I am trying to get my 258 4.2L amc engine to run, and the first to tackle are the vacuum hoses and where their correct locations are. When I got the jeep there were zero hoses hooked up, so thought that maybe hooking the hoses up correctly could be vital in this rebuild. Anyone have any diagrams/photos/videos that point me towards the right path. Suggestions and advice are appreciated.
Honestly, i don't know about a complete shutdown. Think of it this way, you need fuel, air and ignition for it to run. I would think wrong hoses could be a concern. I am still it teardown mode and most everything was working when I started a few months ago.
HAve a good look at what you hav ether ebefore you assume it will all just hook up and run properly.
What are the laws like in your State, do you need to get it back to original?
I would then look at the following:
What carb have you got? It does not look like a Certer BBD with a stepper motor so some of thet emissions equipment will never work unless you get one.
What air filter have you got? Some of that hooks up to the TAC. No TAC = No hoses to attach
What exhaust headers are you running? I cannot see clearly if you have the original cast headers. If you have tubular then that EGR valve is not going to work.
Do you have a brake booster? Sorry, photo is blurred and I cannot see it.
Some of the kit in the diagram posted above would be fine and dandy to have, like the Forward Delay etc but how many of those bits have you got?
If you want to see if it can run properly you only need 2 hoses, one between the distributor and carb and one from the manifold to the brake booster (if you have one). I would then stopper every other port in the carb and manifold. The port on the carb for the distributor can be ported or manifold vacuum, you need to work out what they are. Basically manifold sucks at idle, ported only higher up. Manifold may make it run better. Once it i srunning straight you could look at the PCV hose and hooking up the vacuum canister to purge various emissions etc etc
If you have the computer controlled type Motorcraft DUraspark ignition just see if it is nuttered. Basically the sensor wires from the distributor should go to the ICM and not up into the dash area to the computer.
Yeah me and two guys I know that work on jeeps were thinking it wasnt the original carb, but we cannot seem to find a brand name or anything. The PO put an edlebrock (or however u spell it) air filter on it. It does not have a brake booster either. And by the way, I live in georgia so we dont have smog tests done or anything. Im thinking the headers are original because they are more square than tubular.
Looks like a MC2100 carb. If you going to keep the carb and not worry about all the emissions stuff do the nutter bypass. These diagrams should help witht the vacuum lines. They are both the same except one if for 2 port cto the other ia 5 port cto. Yes, if the vacuum lines are not hook up or not hook up at all the engine may not run or may not idle or run correctly.
Do search on this site ot do a google search you will find tons of stuff. But basiclly you are bypassing the computer between the Ignition Control Modual(ICM) to the distributor. You run 2 wires from the ICM to the distributor. Then you set the timing to 8* BTC. Its really easy, and puts the Jeep back to the pre computer era.
Yes you will have to cut the wires. Make sure you twist the new purple and orange wire. I used a drill I put one end of each in a vise the other ends in drill and twisted the wires. It is very important that its done.
If you have the original exhaust headers they connect to the bottom of the inlet manifold, there is a gasket etc. If they are not connected the EGR valve has nothing to do as it has no Exhaust Gases to Recirculate.
Good luck with sorting out all that spaghetti, I suggest getting hold of the Factory Service Manual which has a whole section on the emissions control.