've rebuilt bikes and roe motocross for years. Guess i just had to make the move up to something a tad..... bigger shall we say?
Ill make sure to make the measurements on the shackles front and back.

Is there any way of telling by looking a the leaf springs how much lift they are providing?
Like i stated before i found a set of new 4" leafs for it for super cheap, if it would be better for it i might
pull the longer shackles off and just use the larger leafs....... good idea there?
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Unread 02-25-2010, 08:52 PM   #12
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Click free for you.
Carefull when the owners put the armor plate on... often that is hiding rust below.
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Unread 02-26-2010, 09:07 AM   #13
JoonHoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
...Carefull when the owners put the armor plate on... often that is hiding rust below.
it's all 'glass!





Hoss
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It's hard to say no to yoo-hoo, the name literally beckons...

Don't mind me, I'm just another FNG around here...
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Unread 02-26-2010, 09:45 AM   #14
CjAl
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1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 658
NEVER go more then 1" longer shackle length. the rear isn't as crucial a the front. long shackles on the front twist the axle forward causing negative castor and the jeep will wander all over the road.

That's a good price, couldn't touch a jeep around here for that.

I'm not a fan of glass bodies but to each their own. one hit and it shatters. Also some of the bodies like 4wd hardware already have 2" of lift built into them. Whatever you got on that jeep it's not enough for those tires, there is no fender clearence. Remember though the CJ5 is very short and driveline angles become a problem very fast when lifting it and you have a driveshaft that may be less then 18" long
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Unread 02-26-2010, 10:33 AM   #15
Chewtoy
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Post Falls, Idaho
Posts: 870
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJHope View Post
Is there any way of telling by looking a the leaf springs how much lift they are providing?
Like i stated before i found a set of new 4" leafs for it for super cheap, if it would be better for it i might
pull the longer shackles off and just use the larger leafs....... good idea there?
I don't know of anyway to look at a leaf pack and tell, but someone else on the board might. Beware the 4" packs for super cheap, word has it "spring" is only a figure of speach for those, "rock" is tends to be a better discription.

So there are really a few decisions you want to have out of the way before you start throwing parts at this rig. Start with where do you want to drive it? Are you going to turn it into a rock crawling trailer queen or are you going to drive it every day on a 120 mile round trip to school and back? Maybe somewhere in between? How big of tires do you want to run on it, thus how much lift do you need? Are you going to do lots of mud (High HP) or slow trails (high low end torque)? Maybe just a Mall Crawler?

Need to think these things through before you start spending money or it will drive you into bankruptcy in very short order. Heck at this point you don't even own it yet. You might drive it and decide it is not for you. Don't get me wrong I love my '76 CJ5 and it provides a ton of experience and fun for the family, so I am not discouraging you from gettting it, just encouraging you to think about where you want to take it so you can make good decisions about the parts you throw at it.

Use the search function on this board, it is a vast resource of knowlege and opinion. I don't post much here, but from the search feature, I have replaced my ignition, alternator, wireing system, fuel tank, dashboard, gauges, carb, and working on a 4" lift (just the short list). There is some amazing knowlege on here, take advantage of it.

Cheers
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