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Unread 09-30-2011, 08:12 PM   #61
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon_CMH
So far I found one article online that says no to the Dana 44 TTB axle.
Add me to the no list on the TTB.

Bill

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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 10-01-2011, 11:10 AM   #62
Falcon_CMH
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OK how about these babies:
3/4 ton FORD dana 60 front and Dana 70 rear axles with 4.10 gears, they look real clean and beefy, are Dana 70 axles hard to find parts/seals/etc. for?
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Unread 10-01-2011, 01:44 PM   #63
ffisher55
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Hi. I've been looking for a v-belt 2 groove ps pump pulley (1 large, 1 small for an emission pump), like in your pictures. Would you consider swapping with me for a single groove version?

Thanks,
Frank
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Unread 10-01-2011, 01:53 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffisher55 View Post
Hi. I've been looking for a v-belt 2 groove ps pump pulley (1 large, 1 small for an emission pump), like in your pictures. Would you consider swapping with me for a single groove version?

Thanks,
Frank
Well I might consider swapping but I was considering adding air conditioning and being the Noob I am I have no idea if I need that extra pully can anyone answer that for me? And what is that pully for anyway?
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
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Unread 10-01-2011, 09:02 PM   #65
ffisher55
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As far as I know, the pulley is used on applications with an emissions pump and possibly a snow plow setup. The a/c comp goes on the other side of the engine.

Frank
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Unread 10-01-2011, 09:28 PM   #66
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Have you seen these: http://www.cvfracing.com/AMC-Jeep-Wa...-p/amcl2wp.htm

Would they work for you?

I just am not comfortable with swaping a part I know little to nothing about. I guess ignorance breeds fear.

I saw a double pulley on the alternator using two belts to that pulley in a 304 pic and I was wondering if stock mine came that way and I need to add a belt?
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:28 AM   #67
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OK I have a line on this:

14 bolt heavy duty full floating rear axle
Dana 44 full floating front axle

From a 1974 Chevy Suburban camper special full time 4WD

What do you guys think?
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:40 AM   #68
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Also I have a line on a 06 Jeep Wrangler stock suspension parts (replaced with a lift kit) for cheap $100. How hard is a it to convert a CJ-7 leaf spring setup to this Wrangler spring setup?
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 02:50 PM   #69
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Video of my CJ-7 (The AMC 304 with an oversized CAM is sweet music to my ears)
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 02:56 PM   #70
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Temp and oil pressure warm, hit gas oil is at 60-65 75 top if you stand on it, temp stayed at 190 idle by end of video love the new fran shround was like ~260 before idle for that long ambient ~65
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Cockpit
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Drivers side
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Passengers side
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Back
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 03:00 PM   #71
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Front
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My humble tool set, air tools too
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My daughter's go cart the family built together 6.5 Hp
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The monster 1/2" Impact wrench I needed to replace the rear main bearing seal. I tighted one bearing bolt with my ingersol rand on accident and had to go big to get it off
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 06:04 PM   #72
Gido
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Charles, thanks for posting this thread! Keep up the good work. I to have just recently acquired a 80 model cj7. I will have to do a lot of the same things u are having to do. I am really excited about it.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 06:05 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gido View Post
Charles, thanks for posting this thread! Keep up the good work. I to have just recently acquired a 80 model cj7. I will have to do a lot of the same things u are having to do. I am really excited about it.
Awesome man lets help each other through this process it'll be a lot of fun always nice to have another in your same shoes !
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 07:19 PM   #74
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Dude, you need to slow down and use the search function. Lots of good info on axle swaps there. I spent months, if not years deciding what I wanted. All of that time was used for research. You'll get a lot more coherent reponses if you do the research first (just like on your KBS coatings) and then ask specific questions. Nothing on a CJ needs a monster impact. Main bearing caps get torqued to 80 ft/#s if I remember correctly. Use the impact to take things apart. Buy and use a torque wrench. You'll need a few of them. I'd look at the crank as well as the cap to make sure it's not damaged. The neighbors are gonna love you once they get a look at all the Jeep stuff all Jeep builders acquire and that doesn't fit in the garage.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 07:35 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankush View Post
Dude, you need to slow down and use the search function. Lots of good info on axle swaps there. I spent months, if not years deciding what I wanted. All of that time was used for research. You'll get a lot more coherent reponses if you do the research first (just like on your KBS coatings) and then ask specific questions. Nothing on a CJ needs a monster impact. Main bearing caps get torqued to 80 ft/#s if I remember correctly. Use the impact to take things apart. Buy and use a torque wrench. You'll need a few of them. I'd look at the crank as well as the cap to make sure it's not damaged. The neighbors are gonna love you once they get a look at all the Jeep stuff all Jeep builders acquire and that doesn't fit in the garage.
I have researched axle swaps for about 3-4+ months now, before I bought my Jeep I started looking. Its time to start to look into buying some replacements. I am taking my time but I am ready to find a good set of axles and I have decided on old Chevy 3/4 or 1 ton axles with the help of members out here. Now I just need to get a person to sell me some or go to our pick a part junkyard and find some which I am in the process of doing right now.

I also used the "Right Stuff" (Permatex) and this blue racing sealant (I forget the name) I researched which helped make everything go perfect (more research on sealants lots of research) for the oil pan and rear main bearing seal installation.

Trust me I am taking my time and doing my research on everything I do not need to slow down on the contrary I am taking a very long time to make decisions.

I own a torque wrench and I torqued my main bearings to 80ft/#s too. I did plenty of research on the replacement of the rear main beering seal and I did it perfect with 1 mistake. I had to loosen all of the bolts to get the seal out per my research and it worked great the seal came out easy. You didn't read correctly or I didn't state what happened clearly while loosening all the bolts I accidently tighted 1 instead of removing it with my Ingersol Rand which tighted it to like 1200 ft/#s on accident. Also it was at a little angle (The oil pickup was in the way some) and the Ingersol Rand could not get it loose so I had to get the bigger impact wrench which took it right off. I definitely was using the impaact wrenches for removal/loosening only. I used my torque wrench for tightened per my research.

I also did new oil pan seals and the leak from the rear main seal is now fixed no leak there at all. I have read other threads where people cannot get it back together without leaks and had to redo it. I got it right the first time I was proud of that and my wife was a great helper.

Thanks for the advice on the crank and cap.
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Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/my...thread-1264945
Given 6 hours to chop down a cherry tree a famous person once said I would sharpen my axe for 5 hours.
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