i need some ideas for improving the brakes, it has disk in the front and drums in the rear and no booster. i was going to use some disks that fit the front and make a rear disk kit but the center hole isnt big enough, i would buy a kit but they cost a fortune. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Are you looking for a hardware upgrade, or tips for improving performance with the existing system?
I agree that 35" tires are going to strain the braking system, but I don't see the point of throwing new or recycled hardware 'improvements' at a CJ (or any vehicle), if the existing braking system hasn't already been fixed/adjusted/maintained, especially if you are working with a modest budget.
I'm no brake expert, but I would start with the basics: Check for leaks. Check the brake fluid level. Then bleed the brakes. If the fluid is of an unknown age, you might consider pumping entirely new fluid into it during the bleed procedure.
After that, the next step might be new pads. Of course if you're going to install new pads, then the state of the rotors and calipers comes into play as well. The braking system is, afterall, a system.
Just my 2 cents
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Booster would be easier and cheaper. I have never been a real big fan of rear disc brakes. Just seems weird to me.
What I dont understand is why you say it doesnt stop very good with 35" tires. Many ppl pull their boats and what not with their CJs and dont usually seem to have a problem, other than it has a real short wheel base.
-Pedal assembly and booster off a '91 Cherokee
-Master Cylinder off a 68 vette (power brake model, has a larger piston)
-Rear calipers off an mid 80's Chevy fullsize truck
-Rear rotors off a mid 90's f-150 (just need to take a touch off the center hole to clear the axle flange)
-Rear brake lines off a mid 80's Chevy fullsize car (Impala, Bel Air, etc)
-Standard Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve
-Disc brake brackets from Ruff Stuff
I went from two footed braking to being able to lock up the tires as will. Huge difference from the old disc/drum/manual setup.
Wrangler or XJ* booster will help you a lot if you have oversized tires near 35 size. IMHO I don't understand the above arguments that if it is stock why to change it and check for leaks instead. Sorry guys but I doubt you have ever driven CJ with 35 tires and manual brakes (those who are saying stock setup is OK).
*will need extending main pushrod by some 1", and wrangler spacer which is easy to manufacture if you have no partsyard nearby. + brake flaring work/fittings etc.
Just an opinion, mind you;
I currently run 35s with early 5 lug Cherokee Dana 44 rear drums and stock (thick rotor) '81 disks up front; even running a booster the brakes are marginal when trying to bring the Jeep down to a quick stop from interstate speeds.
I suggest 4 wheel disk brakes (there are many junkyard variants, I like GM/Wagoneer backing plates & calipers with scout rotors (front and rear). Either modify the rotor center hole to fit over the rear axle or turn down the rear axle flanges. We have done this several times and gotten exceptional performance, every time (being rear ended during a quick stop is a real concern). Use an adequate master cylinder.
The stock CJ brakes are OK for 33s but I have yet to see good braking performance with stock/near stock brakes and 35s on a CJ.
...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway.
Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road.
I currently run 35's on my cj5 without power brakes and love it...It holds on hills and stops just fine....I think u might want to try adjusting the rears and checking things over again. I was currently running power brakes on it and switched over to manual i like the feel of manual brakes that are set up right over power...But its just a preferance....
Its a jeep thing...Hell nobody understands!!!!
What I am in the process on my CJ-7 is installing rear disc brakes and a booster on the master cylinder. Yes the disc brake kits are high but you can also gather the parts that can be bought from a parts store and do it yourself if you have the ability to fab some brackets and set things up correctly. I think in the end you'll have a much better system in going this way. I had an International Scout that had about the same sytem as the stock CJ and with 36" tires it was a fright to get stopped, much less hold it on a steep hill. In my opinion you need better brakes than factory with 36" tires and you no doubt have a lift and that also has an affect on the performance of your brakes.
I had a stock brake system on my 85, with disc/drum. Added the power booster, bracket, and adjustable rod, and now my brakes are perhaps too good! I run 33's. I believe this to be your cheapest solution.
'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20. 1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208 1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231