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Unread 11-29-2012, 05:59 PM   #16
BagusJeep
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No, it sounds like the switch and fuse box are ruled ut, it is all functioning as the Jeep gods intended.

So you have no problems with the solenoid, alternator or switch and the fuse box is showing the right voltages.

That only leaves a possibility that you have a crossed wire somewhere and have the coil +ve linked to a red wire, not a red with tracer.

red wires are hot all the time, and can be found running from the battery to the alterantor (via the solenoid) and up to the fuse box through the bulkhead connector.

If you have a wire crossed with a Red then at rest, no matter what the key is doing, you should have voltage at the coil +ve. Could you confirm what the voltage is doing at the coil in all key positions, starting with it at rest and then with the engine running?

Then, when you have it refusing to turn off put the key in Stop and check for voltage at the fuse box. If the coil is now wired seperately from the ignition circuit then you should see no voltage at the fuse box on the IGN LPS fuse but have voltage at the coil.

Can you run through the ignition circuit wiring and check it is as per the diagram I posted earlier? In particular check you are connected to the I post on the solenoid and not the main feed and that the red with tracer wires actually go back to the ignition switch and are not spliced on to a red wire somewhere.

The timing does not matter and you have a Nuttered Duraspark ignition and Motorcraft distributor? The Nutter merely moves the sensor wires, the orange and purple. Can you remember any other wiring changes made?

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Unread 11-29-2012, 06:33 PM   #17
DENVAR03
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Thanks again
i will run through your checks tomorrow.

Dennis
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Unread 11-30-2012, 02:03 PM   #18
DENVAR03
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Bagus
i rechecked what you said,key on: Power to red/wht.on coil,and tored/wht .on sol.,nd red#10 wire on alt.also red#10 wireto alt. Lug is hot with key off.power to both fuses,with eng. Running power to coil also with eng. Running.no power to fuses,with key in off position.funny thing today,when i started it,and turned key off,it shut down,next time it shut down after about 3 seconds,and on next try,it took about 8 seconds,to turn off.what the hell could that be???????.

Dennis
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Unread 12-03-2012, 07:22 AM   #19
DENVAR03
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HI
CAN ANYONE,LOOK AT MY ENGINE RUNNING POST,I AM DYING TO GET PAST THIS ISSUE,AND TAKE IT OUT .IT RUNS FINE,BUT SHUTS OFF,AFTER A FEW SECONDS,AS LISTED IN MY LAST POST.

THANKS DENNIS
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Unread 12-03-2012, 09:03 AM   #20
keith460
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It was suggested before.... add the diode.

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Unread 12-03-2012, 11:18 AM   #21
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENVAR03
HI
CAN ANYONE,LOOK AT MY ENGINE RUNNING POST,I AM DYING TO GET PAST THIS ISSUE,AND TAKE IT OUT .IT RUNS FINE,BUT SHUTS OFF,AFTER A FEW SECONDS,AS LISTED IN MY LAST POST.

THANKS DENNIS
Use a test light and probe the plus of the coil with engine running. It should've dim. Then shut off engine and see if bulb is still on. And if so is it bright or dim. If its dim then goes out as engine stops I'd conceder replacing the ignition switch or at least looking at its adjustment.

You eliminated the diode thing by pulling out the two wire connector and the engine stayed running.

Biggest part of electrical troubleshooting is knowing what your looking at.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 01:52 PM   #22
DENVAR03
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THANKS

I WILL TEST THAT TOMORROW.I ALREADY REPLACED THE KEY SWITCH,ON MY COLUMN,WHEN I PUT THE BRACKET,THAT HOLDS THE 2 MAIN PLUGS,THERE IS SLOTTED MOVEMENT ,WHERE ROD GOES IN TO ADJUST TENSION ON KEY,SO IT SPRINGS BACK,AFTER STARTING.COULD THAT NEED ADJUSTMENT,IT SEEMS TO SPRING BACK OK.

DENNIS
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Unread 12-03-2012, 05:54 PM   #23
86cj74.2L
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If your problem started after your switch replacement you found your smoking gun. It's been 10 years since I messed with that adjustment. There should be something on it.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 02:33 AM   #24
BagusJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENVAR03 View Post
Bagus
i rechecked what you said,key on: Power to red/wht.on coil,and tored/wht .on sol.,nd red#10 wire on alt.also red#10 wireto alt. Lug is hot with key off.power to both fuses,with eng. Running power to coil also with eng. Running.no power to fuses,with key in off position.funny thing today,when i started it,and turned key off,it shut down,next time it shut down after about 3 seconds,and on next try,it took about 8 seconds,to turn off.what the hell could that be???????.

Dennis
no power to fuses,with key in off position.

Almost certain this is not the switch and it has to be the feedback from the alternator. I know you tried unplugging the alternator before and it carried on anyway but it still looks like the likely problem.

Time for the diode.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 01:26 PM   #25
DENVAR03
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Bagus &cj74

i checked,what cj74 suggested,and here is results.coil wire:engine off.key in off pos. No power.key in on pos.power dim.engine running:key in,power bright,key out no power.i also loosened the slide bracket on column,that puts tension on key ,so it springs back,in a couple of different positions,and same thing happens!!!!.guess i should give up,and buy the diode.would of liked to make it work without it,but "tap out"

thanks guys

dennis
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Unread 12-05-2012, 01:15 PM   #26
DENVAR03
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86cj74
you said that if with key on,and engine not running,if my test light reads dim,it could be the ign. Switch.that is what i get from testing!!.should i try adjusting that key tension bracket on column again.??

Dennis
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Unread 12-05-2012, 01:36 PM   #27
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I don't know how long you let it run before you turn it off-this might make sense or not dependent on how hot the engine gets before shut off.

Are you running an electric fan? If not ignore the rest...

Check how the fuel pump/fans are wired in. I have a similar issue with mine. I bought it that way, the previous owner has the electric fan and fuel pump wired on the same fuse(incorrectly). My fans are always on-no tstat connected. When I shut the jeep off the fans keep spinning, acting as generator of sorts and back feeding the fuel pump for 5 seconds or so after shutoff until they stop spinning. However, if you are running an electric tstat not wired to the ignition switch the fans would continue running until they reach their shutoff temp. Which could take a few minutes before the pump shuts down if the engine is hot enough...

This doesn't sound like your issue, but in the interest of grasping at straws...
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Unread 12-05-2012, 06:07 PM   #28
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This is what I mean.........

You probe the + of the coil to ground with your test light and its a dim bulb. That means at least anyway that the full voltage start contact from the starter solenoid is not the problem.

While probing the + terminal with the engine running and a helper turns the key to off. If bulb stays dim it's the ignition circuit going through the resistor wire.

Since you replaced the switch I'd start with trying to adjust or readjust it and see where that gets you.

I don't know why you replaced the switch. Or if your problem only showed up after you changed the switch.

I do know I fiddled with that switch when I replaced the one on the 86 a few times till I was happy.
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Unread 12-05-2012, 07:08 PM   #29
BagusJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENVAR03 View Post
86cj74
you said that if with key on,and engine not running,if my test light reads dim,it could be the ign. Switch.that is what i get from testing!!.should i try adjusting that key tension bracket on column again.??

Dennis
A correctly wired CJ will show a dim bulb with the key ON.

That is because the ignition is feeding through the ballast resistir and you are getting about 7V at the coil. This was how it was designed.

In START the resistor is bypassed and full battery voltage is fed from the solenoid to the coil. This helps starting. You will therefore only have a bright bulb in START.
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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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Unread 12-05-2012, 07:57 PM   #30
DENVAR03
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Thanks bagus,

it looks like i will get the diode!!!!!!!,don't know of anything to check next.

Dennis
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