My ignition is being stubborn, engine doesn't start in "start" position - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 10-03-2007, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
scrible
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1981 CJ5 
 
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My ignition is being stubborn, engine doesn't start in "start" position

Well it wasn't like this when I had the 360 in my Jeep before the rebuild, I put it in exactly the same as it was before other than some performance parts. The only ignition change was a high voltage coil and TFI setup but I don't think that is the issue.

When I crank my Jeep it will crank forever without starting, but as soon as I let go of the ignition and let the key turn back to the "run" position it immediately starts.

Now, I've talked to several people, and the "I" post on the starter solenoid is supposed to power the coil when the key is in the "start" position and the motor is cranking. This power to the coil would allow it to start.

The "I" post on the solenoid is connected to the positive on the coil, yet it still does not start when the key is in the "start" position. It cranks the motor over, but doesn't start. It finally starts when I let go and the ignition goes back to the "run" position.

What in the heck is my issue here? I've tried countless times to diagnose it and have not come up with a solution!

Help me!



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post #2 of 7 Old 10-03-2007, 11:00 PM
OldSailor
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Have you checked that post with a voltmeter when you're trying to startit to insure that there is 12 volts there?

1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc.
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post #3 of 7 Old 10-03-2007, 11:00 PM
OldSailor
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Have you checked that post with a voltmeter when you're trying to startit to insure that there is 12 volts there?

1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc.
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-03-2007, 11:29 PM
slacker92104
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I'm not sure what the "I" post is, but I found this:

http://www.geocities.com/jeep_resour...d_summary1.jpg

Maybe it helps?

'81 CJ5, efi 302, AX-15 5 spd, On Board Air, wrangler spring conversion, Astro van Hydro Brakes.
Soon: Custom cut Dana 44 front, wide trac solid axle amc 20 rear, SOA,
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-04-2007, 05:17 AM
NOVA83CJ7
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I had the same problem when I swapped a 4.3 into my old YJ...I finally gave up and put a push button in. I set it up so I could turn the key to run and press the start button. I know kind of hokey but nobody could steal the thing without knowing about the button mounted under the edge of the dash.

Last resort but I grew to like it.

83 CJ7 ground up restore just begun. The chassis and drivetrain are in FL and the tub is in VA...this could take a while.

POTENTIAL - The French word for "aint worth a s**t"
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post #6 of 7 Old 10-04-2007, 05:50 AM
Scrambler82
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The starter button is cool, I have one in the 82 Scrambler, it is in the open but there is another security event to start the vehicle.

If the "I" terminal is connected to the coil and the engine is cranking AND there is 12v at the post, then the engine should start.

The grounds are always a problem within the Solenoid Mounting but the engine is cranking so you have a ground.

The next thing, as stated by OldSailor, check the output voltage of the solenoid "I" terminal when the key is in the start position.

Try another solenoid...

Scrambler82

Do it right the first time !
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post #7 of 7 Old 10-04-2007, 10:04 AM
John Strenk
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When Checking for 12 volts, unplug the "I" connector first and then check.

Then reconnect the terminal and check at the (+) on the coil and make sure there is 12 volts there.

Note: it might not read a full 12 volts but be at the same voltage the battery is putting out when cranking.

You can have either a bad solenoid or a bad wire to the coil from the solenoid.
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