need advice for my shop - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 01:35 PM
hasselback
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Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Yeah but we build pretty much anywhere in the center of the state!
No, I don't usually have issues with the mechanical inspectors and we only build to IRC. It's these McDonalds helpers that become building inspectors that have no training in construction or engineering and couldn't build a birdhouse out of a pre-cut kit; that I got issues with. They have little common sense and get on a power trip without regard as to how silly they make themselves look, especially when they can't read a drawing. But I don't want to paint them all with that brush either.
Sounds like your in the construction industry somehow?

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post #47 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 01:43 PM
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Garage
Homebuilding. I build 'em on paper and the subs build 'em on site. Been dealing with the code since about 1988 and have seen it turn from helpful to political.

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post #48 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 01:50 PM
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It was stated earlier that no ground rod is needed at the shop sub-panel. It may work without one by going all the way back to the house ground. If you are not pulling a permit you may get this to work but remember all electricity is doing is trying to get back to ground.If all the way back to the house is longer then down your leg to ground you will get a longer/bigger hit. In Idaho you would have to run a ground from the main to your sub and you would have to run a # 6 solid bare copper continuously from your sub to a ufer (usually a 20 foot rebar in an L laid into the footing poor with the tip of the foot of the L sticking above the mud sill 8") then on to a 8'X5/8" ground rod. I have also seen inspectors require two rods. It is important to balance your ground. I do agree that AL(XHHW) is fine for your conductor and running a 1-1/2" (future) conduit is also the way to go. Thats my $.02
THX Doug
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post #49 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
TKFireman
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Thanks again for all the help. I think I'm going to use the SER to get out of the house without putting conduit behind a finished wall then transfer to the XHHW underground in 2" conduit all the way to the panel in the shop. Since I'm renting a trencher, ill probably dig two ditches to simplify everything. Engineered building drawings came in, I'll apply for permit tomorrow. Concrete guy is ready to start as soon as permit is approved. I'll probably start a shop build thread once it gets going, and throw in a pic of my CJ every once in a while to keep it jeep related.

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post #50 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:18 PM
hasselback
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Thanks again for all the help. I think I'm going to use the SER to get out of the house without putting conduit behind a finished wall then transfer to the XHHW underground in 2" conduit all the way to the panel in the shop. Since I'm renting a trencher, ill probably dig two ditches to simplify everything. Engineered building drawings came in, I'll apply for permit tomorrow. Concrete guy is ready to start as soon as permit is approved. I'll probably start a shop build thread once it gets going, and throw in a pic of my CJ every once in a while to keep it jeep related.
Great idea on the shop/Jeep build thread!

With your cables though, just remember that you can't splice dissimilar metal types.....
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post #51 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:23 PM
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Been dealing with the code since about 1988 and have seen it turn from helpful to political.

...mixed in with a few inspectors who hate coming to work every day.
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post #52 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
TKFireman
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Originally Posted by hasselback View Post
Great idea on the shop/Jeep build thread!

With your cables though, just remember that you can't splice dissimilar metal types.....
I plan to splice 1/0 Al SER to 1/0 AL XHHW. That should pass inspection.

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post #53 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:39 PM
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At what serviceable J-box are you going to do the splice? You must be able to get to it.cant be burried in a wall. watch your fill % as that is alot of big wire with big Polaris taps.
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post #54 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:44 PM
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I would do it like in the pix that Lucdog had his grandkid draw.LB out of the house sched.80 until under ground then switch to sched.40 then back to 80 coming out of the ground into LB at the shop.
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post #55 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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I reckon I didn't explain what I was thinking fully. I hope to run the SER from the panel down inside the wall then out through the outer wall directly into a j box mounted on the side of the house near the ground. Then splice in and go underground from there. This is because the interior wall is finished and I'd have to rip down the sheetrock to put conduit in the wall. I'll use the LB elbows to get the wire into the shop with unfinished interior walls. Does that make more sense now?

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post #56 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:54 PM
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ROFL, BOISERUNNER.

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1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
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post #57 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
TKFireman
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Originally Posted by BOISERUNNER View Post
I would do it like in the pix that Lucdog had his grandkid draw.
That's funny right there

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post #58 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 02:59 PM
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Heres my 100 amp sub feed in my shop coming 150 feet from the house where I have a 200 amp service. Got 6/3 stranded copper with a ground coming from the house. I have almost 1000 watts of light in the shop, a 110 V mig, 220 V compressor, a fridge, and best of all, a 10,000 watt garage stereo! Everything can run at the same time with no problem.


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post #59 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 03:13 PM
BOISERUNNER
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Just pokin at ya a little Lucdog,but I know you can take it. TKF can you see any KO's in the back of your House panel like the one in the upper right hand side in Hasselback's panel? You will have to carefully move wire out of the way then drill a 2-1/4" hole out from the inside out then you would run a conduit out that hole into your LB's short leg then downinto the ground and use 2 hole straps to hold it to your siding then do the same thing when you go into the shop. Again just opinion...Many ways to skin a cat.
THX Doug
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post #60 of 86 Old 04-04-2013, 03:43 PM
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TK, you can't run the SER thru the breaker box without protection from the metal box. A clamp is needed for this, so a hole in the drywall will be necessary to install one .
Similar to this.
image-3322927334.jpg

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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