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Unread 09-26-2011, 03:03 PM   #16
Web Wheeler
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,324
Well with 3.54's you'll just need a new R&P and a master install kit for the front. But if you go with a locker then that will be extra. The rear will need a new carrier, R&P, and a master install kit. To put a locker here you could nix the carrier because the locker will replace that.

There are many articles to explain the differences in lockers, just do a quick search. I would say a mechanical is more reliable, just because if you lose an air line your SOL! There are good arguments for both. Personally I'm putting a Detroit TruTrac in my Dana 30 front. An air locker will need an air pump, typically mounted under the hood. Check out ARB's website.

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Unread 09-26-2011, 03:32 PM   #17
John Strenk
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1976 CJ5 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 13,007
Originally Posted by swatson454

This ^^^ is how you know that it isn't running correctly .

If you currently have the distributor from the feedback BBD era installed on an aftermarket carb or nutter bypassed BBD engine, your ignition timing is way off of optimal and will definitely keep you from making the power that it is able to.

I'm a little surprised at how many people overlook this important fact and buy new carbs, big distributor caps, fancy ignition parts, etc. to try to get more power when the ignition curve itself is often times the main culprit.
I'm not disagreeing that the computerized distributor isn't one of the worse distributor to run but timing isn't the end all of jeep power problems.

I'm running the same stock comp dist and even with the vacuum disconnected I had no problems going up to 85 with 33's 3.54 and a tiny 1 bbl YF.

A few years ago I ran a stock hp curve against hp needed against hp available at different rpm. It had quite a few holes in it when plugging in different ratios. Worse case was the t5. In fact, there were negative hp available. That means the jeep probably will slow down in 5 th gear.

So I don't think that fixing the timing curve is going to fix his problem. With all the possibilities of vacuum leaks, poor spark, wrong mixture. I would look at those first. Along with static timing. I'd worry about the curve last.

Just my opinion.

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Unread 09-26-2011, 03:42 PM   #18
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1984 CJ7 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: deep river, CT
Posts: 194
So a new distributed will give me the power back?
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Unread 09-26-2011, 03:43 PM   #19
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1984 CJ7 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: deep river, CT
Posts: 194
So a new destributor cap will Hume me the power gain?
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Unread 09-26-2011, 04:59 PM   #20
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1949 CJ3A 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Clarksville, Maryland
Posts: 574
Please don't look for quick fixes.
1985 CJ7 - total customization underway, Sublime green and Plum crazy purple, Ford 9", 258 w/ Holley 475
1985,93 CJ7,YJ - L98 TPI Vette motor, Atlas twin stick, Dana 60s front and rear, Arbs, 39.5 Swampers
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Unread 09-26-2011, 05:15 PM   #21
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1981 CJ7 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Elbert, CO
Posts: 10,029
Hey John Strenk,

Will you come tune my engine?

I've read several of your posts about how well your Jeep runs, and though I'm not discounting what you say, I'd sure like to see it with my own eyes.

I've taken the best advice on these forums, along with a few twists of my own, trying to get my 258 to run like yours, but she just doesn't stack up.

You must have a magic touch....or a few aces up your sleeve.

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