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Unread 07-20-2006, 06:19 PM   #1
bdmonist
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Money = New Steering

Hey guys, just came across some extra cash and desperately need to replace my stock steering. I have a CJ 7, 360 with 35 x 12.50's, Dana 30, about 4 inch suspension lift and 1.5" body lift, drop pitman arm. The steering sucks, it's all over the road, pops in the front real bad when I turn at slow speeds (maybe at high speeds too, but i can't hear it), and the gear box leaks about a quart in 4 days without driving it (not exagerating). I will be replacing the steering box with a superbox, replacing the box brace with a heavy duty brace, and replacing the stock shaft with either a Flaming River or Borgeson HD shaft. My question is should I do anything else, or do some mods on the drag link, tie rods, etc prior to doing any of this? I feel like I have to replace the box just to save some cash on fluid. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Also - From my research, the Brands mentioned above seem to be the way to go, any reasons to doubt that?

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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 07-20-2006, 06:48 PM   #2
kbtriumph
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With 35" tires I would upgrade my drag link and tie rod at the same time. The stockers are pretty puny for that big a tire.

I would also check the camber, usually with more than a 2" lift it is out also.

The companies that you mention all have a pretty good reputation as far as I know.

Good luck
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Unread 07-20-2006, 07:52 PM   #3
jeepskate
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Go with PSC instead of AGR for your box...better quality and done by the same guy who used to own AGR...you might consider the pump as well. Replace the steering box mount with a heavy duty mount (and use the third top mounting hole option that most of them have), install a steering box brace, get rid of the drop pitman arm...put the stocker back on and do a tie-rod flip.
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'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
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Unread 07-20-2006, 07:58 PM   #4
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When you're all done replacing stuff, might want to have an alignment done. Pay special attention to the caster. Hopefully your caster is in the positive side somewhere between 4-6 degrees or so. If not, you might consider some spring shims to increase positive caster.. it'll help eliminate the wandering.
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Unread 07-20-2006, 08:47 PM   #5
bdmonist
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Jeepskate - I'll check into the PSC, thanks for that info - What is the advantage of the tie rod flip over the drop pitman arm? Not familiar with that swap.

Never checked castor either, can I do it myself, or will I have to take it in? I like to buy tools and stuff, all I need is a reason!
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 07-20-2006, 09:05 PM   #6
jeepwhore
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A drop pitman arm increases your Jeeps turning radius. I have to do 3 point turns now in places where I could spin around in 1 sweep before the DP arm was there. Doing the tie rod flip allows you to go back to a stock pitman arm and also moves the tierod and drag link up on top of the knuckles (and more out of harms way)
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Unread 07-20-2006, 09:51 PM   #7
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Do I need any additional parts for the flip, or is it simply like it seems - Flip the tie rods? I assume there are some threads on this forum for it I can search?
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 07-20-2006, 10:09 PM   #8
jeepskate
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There's threads. In short, you need a kit and there are two on the market. Rock Equipment (the one I have), you taper ream the knuckles from the top and sleeve the factory tapers. Goferit, you bore straight through the knuckles, then weld in their tapered inserts.

You can check the caster yourself with an angle finder with magnetic base. Park the Jeep on level ground, drop a socket over the upper ball joint, and stick the angle finder to the socket.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
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Unread 07-21-2006, 02:56 PM   #9
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Alright - done some research and price checking and I think this is the way I am going to go. Get the PSC Steering Box, Tie Rod Flip Kit, stock pitman arm, and a steering box mount. That's about all i can swing right now - Then come back later(with more money) with the Borgeson shaft, Monster Tire rods, HD stabilizer, and drag link. With money being an issue, would anyone recommend another way of attacking it? Also, with the flip kit - should i get new tie rod ends now or wait til I replace the tie rod? Thanks Guys you have helped a lot.
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 07-21-2006, 03:10 PM   #10
jeepskate
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I *really* would try to swing the shaft, box, mount, pitman and flip in one shot even if it means waiting a little longer to do the install...it'll make life much simpler. Should be able to find a used stock pitman cheap if you don't still have yours and I can lend you the reamer for the Rock Equipment flip. Your job will go something like this: unbolt the shaft from the steering column, disconnect the hoses and drag link from the steering box, unbolt the bracket from the frame, yank the whole deal out in one shot, bolt your new stuff in place (I'd recommend new TRE's)...you don't have to fight with the stock shaft as much and worry about the rag joint breaking when you're trying to remove the shaft from the stock box to put it on the new one. Check the vendor section over at pirate4x4.com...there's usually a vendor like PORC that has PSC stuff at reduced prices and you may find some other items there too like the shaft. I *very* rarely pay full retail for any of the stuff that I buy new and I buy used whenever possible/plausible.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
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Unread 07-21-2006, 05:32 PM   #11
401ton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdmonist
Alright - done some research and price checking and I think this is the way I am going to go. Get the PSC Steering Box, Tie Rod Flip Kit, stock pitman arm, and a steering box mount. That's about all i can swing right now - Then come back later(with more money) with the Borgeson shaft, Monster Tire rods, HD stabilizer, and drag link. With money being an issue, would anyone recommend another way of attacking it? Also, with the flip kit - should i get new tie rod ends now or wait til I replace the tie rod? Thanks Guys you have helped a lot.

I would try to fix the oil leak in the steering gear box. It only takes a few seals and unless something is broken you'll be able to re-use it and save that cash. Years ago I installed 35 X 15" SX's and went wheelin'. Steering sucked so I bought a AGR pump, put new seal in the gear box and never looked back. Still have the AGR pump, gear box and steering shaft if you need them.
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Unread 07-21-2006, 05:57 PM   #12
bdmonist
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I agree I could fix the leak easily, but I have a ton of slack in the box as well. I would still have that problem I believe. I am interested in any parts you are looking to sell however!
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 07-21-2006, 06:08 PM   #13
dave_dj1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 401ton
I would try to fix the oil leak in the steering gear box. It only takes a few seals and unless something is broken you'll be able to re-use it and save that cash. Years ago I installed 35 X 15" SX's and went wheelin'. Steering sucked so I bought a AGR pump, put new seal in the gear box and never looked back. Still have the AGR pump, gear box and steering shaft if you need them.
how does the pump alone help? i was under the impression you needed the pump and the box, i have been through two napa boxes (good thing they are guranteed for life) also, would you lend the reamer out to me, if i payed shipping both ways?
thanks,
dave
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Unread 07-21-2006, 06:21 PM   #14
401ton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_dj1
how does the pump alone help? i was under the impression you needed the pump and the box, i have been through two napa boxes (good thing they are guranteed for life) also, would you lend the reamer out to me, if i payed shipping both ways?
thanks,
dave

If you don't have hydro assist you don't need the box at the same time as the pump or vice versa. I adjusted my box to get the play out of it, fixed all the leaks, replaced the stock pump with the AGR pump and used it that way for 6 years. I was under the impression you had to replace both too. You don't have too if your pump isn't bad. The AGR pump puts out more pressure and makes your stock gear box work better.

I'm not the guy with the reamer though.
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Unread 07-21-2006, 07:35 PM   #15
bdmonist
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I don't plan on replacing my pump - I think it is ok. I also thought about OEM boxes, but with the reputation they have, I figure it's better to splurge now and get an aftermarket that will last.

I'll have a reamer soon - we can work something out.
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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