Homebuilding. I build 'em on paper and the subs build 'em on site. Been dealing with the code since about 1988 and have seen it turn from helpful to political.
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)
It was stated earlier that no ground rod is needed at the shop sub-panel. It may work without one by going all the way back to the house ground. If you are not pulling a permit you may get this to work but remember all electricity is doing is trying to get back to ground.If all the way back to the house is longer then down your leg to ground you will get a longer/bigger hit. In Idaho you would have to run a ground from the main to your sub and you would have to run a # 6 solid bare copper continuously from your sub to a ufer (usually a 20 foot rebar in an L laid into the footing poor with the tip of the foot of the L sticking above the mud sill 8") then on to a 8'X5/8" ground rod. I have also seen inspectors require two rods. It is important to balance your ground. I do agree that AL(XHHW) is fine for your conductor and running a 1-1/2" (future) conduit is also the way to go. Thats my $.02
Thanks again for all the help. I think I'm going to use the SER to get out of the house without putting conduit behind a finished wall then transfer to the XHHW underground in 2" conduit all the way to the panel in the shop. Since I'm renting a trencher, ill probably dig two ditches to simplify everything. Engineered building drawings came in, I'll apply for permit tomorrow. Concrete guy is ready to start as soon as permit is approved. I'll probably start a shop build thread once it gets going, and throw in a pic of my CJ every once in a while to keep it jeep related.
I reckon I didn't explain what I was thinking fully. I hope to run the SER from the panel down inside the wall then out through the outer wall directly into a j box mounted on the side of the house near the ground. Then splice in and go underground from there. This is because the interior wall is finished and I'd have to rip down the sheetrock to put conduit in the wall. I'll use the LB elbows to get the wire into the shop with unfinished interior walls. Does that make more sense now?
Heres my 100 amp sub feed in my shop coming 150 feet from the house where I have a 200 amp service. Got 6/3 stranded copper with a ground coming from the house. I have almost 1000 watts of light in the shop, a 110 V mig, 220 V compressor, a fridge, and best of all, a 10,000 watt garage stereo! Everything can run at the same time with no problem.
1984 CJ7 I6 258 Bone stock
"Screw the brakes, just make the horn louder!"
My build thread
Just pokin at ya a little Lucdog,but I know you can take it. TKF can you see any KO's in the back of your House panel like the one in the upper right hand side in Hasselback's panel? You will have to carefully move wire out of the way then drill a 2-1/4" hole out from the inside out then you would run a conduit out that hole into your LB's short leg then downinto the ground and use 2 hole straps to hold it to your siding then do the same thing when you go into the shop. Again just opinion...Many ways to skin a cat.
TK, you can't run the SER thru the breaker box without protection from the metal box. A clamp is needed for this, so a hole in the drywall will be necessary to install one .
Similar to this.
Similar to this.
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