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Unread 08-25-2012, 06:18 PM   #16
dan-cj7
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Following with interest. Keep up the good work.

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1984 CJ7 - Under construction
4.6L stroker with MPI & AX15 with D300
OME 2.5" YJ springs
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/dans-downunder-84-cj7-build-1299387/
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Unread 08-26-2012, 08:45 AM   #17
justjeeps
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Are you planning to do the usual mods to make the YJ tub more like the CJ?
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Unread 08-26-2012, 02:03 PM   #18
scooter71954
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More work today on the tailgate area:

When I picked the tub from the freight yard the forklift driver dented the lower valence where the hinges mount.

I mocked up the tailgate and drilled holes for the hinge screws. i then elongated the holes on the bottom of the valence to allow insertion of reinforcing plates nut I made from some scraps left over when I removed the PO front bumper.

The using various tools, including a breaker bar of all things, I massaged most of the dent out. This is thick metal here so it took some time. The result was very little filler was needed:

Prepped and primed...looks serviceable:

I also cleaned up the latch stops/cable support brackets:

After I paint the brackets, I am going to mount them with rivets and panel adhesive since I don't have power for a welder in my meager shop.
To end the morning, I cut out the passenger side for the gas filler trim:

Next up...tailgate mount and enlarge blower motor hole.
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Unread 09-02-2012, 01:09 PM   #19
scooter71954
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Tailgate installed:




Almost ready to meet the frame!
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This is not a restoration! My goal is stop the rust, mechanically sound and easy on the pocketbook.
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Unread 09-02-2012, 01:23 PM   #20
motiv8ya
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Looking good!
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Unread 09-02-2012, 03:58 PM   #21
VACJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter71954 View Post
Finished the firewall paint today. Painted the "jamb" for the hood/fenders.
Looks great Scooter! Are you aware of a bunch of holes you do not need on the YJ firewall? And a couple that need to be fixed. I am in the process now of filling some and fixing others.

The one battery nut is in the wrong place for a CJ battery tray. The speedo cable hole needs to be opened up to about 7/8 for CJ speedo cable. The holes in blue are not on a CJ firewall.
file-14.jpg   file-13.jpg  
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Unread 09-02-2012, 07:08 PM   #22
scooter71954
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VACJ7,

thanks for the heads up on the holes. I am actually using a YJ battery tray. The big oval hole is going to get a sheet metal cover plate. I will look into rubber grommets for the others.
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Unread 09-11-2012, 03:01 PM   #23
scooter71954
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I got sidetracked on YJ tub mods that i put in another thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/yj...stall-1413567/

I have much to do this week in prep for putting the tub on the frame this weekend. My daughter and future son-in-law are coming this weekend to help instead of next weekend. They will be here more to call 911 if something goes wrong than muscle. I learned many years ago the value of having a witness available. When I was 12, I was helping my step-grandfather work on a tractor. He was under the tractor with an open end wrench, the wrench slipped and one of the points hit his right eye direct. Split his eye! It was up to me to run to the house to get help. He lost his eye. Wear those safety glasses! As an aside, he took great delight in popping his glass eye out for years to scare the younger grandchildren.

Anyway, when I installed the transmission and transfer case I made a wooden "gantry" to support a chain lift:

It was cheap and worked out great. Two doubled 2x4 uprights with three legs on the bottom sorta like |--. The legs parallel to the body are one-piece. the third leg is hinged for easy storage but when setup at 90 degrees to the other legs gives me three point stability. A pair of 2x6s nailed together makes the beam that supports the chain fall. attach to tub, hoist, remove trailer and roll the frame into place. Sounds simple...

So I have to finish my pre-install this week:

Trim body mount tubes and install mounts
backup light wiring and 4x4 light wiring
GL-4 in trans and xfer case; GL-5 in rear diff.
mockup heat shields for muffler/cat
chase tub mount nuts with 7/16" and 1/2" taps
Wish me luck!

Also thinking of getting some cheap 7/16" and 1/2" bolts, cutting the heads off and using as alignment pins front and rear. I did this when installing my transmission and it worked great. Thoughts?
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Unread 09-12-2012, 12:16 AM   #24
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Sounds like a good plan Scooter. And if you work it right, your SIL will end up doing the work!!
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Unread 09-14-2012, 03:57 PM   #25
scooter71954
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I cut down the body mount tubes today and set the bushings in place. Filled the transmission and t-case with GL-4. Chased the body mount nuts with taps. Bolted lifting straps to the floor of the tub using front and rear seat mount holes. Cut the heads off of 2 1/2" bolts and 2 7/16" bolts and installed into the front and rear body mounts to use as guide pins when lowering the tub. Attached the speedo cable to the t-case. Attached a partially finished back-up wiring and 4WD indicator switch (yes you can have a "Emergency Drive" light with a Dana 20) wiring loom. I made the wiring loom long and will cut to fit when the front wiring loom goes in.

Tomorrow morning we will setup the gantry, attach the chain hoist and lift the tub off the trailer. Then we will roll the chassis under, lower and attach. Wish us luck that all goes smoothly. My daughter will be taking photos and I will post tomorrow. I have been working on this since November 19, 2011 and am getting excited to have almost a one piece Jeep again!
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Unread 09-15-2012, 02:21 PM   #26
scooter71954
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Tub install this morning...
Setup gantry:

Attach to lifting straps

In the air and trailer moved:

Lowering

Obstruction at YJ heat shield, grinder time:

Almost a jeep!
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Unread 09-15-2012, 04:00 PM   #27
scoutboater
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Wow Scooter, this is looking good! Keep up the good work!
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Unread 09-15-2012, 11:22 PM   #28
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Yes, Sir!! ^^^ What he said! Keep up the good work.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 02:09 PM   #29
scooter71954
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Continued on the bolt up of the body today. It appears the damn forklift also bent the flange under the rear valence and it is hitting the gas tank not allowing me to line up all the holes. Disgust!!! About 1/4" is all I need.

So tomorrow morning I drop the damn tank, use the BFH on the flange and continue. Something told me to not install the tank first! Oh well, it will make those inner tub mounts easier to reach. LOL.

At least I won't be dropping the full tank in the parking lot of a closed K-Mart North of Miami as i had to do to change the fuel pump on my TJ, on a Sunday with LEO checking me out every 10 minutes.

One step forward, two steps back! Now I'm hoping I left enough room to get those hose clamps loose...
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Unread 09-21-2012, 03:21 PM   #30
scooter71954
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Not much to report. Decided to lift the tub to correct the flange issue instead of dropping the tank. Don't tell my daughter I did this alone! LOL
Rigged the chain hoist like a old cargo ship crane with an upright against the wall at the bottom supported by by a binder strap on the top. . The lift was really easy since I had long bolts in all the mounts it went straight up. Vise grips were used to bend the flange back into place. When i lowered the tub, she sat right down in place...mostly. Still some issues. The switch I was going to use to activate the "Emergency Drive" light from the Dana 20 proved to be too long and was supporting the weight of the tub!

Lifted it back up, removed the offending switch, reinstalled the factory plug and lowered in place. Perfect! Except I forgot to install the fuel gauge wiring to the top of the sending unit. #@!#$%^^

Tomorrow, lift again, hookup the wires and finish tub install. One step forward, two steps back...LOL
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