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Unread 11-25-2012, 01:20 PM   #1
DENVAR03
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My 86 cj7 will not shut off with key switch

HELLO GUYS
I AM IN THE LAST STEP,IN MY FRAME OFF RESTO. ON MY 86 CJ79PICTURES COMING SOON!!!!!HOWEVER I HOPE MY LAST PROBLEM. ENGINE COMPLETLY REBUILT,A COMPLETE NUTTER,AND A NEW WEBER CARB.I SET THE TIMING 8@BDC,AND THE JEEP STARTED RIGHT UP,IDLES LIKE A NEW JEEP,AND RUNS GREAT!!!MY PROBLEM,IS THE KEY SWITCH,DOES NOT SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN,I HAVE TO PULL THE COIL WIRE OFF.I CAN'T FIGURE,OUT WHAT IS WRONG.I BROUGHT THE ORANGE ,AND PURPLE WIRES FROM DIST ,OVER TO ING. MODULE.COIL ALWAYS IS HOT.ANYONE KNOW WHERE I SHOULD LOOK TO FIX THIS PROBLEM.

THANKS DENNIS

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Unread 11-25-2012, 02:30 PM   #2
palmtreejeeper
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Did you use a painless wiring harness? On my dads restoration we used a painless wiring kit, follwed all the schematics, and found a thread on here that the key ignition switch wires need to be switched from what the painless schematic showed. We turned ours on, ran it, and when it came time to shut it off, well it didn't. It was very funny. He just suffocated the carb and it shut off. I'll try and see if I can find the thread for you if this helps.
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Unread 11-25-2012, 05:55 PM   #3
DENVAR03
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Thanks

someone,had a thread,saying i should check the solonoid,and alt. Wiring also.coil stays hot,even after key is out.
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Unread 11-25-2012, 06:12 PM   #4
BagusJeep
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If your solenoid was sticking the starter would carry on turning. You have not got a problem with it. However to eliminat eit you could try pulling the red with trecer wire off the I tab on the solenoid. This is your 12V battery voltage feed that should only be energised in Start.

Below is a diagram of the ignition circuits. If you have it hooked up properly then you are seeing some voltage frm the switch in Stop. Look at your fuse box and check you do not have voltage in parts of the box that should be free of voltage in Stop. For instance that all your gauges turn off when you turn the key to Stop.

You could also get under there and check for voltage at the column connector on the red with tracer wires in Stop. This will confirm or deny that the switch is feeding the voltage.

The other possibility is that it is feedback from the alternator and you may need a diode in there. You can check this by disconnecting the wires at the back of the alternator.
84-86fuseboxsch-copy.jpg   schematic-ignition-layout.png  
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Unread 11-25-2012, 09:21 PM   #5
ceej7
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same problem with mine after hei swap. search for diode in forum. a $1.99 fix. radio shack has them in stock.part # should come up on search also. if you pull alt wire and it shuts off , a diode will cure it . a diode is like a check valve, it only lets electricity flow 1 way.
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Unread 11-25-2012, 11:58 PM   #6
BagusJeep
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If you look at the left hand side of the partial wiring diagram above you will see that it feeds the ignition and alternator. It basically is the Excite signal to tell the alternator to perform. On some alternators you can get a return signal on the Excite wire and as long as the alternator turns it energises that wire which feeds the ignition. A diode will make it one way.
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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
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Unread 11-26-2012, 02:27 AM   #7
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceej7 View Post
same problem with mine after hei swap. search for diode in forum. a $1.99 fix. radio shack has them in stock.part # should come up on search also. if you pull alt wire and it shuts off , a diode will cure it . a diode is like a check valve, it only lets electricity flow 1 way.
This is a common problem with the CJ engine electrical system especially when upgraded to an aftermarket CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition) like MSD or Mallory. The cure is to install a diode, as mentioned above, between the 'excite' wire from the alternator. Radio shack has the diode for cheap and is p/n:276-1144.

You can read why and how to install the diode at the bottom of this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ig.../#post12700204
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Unread 11-26-2012, 03:22 AM   #8
86cj74.2L
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+1 on starting at removing the red wire with the white stripe on it from the starter solenoid next time it will not shut off.

Happened to the 86 once and what a head scratcher...........I kept telling Grammy the jeep runs so good it doesn't want to shut off.

As a note: watch how long you leave the ignition on without running the engine. For whatever reason it overloads the duracrap module and will fry it. Sometimes taking the coil with it.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 02:07 PM   #9
DENVAR03
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Hi
i rechecked wiring,and it looks ok.i tried pulling the 2 wire connector off alt.,when running,and it still runs!!!!.also i tried pulling the red/wht. Wire off solenoid,but engine still runs.had to pull dist wire to coil to shut down.what could be wrong?????>
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Unread 11-28-2012, 04:34 PM   #10
86cj74.2L
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All that's really left then it a bad ignition switch or one that needs adjusted.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 05:54 PM   #11
BagusJeep
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Ok, you have elinimated the alternator feedback and the sticking solenoid theories. That is progress!!!!

You now need to check the operation of the ignition switch. They can go out of adjustment with that clunky sector and rack operation.

Open up the column connector. If you have a continuity tester (basically a bulb, battery and two wires) you will want to look at the diagram I posted above and see if the connector (obviously the one that connects to the column and not the other side) gives the same continuity.

The Red wire is the incoming feed. Hook one end up to here. Now probe those wires in Stop, ACCY, On and Start and see what is connected at each stage.

You should have two Red with tracer wires, they will be connected to the Red wire in On and Start but disconnected in Stop and ACCY. If your continuity tester shows they are connected in STOP you have identified the area as being the switch assembly.

Alternatively you could use a 12V test bulb and probe the fuse box to see what is live in Stop, Accy, On and Start. IGNLPS and BUSETBELT are the ones which should mimic the ignition switch and only be live in Run and Start.
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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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Unread 11-28-2012, 07:34 PM   #12
DENVAR03
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thanks,i will test wires tomorrow,and let you know
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Unread 11-28-2012, 08:58 PM   #13
jamie0921
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X2 on the diode
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Unread 11-29-2012, 02:26 PM   #14
DENVAR03
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BAGUS
I CHECKED MY WIRING TODAY,AND THIS IS WHAT I FOUND.THE #19 RED WIRE,ON MY COLUMN,IS HOT WITH KEY IN ALL POSITIONS,THE 2- RED/WHT. WIRES,ARE ONLY HOT,WITH KEY ON.AS FOR THE FUSES,THEY ARE ONLY HOT,WITH KEY ON.WHAT CAN I CHECK NEXT??.COULD IT BE WITH MY NUTTER??.

THANKS DENNIS

PS
MY ENGINE IS NOT TIMED TO 8BTC. YET,JUST CLOSE SO I COULD GET IT RUNNING,THEN I FOUND THIS KEEP RUNNING PROBLEM.DOES THAT MATTER??.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 05:43 PM   #15
Turtle71
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Have the mechanicals involved with the ignition switch been ruled out? Sector gear in my column got stipped on mine causing this same problem.
Maybe even the witch itself.
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