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Unread 04-04-2013, 03:46 PM   #61
86cj74.2L
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The YouTube video I posted is my conduit run inside the house

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Unread 04-04-2013, 03:48 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOISERUNNER
Just pokin at ya a little Lucdog,but I know you can take it. TKF can you see any KO's in the back of your House panel like the one in the upper right hand side in Hasselback's panel? You will have to carefully move wire out of the way then drill a 2-1/4" hole out from the inside out then you would run a conduit out that hole into your LB's short leg then downinto the ground and use 2 hole straps to hold it to your siding then do the same thing when you go into the shop. Again just opinion...Many ways to skin a cat.
THX Doug
This is the best way. ^ before doing any work in the box, shut off the main breaker!!!

Yes I can take it, made me laugh!!

Bill
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Unread 04-04-2013, 07:20 PM   #63
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Be sure that you do not bond your neutral at your 100 amp subfeed panel to ground. The neutral conductor from your house panel and neutral branch circuit conductors should be isolated from the ground conductor and branch circuit grounds inside your 100 amp panel. The reason the code requires is in the event you lose or the impedance from your neutral fed from your house feed increases, the ground conductor does not become a current carrying conductor and become a shock hazard to someone.
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Unread 04-05-2013, 08:05 AM   #64
TKFireman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
The YouTube video I posted is my conduit run inside the house
I can not see the video for some reason.

I applied for the permit this morning. The people in the inspection office were very helpful, but said that they are behind and to expect 2-3 weeks for the permit to be issued, which seems a little extreme to me.

I was able to sit down with an inspector for a while and found out some things. What he told me I'm sure will be argued, but its what the man who is inspecting it told me. Water line has minimum depth of 12". Power 18" in conduit, 24" direct burial. Water and power can be in the same ditch without any separation. So I can dig one 20" deep trench, but the 2" conduit in the bottom, water line sitting directly on top of the conduit and pass inspection. He also told me that any wire, SER, direct burial, XHHW can be put inside the wall of the structure without conduit because the wall itself is protecting the wire, so I don't need to do any splices no mater what wire I use. He also told me to install a back flow preventer on the water line at the yard hydrant. Glad he told me that, I wouldn't have thought about it. I know some of this contradicts what some people have said, but it makes my life easier and if the inspector is happy, I'm happy.
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Unread 04-05-2013, 08:57 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKFireman View Post
I can not see the video for some reason.

I applied for the permit this morning. The people in the inspection office were very helpful, but said that they are behind and to expect 2-3 weeks for the permit to be issued, which seems a little extreme to me.

I was able to sit down with an inspector for a while and found out some things. What he told me I'm sure will be argued, but its what the man who is inspecting it told me. Water line has minimum depth of 12". Power 18" in conduit, 24" direct burial. Water and power can be in the same ditch without any separation. So I can dig one 20" deep trench, but the 2" conduit in the bottom, water line sitting directly on top of the conduit and pass inspection. He also told me that any wire, SER, direct burial, XHHW can be put inside the wall of the structure without conduit because the wall itself is protecting the wire, so I don't need to do any splices no mater what wire I use. He also told me to install a back flow preventer on the water line at the yard hydrant. Glad he told me that, I wouldn't have thought about it. I know some of this contradicts what some people have said, but it makes my life easier and if the inspector is happy, I'm happy.
I missed the part about the yard hydrant. It's against code to use those for potable water, without the backflow preventer, because of the way they operate. Good luck with your project!
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Unread 04-05-2013, 01:50 PM   #66
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKFireman View Post
I can not see the video for some reason.

I applied for the permit this morning. The people in the inspection office were very helpful, but said that they are behind and to expect 2-3 weeks for the permit to be issued, which seems a little extreme to me.

I was able to sit down with an inspector for a while and found out some things. What he told me I'm sure will be argued, but its what the man who is inspecting it told me. Water line has minimum depth of 12". Power 18" in conduit, 24" direct burial. Water and power can be in the same ditch without any separation. So I can dig one 20" deep trench, but the 2" conduit in the bottom, water line sitting directly on top of the conduit and pass inspection. He also told me that any wire, SER, direct burial, XHHW can be put inside the wall of the structure without conduit because the wall itself is protecting the wire, so I don't need to do any splices no mater what wire I use. He also told me to install a back flow preventer on the water line at the yard hydrant. Glad he told me that, I wouldn't have thought about it. I know some of this contradicts what some people have said, but it makes my life easier and if the inspector is happy, I'm happy.
Fixed.........

here it is again

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Unread 04-12-2013, 12:55 PM   #67
TKFireman
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Still waiting for the permit but found out something new this morning. When I was told I needed a back flow preventer, I was thinking an in-line check valve. Turns out they want a full RPZ back flow preventer, the cheap ones run $100+. This thing can not be burried, it has to be above ground and completely insulated. The water line is not going to happen right now.

Started planning the interior wiring. Planning on a 125amp 24 circuit GE subpanel with separate ground and neutral bus bars. Panel comes with 6 20 amp single pole breakers. I didn't see any main breakers for the panel, but figured a 100amp 2 pole breaker will work for the main breaker correct? 2 - 5/8" ground rods, driven a minimum of 6' apart. Any height or other requirements for mounting the panel?

Planning to use MC wiring interior instead of conduit, seems much easier and appears to actually be cheaper. 12-2 for 110v receptacles and lights

3 circuits with 20 amp single pole breakers for 110 volt receptacles, each with 10 tamper resistant 15 amp receptacles, with a ground fault receptacle first inline on each circuit. I assume a GFCI is required, even though its in doors in a non-plumbed building. Metal two gang boxes with 2 sets of receptacles in each

1 circuit with 20 amp single pole breaker for lighting, consisting of 6 T8 fluorescent light fixtures - 8' length, each using 4 4' bulbs. Ran through 2 switches, for right and left side of building. 3rd switch for two exterior motion sensor flood lights. Should I add a second circuit for lighting, or will one breaker handle it?

I'll worry about wiring in air compressor and other items later. I want to build an exterior store room to house the air compressor and maybe other items so the compressor won't be so loud inside the shop. I hope to wire in the lights and receptacles and have the final inspection done. Then worry about the rest later.

Any recommendations are appreciated.
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Unread 04-12-2013, 01:19 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasselback
Heres my 100 amp sub feed in my shop coming 150 feet from the house where I have a 200 amp service. Got 6/3 stranded copper with a ground coming from the house. I have almost 1000 watts of light in the shop, a 110 V mig, 220 V compressor, a fridge, and best of all, a 10,000 watt garage stereo! Everything can run at the same time with no problem.
Not to give u a hard time but since you know code....

In that sub your neutrals should be floating and your grounds should be bonded to the panel, which they are not.

Also you have some mis matched breakers made by different manufactures than the actual panel. While some breakers are rated for installation in other panels some are not..
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Unread 04-12-2013, 01:21 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Brewski
Be sure that you do not bond your neutral at your 100 amp subfeed panel to ground. The neutral conductor from your house panel and neutral branch circuit conductors should be isolated from the ground conductor and branch circuit grounds inside your 100 amp panel. The reason the code requires is in the event you lose or the impedance from your neutral fed from your house feed increases, the ground conductor does not become a current carrying conductor and become a shock hazard to someone.
Ha, that's what I get for reading from my cell. Did not see that someone else already pointed that out..
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Unread 04-12-2013, 01:21 PM   #70
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If the code is just for a frost free faucet, u might want to look into a janitorial sink just inside the door. A water hose will screw right to it and is real good place to wash hands and tools. The only down side is u have to run a drain .
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Unread 04-12-2013, 01:30 PM   #71
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If the code is just for a frost free faucet, u might want to look into a janitorial sink just inside the door. A water hose will screw right to it and is real good place to wash hands and tools. The only down side is u have to run a drain .
I thought about it. I'm on a well with a LPP septic system. The drain is not going to happen, would be way too expensive for the benefit of it.
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Unread 04-12-2013, 04:19 PM   #72
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Run the pipes, put a light covering of dirt on them, then run your wires. Hide the ends of the pipe until the inspector signs off on the permit so you can back fill. After everything is signed off, finish connecting your pipes.
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Unread 04-12-2013, 04:32 PM   #73
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Don't fret, there will be water ran out there eventually, just not in the initial permitting phase. I'll leave it at that.
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Unread 04-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #74
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Sounds like things are moving along fast. I envy you and I am guessing I am not alone. One circuit for lighting should be plenty, depending on what you are using for your motion lights. Is there any chance you might want to put a couple of quartz lights near your roll-up door for outdoor work or is the whole point of the shop to keep it all indoors? Figure about 1600 watts per circuit for your lighting. If you use two 150 watt flood lights in each of your motion lights and your eight flourescents that would be fully loaded if everything were on at once. If you add some other lighting, i.e. task lighting over work benches, lighting in your dormer for your compressor or quartz lights you may want to split your lighting load into two circuits. If you are trying to keep things on a budget one circuit will probably be adequate because it is unlikely all your lighting will be used simultaneously.
If it is an option you may want to keep your panel located closest to the area where your bigger loads will be. Less cost later when you go to run run larger gauge wire for a welder or compressor. Also the shorter your run is from the panel the less voltage drop to worry about.
Also you may want to have your concrete contractor turn up a UFER ground under your panel location. It may not be required but it is still a good idea and a very cheap additional grounding method, one twenty foot piece of rebar.
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Unread 04-12-2013, 08:17 PM   #75
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Put 20a recepticals in. And use 3 dollar ones not 99 cent ones. And wrap the wires around the screws. Don't jam them in the holes and tighten the screws.
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