Okay, well let me start out explaining the situation:
I was driving home from school yesterday, in my 69 Jeep CJ5, top off and crusing at like 45. I heard my front left hub start to squeek with rotations, so I started to slow down, to around 30, and I felt the wheel start to wobble and looked out the side at the front left tire and sure enough, it was wobbling side to side, so I slowed down even more to a crawl, and could hear the front left wheel crunching and popping as it rotated. Got out of the jeep, walked around to the front and looked at the hub, there was a gap in the rotor as if the tire was about to fall off. I called the tow truck, got it home and rolled my jeep into the driveway. Jacked it up, and pulled off the lugs and tire, and at this point the whole hub is wobbling around. Pulled off the brake rotor next, and then I unscrewed to bolts out of the locking hub- The thing that has the knob that you turn from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive - and pulled that off. When I did, lots of little pieces of metal and rings came out of it. I wiped all the grease and bits of metal off of the shaft, and this is what it looks like now.
I need to know what you guys think is broken, what I need to remove, and what I need to replace. I honestly have no other place to look for advice, and I'm an 18 year old student so I need my Jeep back up and running ASAP.. Any questions you guys have, I will work with you so I can figure out to fix my CJ
Thanks ahead of time, and ANY advice is appreciated!
Number one you have drums not rotors. I woudl clean it thoroughly for inspection and IF the shaft is still good I would replace all the bearings, races and hub assembly including the locking hub. You maybe able to clean the hub and knock the races out of it and reuse it IF there is no damage to it. I would also strongly suggest disassembling the other side for a thorough inspection and servicing.
Careful your character's showing
Well, from the picture, I can see you destroyed the outer bearing. Also looks like part of the inner lockout is still on the axle end. Take apart the other side and compare part by part. You should need both hub bearings and seals, and the lockout hub insides at the axle end.
I am not familiar with the 69 in particular, but the bearings aside, most hub assemblies have a but that holds the assembly on to the spindle. It is an odd shaped nut that takes a special type of socket (you will recognize it, probable about 1/4" to 3/8" thick and about 1 3/4" diameter), this should not be over-tightened as it will bind the outer wheel bearing but it also has a retainer/lock washer type thing that will keep the nut from backing off. That is probably what fell out. If that nut comes lose, there is nothing to hold the hub on the spindle and that could lead to your wobble problem and since they are drum and not discs, the drum will slide right off, as opposed to a rotor which will still be held on, though slightly, by the caliper.
I agree with the others, get new wheel bearings, pack them with new grease, clean off the spindle and reassemble the hub. If you dont have a good shop manual, get one and make sure that you have all the parts. It is not a terribly difficult task once you have done it once. You may have to get a few new tools, but nothing expensive. Once you have finished, do the same thing on the otherside. You dont want to have new bearings on one side and not the other.
I don't know if it'll help you with identification or not, but take a look at my build thread....I just tore my Dana 30 apart today. I agree with only in a jeep cj, it looks like your lockout is destroyed.
__________________ Fred Retired Army Guy
High Plains Drifter
1976 CJ-5 Lime Green
Black Wellington Vinyl Bench Seats
258 I-6 1bbl
3.54:1 Open Gears
Okay guys, well I got the lockout and old bearings off of the spindle now. I am going to go to o'reilly's tomorrow to pick up my new timken bearings. I am going to repack them and reassmble the hub, but first I need to know what order the parts go on? Does it go: inner bearing, hub, nut, outter bearing? Or inner bearing, hub, outter bearing, then nut? If anybody can help, thanks, I'm almost done with the fix!
And yes, I know I could dissassemble the other side and compare, but I don't have a way of jacking up the other side
but I don't have a way of jacking up the other side
Place a jack stand, (a new set is about 40 to 60 bucks at Harbor freight or any local Auto parts store) or in a pinch, a large timber, old rim, or anything that will hold the weight and not crumble (no cinder blocks). Move jack to other side and or place support under that side too.
Replace both races in the hub, pack the inner bearing and put it in the rear of the rear of the hub, install the seal, clean the spindle and the brake stuff and then slide the hub onto the spindle, pack the outer bearing and install, install the first washer (the smaller one), install the first nut and torque it properly ( I think I read in another thread it's 35lbs, but verify that before you do it), spin the hub a few times and recheck the torque, install the second washer and the second nut and torque properly (same thread said 85 lbs I think but verify), fold the tabs of the second washer over one flat on each side of the outer nut. Reinstall the locking assembly and go. I woudl also repack the other side to be certain it is fine.
Careful your character's showing
Wish I lived closer, we could get you up and running pretty quickly, and you would learn something during the process.
To start with, get yourself a package of paper towels and some cans of brake cleaner and clean things up.
We need SIZED pictures, crop out the crap, we need to see the INSIDE of the hub.
Your lockout is shot, part of it is stuck on the axle, it's done, no way to repair it.
Jack, JACK STANDS! (Safety First!)
The guys with interchange books or check the parts web sites for part numbers that are the same.
I have a front drum brake assembly here, backing plates and all, Spindles, Hubs, everything but lock outs.
They are yours if they will fit your application, just send me an address to ship them to.
You will need new bearings,
Spindle bearings (Drum brake spindle bearings, seals, spacers) are different than ones for Disc Brakes,
You will need inner and outer wheel bearings, and you will need the races.
Go to AutoZone and get TIMKEN bearings. Don't mess with off brand 'Import' bearings, it's not worth the effort, money and time to use 'China' bearings.
Get yourself some good wheel bearing grease, Valvoline 'DuraLube' is what I like the best low budget,
If you don't mind the $5 extra dollars, go with something like Mobile 1 grease.
Lay everything out on a board, start cleaning.
Take the parts off/apart in ORDER, lay them out,
Clean them up IN ORDER... Lay them out on CLEAN paper towels.
Get your self a repair manual, this will show you everything you need to know.
The Jeep supply places, (Quadratech, 4WD hardware, ect.) have exploded views that will show you how things go together also, they are good resources if you are internet literate...
Nothing beats a good paper manual, nothing will replace that...
Most parts store guys can show you how to, and have the tools, to install the new races in the hub, if it's not totaled (Clean it up, GET PICTURES!)
They will show you how to install the wheel seal, pack bearings, ect. also.
Just don't expect them to do it while the counter is 3 deep with customers, so 'Off Times' are best to beg for help.
Taking a 12 pack of beer will get you a lot of help too! (VERY cheap labor and tool rental!)
Check a link in my signature line, the one for waterproofing, it will have a bunch of information you might use while doing this, pictures of the parts, assembly procedures, ect.
PEOPLE HAVE SENT ME FREE PARTS BEFORE, I'LL HONOR THEM BY SENDING YOU FREE PARTS IF YOU NEED THEM, SO LET ME KNOW!
REMEMBER, THIS WAS PAID FORWARD BY THE GUYS ON THE FORUM,
SO DON'T 'THANK' ME, THANK THEM!
I'm just returning the favor if you can use any of this stuff...
This is the part I can supply, along with the spindle if it's ruined...
Your lockouts are no longer available, and you can't find parts for them unless you search E-bay, and then there is no guarantee you will find what you want...
If you use the wheel bearing nut kit above, you can use lockouts like these, and a set is under $100 in some places.
Mile Marker seems to have better fit and finish than Warn, but either will work.
Get the 'Premium' type, don't bother with the 'Standard' units... Waste of time and money.
I can supply this spindle from a '73 CJ-5 and I *THINK* it might fit your application.
Spindle, Hubs, everything you might need besides lock outs I have laying here if they will fit your application,
So do some checking or ask some questions on the forum.
It's yours for the asking.
This gives you an IDEA of what you MAY need, not a complete list by any means, but I will be glad to donate what I have laying around here.
My donor parts are from a '73 CJ-5 with drums, and I have everything, steering knuckles, stub axles, spindles, hubs, backing plates for brakes, drums, everything but the lockouts.
It should go :
Inner bearing - hub - outer bearing - (mine had a washer in here) - nut - washer - nut
The inner bearing and race get installed into the wheelbearing hub first, along with the outer race. Then the inner seal goes on. That assembly is installed onto the spindle followed by the outer bearing, nut, washer, nut followed by the lockout assembly.
Start with the SPINDLE BEARING.
The spindle bearing is on the INSIDE of the spindle, next to the axle.
There are seals and thrust washers you need to install at the same time.
This is your spindle sub assembly.
Again, if you check the thread in my signature line, you will see the spindle and where the bearing is located.
Keep in mind, the Drum Brake versions REQUIRE you use a BRONZE thrust washer in the spindle bearing/seal assembly, and if you can't locate one, and have a couple you can have.
The hub will get the bearing 'Races', you drive them in and out.
If you check the thread in my signature line, you will see grooves in the hub (once cleaned out) that allow you to drive the old races out of the hub.
You use a driving tool to put the new races in the hub.
The driving tool gives you a better chance to get the races in squarely.
Grease the inside of the hub, the races,
Then pack the INSIDE wheel bearing,
Drop it on the race,
And install the INSIDE wheel bearing seal into the hub.
This is your sub assembly finished, set it aside.
I usually pack both inside and outside bearings at the same time because I don't want to get grease everywhere twice, so keep that OUTSIDE bearing wrapped up and clean until you need it.
When you go to assemble the hub onto the spindle,
You put the bearing in, the small washer, the preload nut,
The large washer, the lock nut,
Then you bend the large washer out over the outside nut.
Once that is done,
You install the lock out body (without switch cap),
And pry the axle OUTWARDS, put the snap ring on the axle inside the lockout body,
Then put the lock out switch on the lockout body.
Well first of all, thank you JeepHammer for all of the advice and links you posted for me, I am very appreciative.
I used alot of your advice and over the last few days, I have removed everything from the spindle, cleaned it up, bought new bearings and the key (a long thin metal stick) that I was told goes in the slot down the spindle. What I now need to order is the spindle nut and washer set from quadratec. After I order that, I will have everything I need to make my repair.
My last question before I install it all, is how does the key go into the whole assembly? It
Is a piece of thin square metal stick, which I believe will slide into that slot down the spindle. Does anyone know what I'm refering too?
I really wanted to post pictures, so I will try to in a minute. Again, thank you JeepHammer and everyone else that pitched in, I'm gettin' close to having my cj back on his feet!