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Unread 07-30-2009, 12:12 AM   #16
HackFabrication
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 2,551
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbomber View Post
My buddy has a 350 and a 305 that hell sell me for a good price and im looking at a 304. What would be the best and/or cheapest way to go about this. I also need some direction in the tranny and T-case. I have an 85 CJ-7 with a 4 banger in it now with a 4 speed. I dont know what i have for axels or what my tranny or T-case are.

Thanks for any advice and reccomendations.
If your 85 CJ is stock you would have:

AMC 150 I4
Wide Track (WT) Dana 30 front, and AMC 20 rear axles.
Dana 300 transfer case.
Most likely a T4 transmission. However, I've seen posts from owners with the I4/T176. If the shift lever is straight it's a T176, and 'S' it's a T4.

Any engine swap will necessitate an evaluation of current components. The Dana 300 is up to the power of a V8. The T4 isn't. A T176 can survive behind a mild V8 (I've seen many 360 CJ's with the T176), and is factory adapted to the Dana 300. The axle longevity is really a factor of wheel size and driving style. The deepest gears you can get for a 30/20 combo are 4.88's with common internet knowledge recommending no more than a 4.56. One piece axles are a must in the AMC 20 if you have good power, big rubber, and proper gearing. Again, common internet concensus is that a 33-35 inch tire is the limit for the 30/20 combo, even with upgrades. There are always exceptions, mostly dictated by driving style.

AMC: Easiest of the swaps. 304/360/401 mated to a T18/D300 is good combo. Again the T176 would be my preference for a mostly street driven CJ, if you don't want an overdrive. AMC 4.2L (258) or the newer 4.0L I6 engines are all good swaps if you want decent torque and lots of room in the engine bay. Lots of info on the 4.0L swaps. If you're interested in a 5spd OD trans, I would use the AX15 or NV35xx as opposed to the T5. Too many variables with the T5 to suit me. One of the 'nice things' about going AMC (or remaining AMC), is that you can probably gather all the components 'ready made' (as they are OEM), so you don't have to custom fab things like skidplates, crossmembers, driveshafts, etc. If you're looking for 'bolt in', this is about as easy as it gets.

GM: Going SBC will necessitate a number of things, however there is mucho aftermarket support for this swap. If I was contemplating a SBC swap into a CJ7, I'd consider the TH700R4. You are going to need an adapter for the Tcase no matter what GM trans you choose. If you go wild and put a 'roarin snortin' SBC, then be prepared to upgrade axles, driveshafts, etc. Like was posted, the MAW's will come fast and furious.

Ford: Although not as common as the SBC, the SBF swap makes a lot of sense. There is some aftermarket support for this swap, although not as much as the SBC. Either the 5.0L/302 or 5.8L/351W are good swaps. In my area, SBF engines are easier to comeby than their SBC counterparts, so I swapped a 5.0L into my CJ5:


Had I had enough room, there would've been an upgraded AOD behind it rather than the Ford T18.

All Others: You're on your own. Some to none aftermarket support. If you're and ace fabricator, have the shop/tools/time and $$$, you can put anything into a CJ. It might not 'look' like a stock CJ when you're done with it, but that wouldn't be the point. Right?

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Unread 07-30-2009, 01:35 PM   #17
cjbomber
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Location: Winslow, ME
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Ive been researching this all day and i think what ive come to is that im going to use that 350. For the transmission ill use a SM465 and keep my D-300 T-case. Thats what i have now. THat adapter for the Tranny to T-case is $$$. I wish i had the T176.

Is there any way a different Tcase would work, like one that would bolt to that SM465 and still fit well? I think i NO the answer but id like to hear what you guys think. And one more thing, if i use my D300 i dont need a SYE for my lift right? What, if anything, is normally needed with a 4 inch lift system?

Thanks again guys its been a huge help. Cheers

Matt
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Unread 07-30-2009, 01:42 PM   #18
kickingprop
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the NP205 will bolt up to an SM465 without an adapter and is stronger than the D300 but also larger. The only problem is the 205 only has a 2:1 low range. the 203/205 doubler is popular as well. Do a google search on it.


the 350/SM465 combo will definitely be plenty strong for anything you want to throw at it though! and either a D300 or NP205 or 203/205 would be pretty stout although the length of the 203/205 combo could be cause for concern on your driveline angles
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

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Unread 07-30-2009, 10:23 PM   #19
rustymudder
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by HackFabrication View Post
If your 85 CJ is stock you would have:


Ford: Although not as common as the SBC, the SBF swap makes a lot of sense. There is some aftermarket support for this swap, although not as much as the SBC. Either the 5.0L/302 or 5.8L/351W are good swaps. In my area, SBF engines are easier to comeby than their SBC counterparts, so I swapped a 5.0L into my CJ5:


Had I had enough room, there would've been an upgraded AOD behind it rather than the Ford T18.
Hack Fab I'm so Jealous, I want to swap in a 5.0L in my CJ7. I already have a Ford T18 in it now. I just need some money, but don't we all
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Unread 07-31-2009, 05:39 AM   #20
HackFabrication
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 2,551
Thanks, in hindsight it wasn't that difficult a swap, so whenever you're ready to do it, there are a number of us that can help.
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Unread 08-27-2010, 10:42 PM   #21
outback94YJ
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sanford, NC
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by HackFabrication View Post
If your 85 CJ is stock you would have:

AMC 150 I4
Wide Track (WT) Dana 30 front, and AMC 20 rear axles.
Dana 300 transfer case.
Most likely a T4 transmission. However, I've seen posts from owners with the I4/T176. If the shift lever is straight it's a T176, and 'S' it's a T4.

Any engine swap will necessitate an evaluation of current components. The Dana 300 is up to the power of a V8. The T4 isn't. A T176 can survive behind a mild V8 (I've seen many 360 CJ's with the T176), and is factory adapted to the Dana 300. The axle longevity is really a factor of wheel size and driving style. The deepest gears you can get for a 30/20 combo are 4.88's with common internet knowledge recommending no more than a 4.56. One piece axles are a must in the AMC 20 if you have good power, big rubber, and proper gearing. Again, common internet concensus is that a 33-35 inch tire is the limit for the 30/20 combo, even with upgrades. There are always exceptions, mostly dictated by driving style.

AMC: Easiest of the swaps. 304/360/401 mated to a T18/D300 is good combo. Again the T176 would be my preference for a mostly street driven CJ, if you don't want an overdrive. AMC 4.2L (258) or the newer 4.0L I6 engines are all good swaps if you want decent torque and lots of room in the engine bay. Lots of info on the 4.0L swaps. If you're interested in a 5spd OD trans, I would use the AX15 or NV35xx as opposed to the T5. Too many variables with the T5 to suit me. One of the 'nice things' about going AMC (or remaining AMC), is that you can probably gather all the components 'ready made' (as they are OEM), so you don't have to custom fab things like skidplates, crossmembers, driveshafts, etc. If you're looking for 'bolt in', this is about as easy as it gets.

GM: Going SBC will necessitate a number of things, however there is mucho aftermarket support for this swap. If I was contemplating a SBC swap into a CJ7, I'd consider the TH700R4. You are going to need an adapter for the Tcase no matter what GM trans you choose. If you go wild and put a 'roarin snortin' SBC, then be prepared to upgrade axles, driveshafts, etc. Like was posted, the MAW's will come fast and furious.

Ford: Although not as common as the SBC, the SBF swap makes a lot of sense. There is some aftermarket support for this swap, although not as much as the SBC. Either the 5.0L/302 or 5.8L/351W are good swaps. In my area, SBF engines are easier to comeby than their SBC counterparts, so I swapped a 5.0L into my CJ5:


Had I had enough room, there would've been an upgraded AOD behind it rather than the Ford T18.

All Others: You're on your own. Some to none aftermarket support. If you're and ace fabricator, have the shop/tools/time and $$$, you can put anything into a CJ. It might not 'look' like a stock CJ when you're done with it, but that wouldn't be the point. Right?
Great job on your Jeep! Really clean install. Could you provide me with a list of what parts you used? From radiator cooler hoses to wiring harnesses. Thanks much.

outback94yj
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Unread 08-28-2010, 01:19 AM   #22
RangerRick
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lomita CA
Posts: 225
FWIW,
A T-176 with a bellhousing from a SR-4, T-4/T-5 that had the Iron Duke GM 4 cylinder originally can be used to mate your T-176/D300 combo up to a Chevy 350 engine. Easy and cheap to get they are for sale all the time and the bellhousing has bosses to tap for either the T4/T5 or a T-176 transmission. I know because I've done this on a couple of Jeep conversions. This way your Jeep can still use a hydraulic clutch in the conversion and will run the 153 tooth small flywheel clutch with a 10.5" disc.

RangerRick
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Unread 08-29-2010, 09:05 PM   #23
outback94YJ
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sanford, NC
Posts: 7
What did you do for the hot water "rails along the top of the engine going to the heater box of the jeep? What type hose did you use to connect them? What type upper/lower radiator hoses?
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Unread 09-28-2011, 10:12 PM   #24
micrablue
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ferndale, WA
Posts: 4
Where did you have problems with the AOD?

Had I had enough room, there would've been an upgraded AOD behind it rather than the Ford T18. [/QUOTE]

The reason why I'm asking is I have a 5.0L in my CJ-7, and am running an NV4500 with Dana 300.

I don't want to shift anymore, and have been heavily researching the 4R70W. The only question I have right now, is, whether the pan is going to *hit* the front driveshaft (passenger side).

Is this what you found with the AOD - which is essentially the same casing?
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Unread 09-29-2011, 06:29 AM   #25
HackFabrication
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 2,551
It was more of a drive line length issue in my CJ5.
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