My CJ Wont Stay Running - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
Dustin Maschino
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Red face My CJ Wont Stay Running

I have an 83 CJ-7 that will start but wont stay running. It idles fine for about 5 mintutes and then it will just die as if you turned off the key. My grandfather had a CJ-5 that would do the same thing. It's not the coil distributor or spark plugs...Does anyone else have this problem?

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post #2 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 11:51 AM
4wheeler4CJ
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If it is cold when you first start it, and that is when it runs for 5 minutes, it is most likely a carburetor problem. What usually happens is you get a vaccuum leak or you pick up some sediment in the carb bowls.

The reason it may run for 5 minutes when cold, is that the choke and fast idle are on then, and it is enough to keep it running, once the fast idle kicks down to normal idle RPM range, it will stall. Will it stay running when you rev it? If so, this is most likely the problem.

If so, check your vaccuum hoses and fittings for leaks, especially any that are near the exhaust manifold, they deteriorate quicker than elsewhere from the heat. If no problems there, then check your fuel bowl for sediment, if there is any dirt at all, rebuild your carburetor, and that will most likely fix it.

One important thing to consider: The carb body is known to wear at the place where the trottle rod passes thru, and that can cause a vaccuum leak, most rebuild kits do not provide the bushing to replace there. Sometimes a new rebuilt carburetor is your best bet. Auto Zone carries Holley and one other brand, for roughly $250.

Or you could upgrade to a Weber, they are nice but about $460!!!
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post #3 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
Dustin Maschino
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it has a fairly new weber carb on it..
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post #4 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 12:04 PM
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Not a stock replacement right? Is it one of the Weber "upgrade" carbs? If so, it could still be sediment in the bowl, or a vaccuum leak, but probably not the wear in the throttle body.
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
Dustin Maschino
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i know its a weber, im not sure what model or anything...
would sediment cause it to shut off automatically without even sputtering...
ive had a few friends look at it and they thought it was electrical...
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 12:22 PM
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My friend just got an '86, and it would always die at idle, I drove it, and anytime you let off the gas to stop and push the clutch in, it died. It would start right up, then die, unless you constantly revved it or were driving. He had the carb rebuilt, and that was it, idles beautifully now. The rebuilder said there was about 1/8" of sediment in the bowl, all it would take is a speck to get in a jet, and it would cause stalling at idle.

Good Luck, hope you figure it out!
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 02:46 PM
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I had the same problem on my Jeep after a rough weekend of 4 wheeling to fix granted I more than likely should have taking it apart to fix the carb I instead removed the 2 jet screws on the bottom of the carb and blew it out with carb cleaner cleaned off both the screws and and put it back together and have not had a problem since then. When taking the screw out remember to screw them all the way in counting the full turns and then when you place them back in turn till snug and come back out the same turns to ut them back in the orig. setting

82 CJ7 36" superswampers. SOA ,2 1/2 inch lift springs and a whole lot of dreams. My baby.
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post #8 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 06:28 PM
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Check the fuel filter also, it could be plugged.

1982 cj7. Frame off. shell valley kevlar body, stainless hinges, Bestop seats and supertop, KC titanium lights, Homemade swing out tire carrier with spare front wheel bearings/hub, Built 304,DUI,Edelbrock shorty headers with dual stainless 21/2 tubes into incynerator cans 21/4 dumped out the back,Edelbrock 600cfm, performer intake and cam, Borgeson lower column, Centerforce clutch, NV-4500, Dana 300 w/custom built twin stick, Homade 1/4" steel skid plate, 2.5 soft ride w/ 1" shackle lift, 33x12.5 mtr's. Stainless fuel and brake lines, Braided hoses. more...
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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it has a new fuel filter on it...
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post #10 of 13 Old 03-12-2002, 11:22 PM
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My roommate has been having a problem similar to that with his. His Jeep has a chevy 350 with a Holley 750cfm vacuum secondary. It will just die while he is driving it and then he can't get it to restart for some time. We changed his ignition box and that seems to have worked so far. Other possibilities could be the pick up coil or even possibly the coil itself. We tried the pick up coil but it didn't work. That is why we tried the ignition box. If that didn't work we were going to try the coil. Check your grounds. Those might be causing a problem. Probably not but it is a possibility. My $0.02.

'85 CJ7 258 w/Weber Carb and Nutter Bypass. Dana 44's F&R, 3.73 gears with Trac-Loc rear. Always looking for peoples $0.02.
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post #11 of 13 Old 03-13-2002, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
Dustin Maschino
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i have replaced the pickup coil and the coil...im going to have someone look at the carb sometime this week...if they dont think anything is wrong, i might look at the ignition switch or box...
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post #12 of 13 Old 03-14-2002, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
Dustin Maschino
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i figured out what was wrong and i thought id tell everyone else incase this ever happens to them. I took off the computer box (brains) and there was 2 spots in the back where you could see "bubbles" in the silicon casing. they were from 2 wires that would get hot and split, and after the silicon that they were in cooled, they would come back together...
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-15-2002, 07:37 AM
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Thanks for the update! (Doesn't affect me, luckily, as I stay with the pre-computer models, but still good info for everyone else! )

Certainly doesn't sound like your common problem, LOL!
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