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Unread 02-14-2013, 02:45 AM   #61
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
One of the wires coming off the switch (red w/white stripe), should connect to the choke. The other is for the manifold heater.

Again, gong on memory, here, so someone please correct me, if I'm wrong.

Matt

Actually close but no cigar.


One wire is power coming from the back up light circuit. The other wire goes to a relay for the manifold heater AND the electric choke on the carb.




or in more detail:


Or picture wise:



I think this is the relay socket one of those red wire runs to.


Check here to see if the wire from the switch runs to this relay socket.

Usually though the wire to the E-choke runs through a 6 terminal plug which is usually removed in a nutter hack so you might not have the wire that runs to the e-choke. You might not have the 6 terminal connector anymore. If you do, that's good, just splice in a wire with the correct socket and plug it into your e-choe terminal.

Se my picture up above to what each connection looks like.

Get your test light out and see if you have power to one of the terminals on the oil pressure switch. then start the engine and make sure you have power to BOTH terminals on the oil pressure switch. If your backup lights work, chanses are this e-choke circuit also should work.

If you are not going to run the manifold heater then you just need to run one wire from the switch to e choke terminal.

If you want to hook up the manifold heater then we can address that later.

Usually though I adjust the choke by loosening the e-choke housing.
1. I lay a brick or something on the accelerator pedal to keep the carb throttle open fully.
2. Adjust the housing so it just closes the choke butterfly.
3. remove brick and start engine
4. Adjust idle speed for cold engine and then for warm engine

Not sure of the adjustment on a 2100 though. I'm sure you can find a ton of info on how to adjust the choke and idle on a 2100.

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Unread 02-14-2013, 03:59 AM   #62
Matt1981CJ7
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Thanks for the clarification John.

My '81 doesn't have the relay, or manifold heater, so I was kinda guessing at Chug's setup. I was close.

Chug, keep us updated.

Matt
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Unread 02-14-2013, 04:33 AM   #63
Chuggins08
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ill get right on that this afternoon after i get out of class
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Unread 02-14-2013, 12:20 PM   #64
Chuggins08
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Tell me if this looks right

forumrunner_20130214_142037.jpg
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Unread 02-14-2013, 12:24 PM   #65
John Strenk
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Need a better angle, all I see is a stripped red wire twisted into something...

Looks like you found the right connector though.
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Unread 02-14-2013, 01:24 PM   #66
Chuggins08
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Its the red with white stripe wire tied into a wire I have running to the choke
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Unread 02-14-2013, 07:12 PM   #67
John Strenk
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Ok, make sure you have power then.
Use a test light or voltmeter.
Don't forget the carb has to be grounded also.
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Unread 02-14-2013, 09:00 PM   #68
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What would I connect the ground wire to on the carb?
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Unread 02-14-2013, 09:46 PM   #69
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I'd do the nutter, if you don't need the emission's stuff, get rid of it.. probably has an emission control box on top of your heater blower motor under the dash, you can eliminate all of that wiring.. then all of those vacuum hookups that were controlled by that emission stuff.. mine runs great since I did the conversion.. don't forget to immediately change your timing, probably 8degrees BTC I believe, but the bypass will tell you all of that..
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Unread 02-15-2013, 04:59 AM   #70
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frhrwa View Post
I'd do the nutter, if you don't need the emission's stuff, get rid of it.. probably has an emission control box on top of your heater blower motor under the dash, you can eliminate all of that wiring.. then all of those vacuum hookups that were controlled by that emission stuff.. mine runs great since I did the conversion.. don't forget to immediately change your timing, probably 8degrees BTC I believe, but the bypass will tell you all of that..
Umm...please take the time to read the thread before responding. The OP has already done the Nutter. He's struggling with the after-Nutter wiring, right now.

Chug, did you ever get a service manual? If not, I strongly urge you to do so. The Haynes manuals are cheap, fairly thorough, and they can be found at virtually any Auto parts store.

Once you have a manual, look up the wiring diagram for a pre-1980 CJ. AMC began adding emissions packages in 1980, and started using computers in 1982. Prior to that they were setup almost identically to what you are trying to accomplish.

I'm sorry, I know you'd prefer that we hold your hand thru each step of this, but you need to help us out a little, here.

Matt
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Unread 02-15-2013, 05:31 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuggins08
What would I connect the ground wire to on the carb?
First I would check to see if it is grounded.
It should b grounded by the mounting bolts through the base of the carb eventually to the screws and ring that holds the cover of the e-choke onto the carb.
Over years the contacts on the cover ring and the contact on the plastic cover rust or corrode. A little cleaning with scotch bright or sand paper will clean it right up.

You can check for a good ground by putting the clip lead of a test light on the positive post (+) of the battery and probe the cover of the e-choke contacts.
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Unread 02-15-2013, 05:45 AM   #72
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Here is a pre-computer wire diagram. This may help. If you need it bigger PM your email address I will send you a PDF version.
cj_wiring_colored_full_final.jpg  
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Unread 02-15-2013, 06:21 AM   #73
Chuggins08
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Yes it seems that I need y'all to hold my hands but I have no clue what the hell im doing so my bad if it seems that way
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Unread 02-15-2013, 06:22 AM   #74
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Thank you waterdog for the diagram
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Unread 02-15-2013, 07:02 AM   #75
frhrwa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Umm...please take the time to read the thread before responding. The OP has already done the Nutter. He's struggling with the after-Nutter wiring, right now.

Chug, did you ever get a service manual? If not, I strongly urge you to do so. The Haynes manuals are cheap, fairly thorough, and they can be found at virtually any Auto parts store.

Once you have a manual, look up the wiring diagram for a pre-1980 CJ. AMC began adding emissions packages in 1980, and started using computers in 1982. Prior to that they were setup almost identically to what you are trying to accomplish.

I'm sorry, I know you'd prefer that we hold your hand thru each step of this, but you need to help us out a little, here.

Matt
Haynes manuals and Chilton manuals are worthless! if the po did the nutter, then he didn't finish the job.. read the damn nutter bypass instructions, see where he left off, finish the job properly.... "and I did read the previous comments"!!! if this guy wants a full FSM for the jeep, I'll send him a CD with it on it, at least it has ALL the information rather than those phony little magic boxes that chiltons and Haynes draw in to represent for instance the light switch, or the computer, or the emission control unit.. I'm electronic, and when a wire goes into a box, I WANT TO KNOW what its going to, and where its coming out! they take it in, you guess where it comes out!.. the vacuum hoses are extremely simple once you've FINISHED the evacuation of the emission junk.. the po may have forgotten to set the timing for example.. so, starting over like it had not been done, follow through each step, if it has been done, check it off and go on from there!.. heck, that may not even be the problem, you may wind up finding a huge vacuum leak, hoses not connected are one thing, but loose carbs, bad gaskets, there are a lot of little things to make note of..
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