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15 x 8 Black D-Window Steel Wheels Set of 4Magnaflow SS Cat Back Exhaust System, Street, High ClearanRCV Heavy Duty Axle Shafts Now Shipping at Baseline4x4.com

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Unread 10-02-2011, 07:45 PM   #76
lucdog
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A couple of sugestions,
1. A retractable air hose reel. It really helps keep things neater.
2. The Corporate 14 bolt with 33" tires, big loss of ground clearance. Look under the rear of any 3/4 ton Chevy truck, to see what I mean.
Bill

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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 07:53 PM   #77
Falcon_CMH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
A couple of sugestions,
1. A retractable air hose reel. It really helps keep things neater.
2. The Corporate 14 bolt with 33" tires, big loss of ground clearance. Look under the rear of any 3/4 ton Chevy truck, to see what I mean.
Bill
That's why I am asking folks what tire size I am sold on the axles. So 35" or 36" tires what do you think.

Yeah I need a hose real bad its on my list next time I go to the hardware store.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:02 PM   #78
frankush
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Alright, so the axles you're looking for are from a 70's era Chevy. Puts them in the 30 to 40 yr old range. Takes time to find them unless you pay freight, if the seller will even ship. I live outside Chicago. 30 to 40 yr old parts are few and far between. A decent YJ tub took over 9 months to find and I paid dearly for it. Freshly rebuilt Jeep CJ T18 took about a year and it came out of Indiana. 86 CJ rear dana 44 shipped from east coast, about 8 months to find one the way I wanted. It takes time. Post a want ad on this forum and on multiple Craiglist's. You can even post a wanted ad on EBay. You better know exactly what you want though or you'll end up with crap you can't use.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:23 PM   #79
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Alright, so the axles you're looking for are from a 70's era Chevy. Puts them in the 30 to 40 yr old range. Takes time to find them unless you pay freight, if the seller will even ship. I live outside Chicago. 30 to 40 yr old parts are few and far between. A decent YJ tub took over 9 months to find and I paid dearly for it. Freshly rebuilt Jeep CJ T18 took about a year and it came out of Indiana. 86 CJ rear dana 44 shipped from east coast, about 8 months to find one the way I wanted. It takes time. Post a want ad on this forum and on multiple Craiglist's. You can even post a wanted ad on EBay. You better know exactly what you want though or you'll end up with crap you can't use.
For sure finding the parts seems to take a while that is why I started looking. Shipping is too expensive I found a T18 w/Dana 20 on it for $125 but after shiping it was like ~450 so I passed on it driving to get it was just as expensive. So now comes the sit and wait for the parts to pop up for sale game like you said close by. I am not in a terrible hurry but I would likke to buy some things to work on over the winter worse case I do body work.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:24 PM   #80
popeyefireman
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By the looks of done of your pictures your in for a rust nightmare. The call it cancer for a reason. Usually you can only see about 25% of the true problem and work. I would bet you might be better finding a salvage tub from a dry climate and new fenders. If you have the money there is a great website to get the new panels. They are a little more pricey then the jcwhitney or Morris stuff. But they are hand made and better quality. A search on the forums will produce the name. That's where I hot it. The also have the panels other places don't. I think it was neat that it was signed by the guy that made it with the date. Good news is you'll be a welding expert when your all done.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:28 PM   #81
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By the looks of done of your pictures your in for a rust nightmare. The call it cancer for a reason. Usually you can only see about 25% of the true problem and work. I would bet you might be better finding a salvage tub from a dry climate and new fenders. If you have the money there is a great website to get the new panels. They are a little more pricey then the jcwhitney or Morris stuff. But they are hand made and better quality. A search on the forums will produce the name. That's where I hot it. The also have the panels other places don't. I think it was neat that it was signed by the guy that made it with the date. Good news is you'll be a welding expert when your all done.
Yeah the rust I knew was huge. I know I need a tub replacement and panels I might go glass haven't decided yet. I chose a mechanically sound Jeep over looks I might regret it but it is what it is. I do however want to learn to weld so that is a good thing especially if I go steel on the replacement tub and fenders etc.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:39 PM   #82
popeyefireman
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Body work welding can be tricky. You need and I mean NEED a mig. People will yell you flux core will work. It doesnt work well. It gets too hot. I've done mustangs falcons chevy trucks all from the 60-80s and mig makes work way easier. Glass is okay but you have to ground everything to the frame and that can be a pain. Plus resale is "no bueno" as they say in the southwest. The remade tubs are sub par in my opinion. There are still a tubs out there to be bought and they may even be cheaper then a new one after soda blasting and a good etching primer. I just did patch work on mine, but it won't be a daily driver. Just hunting a fun off road stuff so I'm bound to beat it up again.

As a off road vehicle owner I highly recommend a welding class. You want to know how to arc, mig and maybe even tig weld. It can save you a ton of money in the end. Your first frame crack will explain everything.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:43 PM   #83
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popeyefireman View Post
Body work welding can be tricky. You need and I mean NEED a mig. People will yell you flux core will work. It doesnt work well. It gets too hot. I've done mustangs falcons chevy trucks all from the 60-80s and mig makes work way easier. Glass is okay but you have to ground everything to the frame and that can be a pain. Plus resale is "no bueno" as they say in the southwest. The remade tubs are sub par in my opinion. There are still a tubs out there to be bought and they may even be cheaper then a new one after soda blasting and a good etching primer. I just did patch work on mine, but it won't be a daily driver. Just hunting a fun off road stuff so I'm bound to beat it up again.

As a off road vehicle owner I highly recommend a welding class. You want to know how to arc, mig and maybe even tig weld. It can save you a ton of money in the end. Your first frame crack will explain everything.
Very Good Advice. Welding thin metal is very hard. You have to watch the heat, jump around, many spot welds, do not run beads on body metal. On body work MIG is the only way to go. TIG is to hot.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:45 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Falcon_CMH View Post
...I do however want to learn to weld so that is a good thing especially if I go steel on the replacement tub and fenders etc.
I have played around with Oxy Acetylene welding for about 2 yrs. A few months ago I picked up a Hobart Handler 187 at Tractor Supply for 549.00 and absolutley love it. Never MIG welded before but this thing makes it easy! Have gotten better over the last month or so. I probably would not weld anything that could kill me if my welds failed, but everything else is fair game.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:51 PM   #85
popeyefireman
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Ya tig is too hot for body work. But good for other application of jeeping if you don't want to pay someone to do it. I have a Lincoln mig and use is for something at least once a week it seems.

If you go mig for body work make sure to get argon/co2 80/20 or 75/25. If keeps things cooler. Never run a bead more the 1/2 in and let the area cool. Or bondo will become your friend and metal worp will be everywhere.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:53 PM   #86
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X 2 on the welding class. Many community colleges offer evening classes and they cost next to nothing. It will instill a ton of confidence and you'll learn what to look for when purchasing you're first welder.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 09:40 PM   #87
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I took my first welding class at the local welding shop and have been back for several more, the most resent was on TIG.

The first course was free when I bought the Miller 175 from them (that was a machine they used in the class room and I got a good price and full warrenty)
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Unread 10-03-2011, 07:09 AM   #88
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Definetly gonna take some welding classes!
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Unread 10-03-2011, 05:53 PM   #89
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Charles, I know that u have seen those diamond plate body pieces. The ones u always see on the rear quarter panels. Do u happen to know if they r sold like that or if they have to be fabricated?
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Unread 10-03-2011, 05:55 PM   #90
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Charles, I know that u have seen those diamond plate body pieces. The ones u always see on the rear quarter panels. Do u happen to know if they r sold like that or if they have to be fabricated?
I have seen them but have no knowledge about them what so ever. Many folks want me to get some to cover my ugly Jeep though . I want to do the body work or get new stuff but it's last on my list over getting my Jeep Trail ready.
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