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Unread 04-21-2012, 12:40 PM   #61
SonicR1
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Ho-dang!!! Big stopping power!!! It will be nice when she gets her license, then she can shuttle the rest around!!!

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[COLOR="Red"]... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….[/COLOR]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sonics-05-tj-build-1168663/#post10985489"][COLOR="yellow"]The TJ[/COLOR][/URL]
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sonics-74-cj5-build-1106795/"][COLOR="DarkOrange"]1974 CJ5 BUILD THREAD[/COLOR][/URL]
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Unread 04-22-2012, 06:51 PM   #62
mvigo
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Time for me to enter Skerr's official faux pas thread instead of this one.

First, the good news, the original paint is indeed code 4C or Ice Blue Poly, PPG paint code #3524. I was able to finally read the tag behind the vacuum booster once I removed the booster from the firewall to install the Vanco Hydroboost. Some of you out there were curious about the color so I have finally solved that mystery. So I got that going for me, which is nice.

Now for the mistakes...as I am rolling along following Van's step by step directions I am feeling more and more confident as I check off each item completed. Well, almost from the get go I snapped the metal portion of the return line from the power steering pump to steering gear box trying to unbolt it, and as I come to find out, it didn't even need to be removed!

Fast forward to cutting the supplied hoses for the pressure line and return line to fit that is supplied in the kit and dumb a@# me cuts to fit the return line for the pressure line. So now I need to go to Napa and buy new line to complete this task. The hydroboost is bolted to the firewall, the M/C has been bench bled so all I need to do is hook up the brake lines, return lines and pressure lines.

At this point 2 other issues need to be resolved:

1. the brake pedal has zero play in it and it should have about an 1.5".
2. the brake lines need to be modified or rebent as they don't line up with the M/C as it sits now.

I am done for the day and I will call Van tomorrow.
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1985 CJ-7, fuel injected 258, 2.5" Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Lift, 1" Body lift, Crabtree Shackle Hangers, T-5, Dana 300 w/ 4:1 Teralow kit, Dana 30, AMC 20 w/1 piece axle, 3.73 's with Detroit Truetrac front and rear, riding on 32x11.5x15" Cooper Discoverer STT mud terrains
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Unread 04-22-2012, 08:37 PM   #63
Jim1611
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Would the lift gate on the top open if you turn the jack 180?

With no play in the brake pedal I'm wondering if the connecting rod is too long or needs adjusting.
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Unread 04-27-2012, 08:56 PM   #64
mvigo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Would the lift gate on the top open if you turn the jack 180?

With no play in the brake pedal I'm wondering if the connecting rod is too long or needs adjusting.
Jim,

the lift gate wouldn't open either way you mount the jack as the jack is just too long.

The brake pedal was adjusted by making 1/4" shims to move the hydroboost out towards the front of the Jeep per Van and that puts the brake pedal more in line with how it should be. I went ahead and POR-15'd the M/C so once that dries all I have to do is bench bleed and install. I have hooked up everything else. A few pictures:

a comparison of the stock vacuum boost vs. the Vanco hydroboost:



mounted as a test fit, does the pressure line going over the radiator support rod circled pose a problem?



M/C drying:



Overall, the install was very straightforward. When installing the Vanco Hydroboost you do NOT have to take off the return line that goes from the power steering pump to the gear box. I did and I broke the metal line doing it and had to buy a new one. Because I have a manual transmission I needed to shim out the hydroboost 1/4" of an inch to get the needed play in the brake pedal. The last PITA was to get the cotter pin back into the hole that keeps the connecting rod fastened to the brake pedal. Not much room up behind the steering column to finesse that in. Once I get the M/C installed, fill power steering pump up and bleed brakes (if needed) I will report back on how much improvement in braking I notice.

Lastly, if anyone wants/needs the OEM vacuum booster brake setup it is all yours for the cost of shipping. I had mushy brakes when I took it off so I suppose the seals were going...P/M me if you care.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 09:10 AM   #65
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Mike I'd try to find a fitting with a 90 in it instead of having the line over the grill support. It's going to rub a hole in it. You could make a sleeve to go over it if you have to to stop that though but going under the support would be better.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:01 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Mike I'd try to find a fitting with a 90 in it instead of having the line over the grill support. It's going to rub a hole in it. You could make a sleeve to go over it if you have to to stop that though but going under the support would be better.
I will get on that Jim, thanks...it had me up all night thinking about it!
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Unread 05-06-2012, 05:42 PM   #67
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Just about wrapped up the Vanco Hydroboost upgrade. All I can say is "night and day" difference in stopping power. Today I was able to finish up all the plumbing, bleed the power steering box, bleed the brakes at the M/C and test drive. Brakes work great but there are a few issues I need to resolve. One, is the brake lights are always on. Obviously, that is not right. I have about 1.5" of play in the brake pedal before the brake is engaged. I had to shim out the hydroboost 1/4" from the firewall to get the play per Van's instructions (before I shimmed out there was no play at all). So, the play is right in the pedal, the brakes seem to work great, I just can't get the rear brake lights to go off when the brake is not engaged. Also, the power steering every once in awhile feels like I need to fight it a little in the turns...not right either. And, lastly, my main battery seems to have died on me. Both my main and auxillary battery are 6 year gel types. Time to replace both or just the main?

Here are before and after photos of the engine bay with the OEM vacuum booster and then the new Hydroboost:



and the installed hydroboost from Vanco Power & Brake:



My brain is shot, so unless someone has a suggestion or 2, I will call Van up tomorrow to figure out the 2 issues I have. I was also able to take my hardtop off for the season and that is always a big deal around my house! Enjoy the rest of the weekend...
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Unread 05-06-2012, 07:31 PM   #68
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Cool Beans, Mike! Hope you get it figured out quickly. Good service from your batteries too.
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Unread 05-06-2012, 07:47 PM   #69
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Glad to see the hydro installed. Don't have any idea about it affecting your steering, maybe another phone call to is in order. I'd ckeck the other batteries too. Hey you gonna let that hose rub on the grill support?
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Unread 05-06-2012, 07:56 PM   #70
lucdog
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On your brake lights, the switch may have some adjustment left, or do what I did. I used a 5/8" socket with a 6" extension ( I think it was 6) and placed it between the firewall and tab welded to the pedal. As the pedal is pushed down it bends the tab, do this a little at a time. That darn switch is tough to get to.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
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Unread 05-06-2012, 07:58 PM   #71
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Mike, Wonder if when the pedal was too high if it pushed the brake light switch back away from the pedal contact up under the dash. Could be as simple as adjusting it.
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Unread 05-06-2012, 08:05 PM   #72
mvigo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Glad to see the hydro installed. Don't have any idea about it affecting your steering, maybe another phone call to is in order. I'd ckeck the other batteries too. Hey you gonna let that hose rub on the grill support?
I looked for an 90* elbow but it would have to be custom made...I will watch it but I don't think the hose will rub...

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
On your brake lights, the switch may have some adjustment left, or do what I did. I used a 5/8" socket with a 6" extension ( I think it was 6) and placed it between the firewall and tab welded to the pedal. As the pedal is pushed down it bends the tab, do this a little at a time. That darn switch is tough to get to.

Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Mike, Wonder if when the pedal was too high if it pushed the brake light switch back away from the pedal contact up under the dash. Could be as simple as adjusting it.
great suggestions, I will take a look manana...
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Unread 05-07-2012, 12:54 PM   #73
SonicR1
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As for the batteries, I asked that question once for the batteries in my boat. The guy said if one is gone, the other will go soon or is not 100%… which will lead to the early death of a new battery. Don't know if he was just trying to make money or what. Come out to Bass Pro Shops, they 1000 cca batteries for like $110, and I think they are gel… they are deep cycle for sure. Not sure if they are any good, though…

As for top off… I'm jealous. I have had my top off several times so far this year, but now amidst the height of allergy season, I need to keep it on in an attempt of saving my poor lungs!!!
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[COLOR="Red"]... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….[/COLOR]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sonics-05-tj-build-1168663/#post10985489"][COLOR="yellow"]The TJ[/COLOR][/URL]
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sonics-74-cj5-build-1106795/"][COLOR="DarkOrange"]1974 CJ5 BUILD THREAD[/COLOR][/URL]
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Unread 05-08-2012, 04:56 PM   #74
mvigo
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OK, OK...where does it end? Brake light switch just needs to be adjusted, easy, just need to do it. The steering issue has been diagnosed as an old, underwhelming power steering pump that can't put enough flow and pressure out there to handle the steering and the hydroboost. Easy solution, AGR power steering pump! On order, should see it in the next week or so. Also, battery is dead as a door and I will replace both of them at the same time. JeepHammer answered a thread on all you need to know about batteries (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ba...group-1214739/, so I will be following his advice...anyone beg to differ?
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Unread 05-08-2012, 05:59 PM   #75
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No first hand knowledge on the internals of batteries. I do have 2 yellow top Optimas. I don't feel there holding a charge like they should.

I read that thread when it was active. My next batteries will be the type JH suggested in that thread.

My diesel truck uses interstate batteries, I got 6 years out of the original Motorcraft ones.

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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