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Unread 03-16-2013, 07:11 PM   #91
billybooster2
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1983 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cow Mountain, CA
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Coiz, thank you - I really appreciate your offer! Here's what I have read - and tell me if I'm off base.... the Contour fan has a resistor that is somewhat inline with a single taurus fan start amperage for the slow speed and then the jump is somewhat the same as the jump to high speed. If that isn't the case, how much more does the contour slow speed/dual fan pull than slow speed/ 16" taurus? If the volvo relay set up is designed for a taurus fan lookalike (and again it's only what the wonderful internet has sent to my eyes), should it not be suitable for that drwa and if so, why not the the contour?

In answer to what i want is to have dual slow triggered by the thermo switch i have from the bmw, dual high triggered by either my AC signal (compressor) OR a manual overide PLUS an off for water fording!!! Should I try the volvo set up? Or do you think it wouldnt up to par?

I appreciate your help, continued commitment to the jeep 'hood' and to this thread....

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Unread 03-19-2013, 06:47 PM   #92
Coiz
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Sorry for the late response, I've been a little busy lately.

You are correct in that the resistor simply lowers the available voltage to the fan(s) so that it will turn at a decreased speed. It does help with that initial start up draw somewhat.

The thing you have to remember is that the Contour dual fans are factory protected with a 60A fuse, basically 30A for each fan. The Taurus single fan is a 30A or 40A depending on what year you look at. That Volvo controller looks to be rated to 30A from what I can tell by the main red input wire. Is a single 30A relay enough to power both fans factory protected at 60A? Probably and you might not ever have a problem but it would certainly be under protected.

Another thing in regards to the Volvo controller is that, if the diagram you posted is correct, it is a true two dual speed relay setup in that the fan must be running on low speed before it can turn on the high speed. That is one of the downfalls to that type of controller, if anything happens to the low side control you lose all fan operation. This makes it so you can't just default on the high speed fan whenever you want unless the low speed is already running or you wire in a second switch. The way he has it drawn in the diagram should work fine for Off and Low but I doubt it works on High. We can find out for sure if you take one of your controllers, power the Red (A1) and ground the Yellow (B2), and tell me if it clicks. Keep in mind the Red (C2) will be hot if it does click.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billybooster2 View Post
i want to have dual slow triggered by the thermo switch i have from the bmw, dual high triggered by either my AC signal (compressor) OR a manual overide PLUS an off for water fording!!!
I can make a diagram showing you exactly how to wire both controllers to make it like that my only concern is the size of a single 30A relay powering both fans and the fact you will also have to wire in an extra cutoff switch for the low speed fans.

Another option would be to have one controller run the left fan on medium speed triggered by the thermo switch and use the second controller to run the other fan on High based off your A/C, thermo #2 or manual switch. Again, you'll still need two switches to be able to cut off the low speed fan. I also don't know if one fan would be able to handle the majority of your cooling.

At this point I think your best bet would be to either get two 60 amp relays or just double up your Volvo controllers so that they both share the load to the two fans. Wire it exactly like he has in the diagram you posted just splice the feeds and signal wires together. The switch he has should work fine for Off and Low but I am not sure about being able to turn on High. I am really curious to know if the relay clicks when you power the red and ground the yellow wire.

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Unread 03-19-2013, 07:29 PM   #93
billybooster2
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Wow! Even with an etchasketch I can't do that! Well I'm happy to run the volvo relays or not...



I would say that you are way better at this than I - clearly - and I would default to your better judgement. I have a 75A relay and multiple 40A's. IF I ignored the Volvo relay and went for a 75A and a 40A (or two) AND wanted to use that BMW switch I am so very proud of..... what would that be? That sounds like it would be better..

The only triggers would be thermo switch 1 or 2, A/C or manual! That sounds easier than trying to put a Volvo peg in a Jeep hole! Agree?

PS. THANKYOU for taking the time....
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Unread 03-19-2013, 10:19 PM   #94
Coiz
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If I had three relays and was trying to accomplish what you are trying to do, I would wire it one of two ways.

The following would give you a master On/Off for water crossings, both High and Low would be controlled by the Thermo switches and you would have a way to default the High speed fans On or give the A/C control of them. I have A/C Compressor Coil + listed in the diagram but it would just need any 12v input when the A/C is on. If your A/C is somehow a ground input, the relay and switch can easily be wired that way too.



The following still controls both High and Low speed fans with the Thermo switches. It removes a manual switch but also takes away your ability to turn the fans manually on High, you would only be able to default them to Low speed. Also with this setup, if the A/C is commanded on, the High speed fan would still be able to run with the manual switch in the Off position. So you would want to make sure the fan switch and the A/C switch are both shut off for water crossings. The only benefit to this is one less switch to wire because you already have the A/C switch to keep it On or Off.

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Unread 03-21-2013, 02:56 AM   #95
steff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steff View Post
See the thermostat plug.
The two fans run together, see above
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Unread 04-06-2013, 09:53 PM   #96
billybooster2
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If I had three relays and was trying to accomplish what you are trying to do, I would wire it one of two ways.

The following would give you a master On/Off for water crossings, both High and Low would be controlled by the Thermo switches and you would have a way to default the High speed fans On or give the A/C control of them. I have A/C Compressor Coil + listed in the diagram but it would just need any 12v input when the A/C is on. If your A/C is somehow a ground input, the relay and switch can easily be wired that way too.....


COIZ, thank you! I tried TWO things - leaving the VOLVO relay to do its job with a 30A fuse - fine for low volume, bad for high volume (airflow) - So, tried it with a 60A, no problem... Volvo works like a champ..

HOWEVER I ALSO set up YOUR system and it works flawlessly. So thank you again

The Volvo PLUS a 60A single fuse plus the BMW thermoswitch (195/205) works fine....for those that don't want to wire multiple relays.... the VOlvo 'thing' is all singing all dancing works like a charm.

For those that trust part stores to have relays, COIZ solution is more reliable, more 'buildable'. For those that want to cobble parts from a junkyard, volvo 'seems' to work high and low, with a contour using their resistor! Nuff said!!!
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Unread 04-07-2013, 02:31 PM   #97
turbogus
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My hat's off to Coiz and our comerad's of the same idiom. Taking the time over and over to help neophytes like myself and others of greater skill is sorely lacking these days it seems.
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
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Unread 04-07-2013, 10:28 PM   #98
billybooster2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbogus
My hat's off to Coiz and our comerad's of the same idiom. Taking the time over and over to help neophytes like myself and others of greater skill is sorely lacking these days it seems.
What he said ^^^^^
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Unread 04-08-2013, 10:05 AM   #99
turbogus
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I've finally pulled the stock shroud and the Hayden E fan that was part of the setup on 'Black Betty' when I first got her. Turns out that the Hayden fan circumference was only slightly larger than the twin Merc fans. Got the radiator out and compared the Merc Mystique fans/shroud and it looks like it will fit tight and completely cover the raditaor core. First bit of trimming was the top clip of the shroud to get tighter fit of the shroud.The idea being that air will follow the least path of resistance so I want a right tight fit compared to the previous setup...



Tonight hope to have energy enough after work to finalize trimming and taking more photos for the archive.

Update: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/co...43/index7.html
Sorry for not posting photos here but I've been called on being repetative so I'm hoping link posting will be okay.
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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Unread 05-11-2013, 08:37 AM   #100
turbogus
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After trimmng that top bracket the shroud slipped right in and although had to get a little creative with how I bolted the lower left corner this mod is as easy as many have said it is.



Now it's onto the wiring and a general cleanup of the wiring in the engine compartment using that Ford PDB I got a while back. Having sticker shock at how much those Maxi fuses go for, I went out to the boneyard and got a full complement of blade fuses and one 60 amp for the 70 amp relay that's going towards the fan setup. I also finally found the correct color of visors for 'Easy Bake' and ALL FOR FREE No, I didn't steal 'em.

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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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