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FS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitThe Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Building a Bumper?

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Unread 12-08-2012, 03:09 PM   #1366
rixcj
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Well...I learned another new thing, today . Thanks, Bill.

Rich

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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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Unread 12-08-2012, 03:17 PM   #1367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog

The passenger side will sit closer to the firewall, because of the offset of the cylinder bank.
My drivers side is the one that's closest, the passenger side has more room. The heat shield is on the body side.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 03:51 PM   #1368
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The firewall is a little offset on the pass side so I guess that why I have more clearance on that side.



I have a little over a finger with between the engine and actual firewall, the parts that close is the distance between the engine and the lip / seam on the tub where two sections meet.





I did notice on the 80 tub I have, that does not have a heat shield, there is a small notch in the seam that looks factory.



Checked the 81 Laredo tub and there is a notch as well. Maybe they notched it from the factory for the V8 years. ??

I think I am going to try to notch the seam with the engine in to get a little more clearance. Looks like I can get a recip saw back their.

Any other thoughts guys?
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Unread 12-08-2012, 04:07 PM   #1369
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Was chatting with Bill and he reminded my about my 1" body lift. Thinking it is playing in to it as well. With out the lift the seam would be below the head and not a issue.
image-3175970637.jpg  
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Unread 12-08-2012, 04:44 PM   #1370
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MoC, don't you have a 1" body lift? I've been studying our pictures, and trying to figure why your engine sat lower than mine, when compared to my stock one. And I just remembered when you said the fuel line was easier to run with the lift.

Anyway, I think you'll be good, anything over a 5/8" clearance between the tub and engine won't cause problems. Also, it's probably why you have more clearance on the passenger side. My passenger side fire wall has a heat shield, remember its a 1978, and there's less than a 3/4" clearance between it and the enginebill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:30 AM   #1371
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Broken Dip Stick Tube Removal

Did not get much at all done this weekend but did have a small victory for MoCkind this morning. I broke the oil dip stick tube off while test fitting my headers on Friday. I was able to get it out without having to drop the pan.



That makes me Happy Happy Happy.

After doing a little searching I found a method that someone else had success with. I got a large lag bolt and threaded in on to the broken tube. Locked a set of vise grips around the bolt, put a little heat to the block to expand the case iron a bit, and then from the bottom side was able to use a hammer to tap it up and out.







Still doing the happy dance. The only other option was to drop the pan to knock it out...
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:39 AM   #1372
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Good deal, there is a tool floating around on JF for installing the new tube. Don't know who has it. IIRC, it looked like a 5/16" socket the was cut at a angle.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...304-v8-557892/
Post 7, thanks to Rick for this.
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:44 AM   #1373
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Good deal, there is a tool floating around on JF for installing the new tube. Don't know who has it. IIRC, it looked like a 5/16" socket the was cut at a angle.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...304-v8-557892/
Post 7, thanks to Rick for this.
The installation tool was made with a piece of 5/16" I.D. tube welded to a piece of roundbar. It really comes in handy when installing a DS tube in a jeep with headers...

Actually, I welded a small piece of the same tube to the dipstick tube, itself, to have something to pound against. Without that small piece welded on, I don't think that the installation tool will work...

Rich
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:48 AM   #1374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
The installation tool was made with a piece of 5/16" I.D. tube welded to a piece of roundbar. It really comes in handy when installing a DS tube in a jeep with headers...

Rich
Hey Rich, just sent you a PM. I ordered the Bulltear tube and waiting on it to come in. I have not installed anything on that side of the engine yet, do you still have the tool?
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Unread 12-11-2012, 10:01 AM   #1375
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PM'd you back...
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There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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Unread 12-27-2012, 05:05 PM   #1376
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Well been a while since I updated the 360 progress and all I can bring myself to say is its been a long hard road full of set backs.


So where to start...

Fenders - Back on the 12th I gave the fenders to a buddy who is a professional welder to do the repair work to. He told me 5 days and I would have them back. Long story short it took 12 days and when they cam back one was warped in about a 1/4" and the repairs looked shotty. Cant blame him I guess since he welds pipe and not small metal like this but he is a welder. Decided to give up on them and ordered a aftermarket set. Due to Christmas they will not be here till Jan 3. That has kind of but a hold on paint....

Oil Dip Stick Tub -Ordered in the 9th, not in the box when it arrived on the 14th, did not get the second one in till the 20th. Damaged the second one on the 21st while installing it. Slipped while tapping it in and but a little bend in the tube at the base which was just enough to make the dip stick bind a little when going in / out. Due to the holidays was not able to order another from the vendor till yesterday. Its going to be here early next week. Cant install the headers, clutch linkage, or steering shaft till its in...

Carb - Decided to pay National Carb to rebuild my 2150. I know its a easy rebuilt and I have done several myself but since I am trying to make this a purty engine decided for what they wanted $ wise vs the time I would put in to it cleaning, polishing, coating, and rebuilding was well worth them doing.
Talked to them and they said once they get it about 3-5 days later it would be shipped back. They clean it, polish it, coat it, put it back together, and test it on a engine. Paid $140, well worth it in my eyes. So the delay... I sent it to them priority 3 day on the 11th with payment. They receive and process it till the 18th. They closed Friday the 21st for the holidays and apparently dont reopen till Jan nd. WTF... Found that out yesterday when I called and got the machine. Wish someone would have mentioned that when I called. Sent a email yesterday and heard back today that has been cleaned, polished, and was on a rebuilders table. Should ship on the 3rd.

Back - As some of yall know I have been going through a bit of back trouble the last month. Slowly getting better but I was out of commission for a week and in some bad constant pain for another. Healing now.


So with all that I have only been puttin a hour in here and there.

Got my firewall clearanced and re painted.



The clutch linkage fabed up.



Driveline completely back in.



Starter, a header, and some fittings on.



and starting on the front end now.





Hoping to throw some time at it this weekend and get the rest of the front end and belts on, oil in tcase, tranny, engine and the engine primmed.

The LAST problem that I am going to run in to is the headers. The Doug Thorleys fit GREAT everywhere but at the skid. They hang down lower than other headers so I am going to have to do a little skid plate work to be able to run the pipes.










So other then all that had a great Christmas and all is well.

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Unread 12-27-2012, 07:38 PM   #1377
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Good solid progress. Looks very nice! Your back probably needs a break anyway. Got a plan for the skid? Maybe spacers?
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Unread 12-27-2012, 08:23 PM   #1378
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MoC know anyone who will rebuild a t176

Gears look fine but sycro's are wearing, Johnny Hodge 4x4 in Monroe doesn't have JP anymore so I'm looking toward north west louisiana. any idea on the cost.


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Unread 12-27-2012, 10:56 PM   #1379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerpaw View Post
Gears look fine but sycro's are wearing, Johnny Hodge 4x4 in Monroe doesn't have JP anymore so I'm looking toward north west louisiana. any idea on the cost.


Tigerpaw
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three one eight two zero eight six five six zero
Before rebuilding mine 2 years ago I called around and found only one person willing to do a bench rebuild for $600. Sorry I would not know where to begin other than calling around again to find who it was.
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Unread 12-27-2012, 11:02 PM   #1380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
Good solid progress. Looks very nice! Your back probably needs a break anyway. Got a plan for the skid? Maybe spacers?
I though about a tcase drop to lower the skid down then fabing something to keep the tcase and tranny at the original level.

I am going to pay a shop to run the pipes. So once its all in I will bring it there and find out exactly what they think will have to be removed from the skid to make it work and kind of go from there.

I can remove up to 2 1/2 inches from the skid and get a total of 6 inches clearance between the pipes and the skid. If I do that then I would likely weld something on the front to come up at a angle below the headers.



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