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Unread 03-16-2011, 07:30 PM   #46
Jim1611
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Nice install Ned and it sounds like they're going to work great. Hey make sure the pictures on this thread are always visable, I will be referring back to it later on. Thanks!!

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Unread 03-23-2011, 02:21 PM   #47
WillyC24
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Shoot, now I think I ordered the wrong parts for the exact same setup (contour dual electric fans)....

I have this one: Painless 30102

Can someone point me to a product which will give me instant plug-and-play dual fan control?

I saw the post for the JEGS dual fan controls (185° On/170° Off for 180° thermostat), but there is also this one (200° On/185° Off for 195° thermostat).

Which thermostat is best, and would either of these be preferable to the one I currently have?
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Unread 03-24-2011, 02:07 AM   #48
Cutlass327
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Did you put some sort of reinforcement plate on the front of the WP pulley after you took the fan off? I had one on a donor engine for my Ranger - Turbo Coupes use electric fans. I imagine the flexing of the pulley could allow it to crack, and a dummy fan mount base would help support it for less flexing.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 03-25-2011, 11:31 PM   #49
nedmoore
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Did my first Highway trip with the Jeep today. Did a one hour highway trip. So far only rode around the hood....

On the highway it ran hotter! I guess because I was keeping up with traffic (around 70) temps were at 200. Exit the freeway and stop and go traffic and temps are at 180-190. What's up with that?
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Unread 03-26-2011, 05:12 PM   #50
Cutlass327
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Those large areas of the fan shroud where there really isn't anything is blocking your flow. I've seen some OEM fans that had those areas like that only they were cut out and flaps of rubber put on the back of the shroud. This allows air to blow the flaps open if need be, but the fans will pull them closed when at lower speeds. This will allow more airflow at highway speeds.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 06-28-2011, 12:37 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdsk8ter View Post
your package is in the mail if you need any help wiring it let me know I have a whopping 30 bucks into my setup (relays,wiring two switches and two surface temp switches) and it works great
Where'd you get the 2 temp switches? Everywhere I look temp sensors are like $36.00 each!

We need a thread in the Stickies for this. One that includes the simple 1 sensor and 2 relays for both on High, clear up to how to wire in the popular budget VSC.

Personally, I think one sensor for both on low and another for both on high would be ideal. I just need to know if I can rob some parts from donor vehicles for temp switches, or a budget friendly source for temp switches designed around a 195* t-stat system. I know Ford likes to use "idiot gauges", so I imagine the temp 'sensor' is a basic switch, that if it can turn on an idiot light or an idiot gauge, it can turn on a relay. I figure the idiot light is for overheating, so it could run the high speed, but the low speed is another question, Not sure about on/off temps for the idiot gauges..
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 07-08-2011, 11:15 PM   #52
rdsk8ter
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sorry for the delay they are simple surface temp sensors I picked up from Johnson controls HVAC company
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Unread 08-14-2011, 04:58 PM   #53
godrocksus1
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Can someone post a parts list for the wiring diagram in the beginning of this thread? I have all of the sensors and wiring from fom the donor car. Can't I somehow just use the ford stuff?
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Unread 08-06-2012, 10:05 AM   #54
turbogus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
If you have all the wiring going to the resistor and the fans, then you should have two main wires. A green with white and green with blue. If you give power to the green with white you will get dual low speed fans. If you supply power to the green with blue, you get dual high speed fans. Notice they are protected by a 60A fuse and need a minimum of 10 gauge wire.



If you are missing the wiring to the resistor then you likely have a green with yellow and a green with orange at the fans. Treat them as simple motors at that point, power and grounds, use relays. This is a good way to do it with the popular flex-a-lite controller. This would be for dual high speed fans.


And if you would like to have it wired with a three way switch for the option of on/off/auto, you would wire it like this.
Far out! That controller appears to be the same critter I presently have controlling that 13" fan on mine now got it from NAPA;



Now I just got to figure out how to rig a slow start gizmo and I can start bench building this.
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Unread 08-07-2012, 10:36 AM   #55
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THANKS FOR ALL THE DIAGRAMS! Now, what parts and how can I incorporate a soft start for these fans? Thanks in advance for responses and a lift of the lynch lid !

Gus
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Unread 08-07-2012, 11:10 AM   #56
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All you need are two standard 30/40A relays. I picked up a relay box with the cover from a salvage yard for $5.



This one has three main relays and 2 mini relays. You can use one for each fan and still have three left over for fog lamps, headlamps, high beams, etc.,.



As far as a soft start, you can't do that with that style of controller. You can achieve the same effect as a soft start if you wire in a capacitor in the circuit just like you would for a big stereo amplifier. I didn't bother with the capacitor as the momentary dip in my volt gauge is not a big deal to me and even helps me to see when the fans are turning on and off while driving down the road when you can't hear them.
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Unread 08-07-2012, 12:33 PM   #57
turbogus
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Thanks so much for your speedy respone Coiz! You da Man!
Perhaps I'm being too cautious or it's the inner anal Marine in me but I've read in a magazine a while back and a few posts here and there that as far as the fan motors were concerned the instant on was hard on 'em so soft start was a good feature. Also it occurrs that since I'd be wiring in relays for protection of the control wiring and this entire procedure is intended to protect against overheating, it follows in my mind to take the protection all the way. I guess now you know how my mind works!
Only now learing how capacitors work in this situation, if a line carrying DC voltage has ripples or spikes in it, a big capacitor can even out the voltage by absorbing the peaks and filling in the valleys. IF this is so and the capacitor eventually discharges wouldn't it dump it's charge once it reaches capacity? (Like bang goes the wiring?) Would that capacitor wire in between the relays and the fans, or before the relays?
Sorry for all the ameteurish questions, I'm no one's electrician.
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Unread 08-07-2012, 06:21 PM   #58
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Any of you guys know how to take 3 relays and make a Low to High step up relay system? I am going to run a mkVIII fan and would like it to come on at 170ish and turn to high at 195. But that set-up requires a step up, as high draws a ton of voltage at first. Not sure if this is the right place to ask.

Thanks
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Unread 08-08-2012, 01:55 PM   #59
turbogus
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Where's that icon for slapping my forehead?

Only NOW do I get it! That resistor (R27) on the shroud provides the slow speed and I don't imagine that's going to jolt the fan motors as I feared! So just a pair of 30/40 or 70 amp relay ahead of the whole shooting match should do the trick then! whew! ....unless I'm wrong again !

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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
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Unread 08-08-2012, 04:47 PM   #60
turbogus
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BTW this fan cleaned up really well using De-solv-it and some ArmorAll

Before;


and after;



...not that I'm building some trailer queen
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