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Unread 01-23-2009, 09:56 AM   #1
suddog
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 48
Need help with fuel system wires/vac lines, BEER ON ME!

Thanks for those that have replied with suggestions. I took pictures of all the lines and wires cut from my carb and systems. If anyone can give any info on where all this stuff goes I would greatly appreciate it. I have looked over the schematics but without knowing what the components are I have no idea where they go. The previous owner wasnt too smart I think. If you look at one of the pictures he put a spark plug to plug one of the vac lines..... I couldnt make this up, just look at the pic. I would be willing to buy anyone a case of beer for pictures of their carb and wires so I can mimick mine. I bought this CJ for my wife, she has put up with 3 deployments from the military and I think she deserves a toy of her own that I can work on!!!!! I will be leaving for my 4th and FINAL deployment and I want to get this thing working decent for her, it does run believe it or not! Thanks again for all the help, Vic

jeep1-copy.jpg   jeep3.jpg   jeep4.jpg   jeep5.jpg   jeep6.jpg  

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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:08 AM   #2
LT1CJ7
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Wow, someone was a butcher.
Looks like the computer harness was cut completely out from under the hood.
Must have been too lazy to unclip all the sensors and dissect the harness.
If you don't have any emission laws there, I would remove all the remaining connectors, switches, plugs and ect. and add a MC2100 and be done.
If you have emissions, Maybe add an injection kit.
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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:22 AM   #3
John Strenk
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First Bookmark this site:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/

It will help you understand everything under the hood. there.

Just how far do you want to restore this jeep? Let us know. If you just want the essential hooked up or the whole computer stuff back in.?

I would go with the first choice

Start with this vacuum hose schematic:


it has most of the parts in thier right location.

Little more details here: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vactails.htm

************************************************** **************************
In your first picture. the electrical connector looks like it goes to your Sol-Vac solenoid

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/solvac.htm

the lower "Notconnected circle is your EGR valve:

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/egrvalve.htm
and
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/cto.htm

************************************************** ***********************************************
In your 4the picture

That thing wth the spark plug looks like the remians of the PCV solenoid that was deleted:


The electrical connection in the picture looks like your Wide Open Throttle connector connected to the computer:



Yes that is the electric choke.
The orange wire in the back ground if the manifold heater suprised it's still connected. They are tied together in a round about way.

All those wires coming out of the back of the carburator is for the stepper motor that controls the mixture.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/major.htm#init


In your second picture one connector is for the upsteam down stream solenoids

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/threesol.htm

The smaller circle is your backup lights, park/neutral switch and 4WD light.

Last edited by John Strenk; 01-23-2009 at 10:48 AM..
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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:31 AM   #4
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
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You can hook all the stuff back up, solder wires, trouble shoot sensors, and then find what is worn out with stuff or if you have a few bucks can change a few items and simplify to the point you can do work your self.

I would suggest a Weber Carb 32/36 or 34/34, $300, and a Summit MutiSpark Igntion CDI (best type igntion we can put on CJ) $115 cat sale right now, Used Ford E Coil/mount/conn & pigtail/ & extra used connector for distributor $4, New TeamRush style cap/rotar/adapter and new Spark Plug Wires $85, Some Brass NPT Plumbing Fittings to plug sensor holes in manifold $.50 ea. The sensor hole plugs will also need some thread sealeant to seal them up and 1-2 days to set up.. So for $500 you can improve your performance aobut 20 to 30% mostlikely and make it very simple.

Oh.... there is a low pressure electric fuel pump works great for the Weber carb $80 and recommend that over using the fuel pressure regulator and stock mechanical fuel pump. Mechancal fuel pump will come out and be caped off.

You are in georgia and the cooolant heated manifold is most likley engough. there is also an electric heater under the carb that comes on for the first 15 minutes till warmed up... There is a coolant switch on the intake manifold that interupts ground path to a relay.... WE WANT TO KEEP THIS RELAY AND CAN TEST IT WITH A MULTITESTER. WE CAN SHOW WHAT THIS LOOKS LIKE AND HOW TO TEST IT AND WE WILL LEAVE THIS ONE IN Easy to hook back up if need I added it to mine.

If this is of interest let us know and I can show you some links where you can read about the team rush, the CDI would have all new wires with it and mounts on the passenger fender, and the coil. PCV, breather system for the valve cover and Distributor ADvance would be the only vacuum lines hooked up.. Use your stock distributor (most likely needs lubrication too) and leave the stock DuraSpark, computer, and wires still there.

Oh forgot you can make a plate and cap off the EGR valve with replacement gasket.







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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:43 AM   #5
Fjguercio
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How well does you CJ currently run, I guess not too well and in limp mode

How many miles on CJ
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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:48 AM   #6
Bakunin
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Fjguercio, your engine compartment is amazing! A real gem...except for your battery tie-down.
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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:55 AM   #7
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakunin View Post
Fjguercio, your engine compartment is amazing! A real gem...except for your battery tie-down.
Great minds think alike. I have the same one on my CJ. Same color also.
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Unread 01-23-2009, 10:58 AM   #8
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakunin View Post
Fjguercio, your engine compartment is amazing! A real gem...except for your battery tie-down.
Thank you... about the engine bay..

The stock battery clip in the front holds the battery down. The bungee cord is secondary. An area I would like to improve also with out drilling holes. The combo actually works pretty well for my use. HD wheeling and the stock clip in front alone may not hold imo.

I have since put soft fuel line motor to fender regulator flex caused leaks in fittings, added TeamRush Cap, Ford E Coil, CDI Ignition. I am going to add the rotary fuel pump. So new pics in spring.

good eye & thanks,
Fred


Hahadndda.... John just saw you note after I got done typing....
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Unread 01-23-2009, 11:04 AM   #9
LT1CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakunin View Post
Fjguercio, your engine compartment is amazing! A real gem...except for your battery tie-down.
I would watch that hard line from your fuel pump to the regulator.
A hard line that's fixed on one end with a moving & vibrating engine on the other end, will eventually fail causing a leak to a potentially bad outcome.
Sorry, It's not a rag, Just a smart and safer suggestion. Nice clean Job.
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Unread 01-23-2009, 11:15 AM   #10
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1CJ7 View Post
I would watch that hard line from your fuel pump to the regulator.
A hard line that's fixed on one end with a moving & vibrating engine on the other end, will eventually fail causing a leak to a potentially bad outcome.
Sorry, It's not a rag, Just a smart and safer suggestion. Nice clean Job.


I mentioned that in the note right above yours, piece of soft fuel line was added. Bottom fittings on fuel regulator kept getting leaks actually. You are correct.

Mike Romain & few others also notes the soft fuel line from Fender to carb is not the best idea and some Insurance Co. may have issue with it. Mike and few of these guys know their stuff and say the Insurance Co. like hard line above the engine. I may change to hard line there but need a much better pipe bender than the one I have or cure for my carparl tunnel .... lost lots of hand strenght.

Funny Insurance/they object because hard line still has 3 soft line splices & 5 extra clips to put fuel filter in right above the hot exhaust. The hotest spot in the engine bay. So not sold the stock way is safer. MY CJ will get 2-3k miles per year. Every few years could change out the 2.5 ft fuel line with filter and consider it pretty good. We bounced this around too a few months ago...... last time I used these pictures I think.

Thanks for the nice clean job.
Did work prior to JF, wish I knew

Fred
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Unread 01-23-2009, 02:41 PM   #11
suddog
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You guys are all bad asses! Thanks so much for the input.... I have read all the threads about carbs...so what is the real answer? If I want to remove this carb and reinstall a newer model what would I go with? Fjguercio I am digging your setup, how much would all that cost to do? I am thinking that if I am going to spend any money getting this back to a normal state I might as well upgrade...right?
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Unread 01-23-2009, 02:42 PM   #12
suddog
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John and Fjguercio, Thanks for the pics. IM me your paypal ID and Ill send you guys some beer money. Thanks again!
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Unread 01-23-2009, 03:18 PM   #13
Bakunin
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hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Great minds think alike. I have the same one on my CJ. Same color also.
I'll have to hunt one down!
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Unread 01-23-2009, 03:54 PM   #14
molsenice
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I want my engine compartment to look that good - I can't seam to stayoutta the mud n crud long enough

Nice job fellas
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Unread 01-23-2009, 04:54 PM   #15
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suddog View Post
You guys are all bad asses! Thanks so much for the input.... I have read all the threads about carbs...so what is the real answer? If I want to remove this carb and reinstall a newer model what would I go with? Fjguercio I am digging your setup, how much would all that cost to do? I am thinking that if I am going to spend any money getting this back to a normal state I might as well upgrade...right?
Dear Suddog,

The prices are in post #4. Would run about $500 and that would be a new Ignition & all new wires, New Carb mtd & Linkage, used upgraded Coil, some extra grounds, and recommend that new style fuel pump and your might be tired any way. Simplifies and should run better than even a good running stock set up. So that would be close to $600 with plugs, vacuum lines, pcv valve, fuel line and the Fuel Pump.

There are guys selling the webers used that could save you $200 if needed to.

As you put in your PM if you want to do that if in your price range should work out very well. Let us know. I can post up some more info links and where to get. I would even have a hard time with that mess in your pics. If you want the stock stuff back John S. and others are your guys. The path I took, Takes all the junk out yet the local jeep shop would still know how everthing works and how its hooked up.

My local Jeep Dealer wanted me to pull in the garage last summer and the owner came out to look under the hood. I had some questions and so did the mechanics.

I would still like to know how many miles on your CJ??????

Regards,
Fred
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