MoC's Build Thread - Page 9 - JeepForum.com

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post #121 of 2044 Old 02-19-2011, 01:01 PM
Skerr
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Too funny MoC! Love it.


Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #122 of 2044 Old 02-19-2011, 01:07 PM
Coiz
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I'm digging all the fresh paint of the drive line parts. Nice work.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #123 of 2044 Old 02-19-2011, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
I'm digging all the fresh paint of the drive line parts. Nice work.
Thanks Mike! My big fear now is that by the time I get around to doing by body work and exterior paint the underside is going to be old and worn looking. Kind of like the carpet not matching the drapes.

Btw you should change you Avatar. It appears that all the cool kids are doing it today.
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post #124 of 2044 Old 02-19-2011, 04:15 PM
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Thanks Mike! My big fear now is that by the time I get around to doing by body work and exterior paint the underside is going to be old and worn looking. Kind of like the carpet not matching the drapes.

Btw you should change you Avatar. It appears that all the cool kids are doing it today.
I've taken countless layers of dust and dirt off my finished chassis and it hasn't left the garage in over three years.

How's that for an avatar change? Since it seemed to be gun related, just a few beauties.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #125 of 2044 Old 02-20-2011, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Rear Main Seal RMS Replacement

Well played around a little more today while the kidos were sleeping. Mainly installing my RMS. I took a bunch of pictures, as I always seem do to, and lay it out step by step for future reference.

As far as sealant goes I used black permotex. I have also seen permotex #2 suggested as well. This first picture lays out exactly where the FSM says to install sealant. Blue lines in the picture on the lower section of the seal should have sealant top and bottom only where the blue lines run. The red lines represent the chamfered edges that get a small bead of sealant as well. The chamfered edge is the tiny 45 degree angled corner.



Started out by cleaning my block surface, already had the bearing cap cleaned up. As with anytime you use sealant the cleaner the better.



When cleaning the bearing cap also make sure to get all the old RMS material out of the grove. Mine was a bear to get out of both the top and bottom and left some material that needed cleaning.



The lower seal orientation is easy to figure out, it will only go in one way.



The grove on the upper seal should match the lower when installed so that it how you can determine its proper direction.



With all the other bearing caps still loose lightly oil the upper seal and slide it in to place.





I then coated the lower seal with some engine oil, slid it in to the lower bearing and applied RTV in the areas needed.



In doing all of this make sure not to get sealant on the mating surfaces of the bearing cap itself. Next I lightly oiled the the area of the crank where the bearing cap goes and installed the bearing cap.



Torqued all the bearing cap bolts down to 80 foot pounds and called it done.

Also got some more nuts and bolts cleaned and painted.




And that was my afternoon. Thanks for reading. Just waiting on a clutch spring, pressure plate bolts, and my new motor mounts which all should be here in the next few days. It will all start going back up soon!
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post #126 of 2044 Old 02-20-2011, 04:57 PM
Skerr
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Nice write up. I've never done it but I would be confident now!

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #127 of 2044 Old 02-21-2011, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Nice write up. I've never done it but I would be confident now!
Thanks Scott.

Home for lunch and just saw the UPS truck coming down the street out the window. Got all happy and went and got my shoes. Came back and he was gone. Guess he was using my street as a short cut to somewhere else. Should have none better anyway my UPS guy usually does not come till late late afternoon.
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post #128 of 2044 Old 02-21-2011, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Ahh crud, another 99 cent piece holding me up. Forgot about the clutch throw out lever ball!!! Going to call first thing in the am and see if anyone can get it here regular shipping by friday...
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post #129 of 2044 Old 02-22-2011, 08:57 AM
Trimble1
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Excellent write up MoC. Great job so far.

'83 CJ5 4.2L D30 AMC20 D300
Stinking 2.73's 31" BFG's MC2100
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post #130 of 2044 Old 02-24-2011, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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So my 99 cent ball came in today and tomorrow I can start putting stuff back together!

Played for a few minutes today and removed the old pilot bearing by using the grease method. Packed it full of grease first.



Found a socket that fit perfectly and filled it with grease as well. Inserted it into the pilot bearing.




A few good whacks with a mallet and it started coming. Repacked it again and a few more whacks and it came right out.



So tomorrow if its not raining I plan on installing flywheel, clutch, and bellhouse. Maybe have time to install my new clutch linkage as well.
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post #131 of 2044 Old 02-24-2011, 03:52 PM
Eaglekeeper
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MoC, nice job on the RMS documentation. Darned things can be finicky but you made it look easy.
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post #132 of 2044 Old 02-24-2011, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
MoC, nice job on the RMS documentation. Darned things can be finicky but you made it look easy.
Big lesson I learned on that Jody, which I did not include, was not to use a wooden dowel. I read a post while researching that suggested it so that nothing would score the surface. What ended up happening was the dowel splintered and broke twice between the crank and the block. Spent about 20 extra minutes slowing turning the engine over by hand to get all the wooden splinters that were wedged out. PITA.
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post #133 of 2044 Old 02-27-2011, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
MoC
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Well LSUtiger an I put in 2 1/2 hours of work yesterday and made a little progress.

Pulled out some of my new shiny parts.



New pilot bearing installed.



Spacer and flywheel installed. Ended up using my old flywheel bolts the Mr. Gasket replacements were to long for my comfort. They stuck out the flywheel and were a millimeter or two away from the engine.



Next clutch disk and pressure plate.



Assembled the bell housing fork, throw out bearing, and springs and installed it.







Tranny stabbed.



Cross member installed





Then lastly Tcase installed.






Only going to be able to get a hours or so in today and I am hoping to get both motor mounts replaced and the oil pan installed.

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post #134 of 2044 Old 02-27-2011, 09:42 AM
ChaseB
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Wow that looks clean!! Nice!!

1984 CJ-7 Renegade
2005 TJ X (daily driver)
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post #135 of 2044 Old 02-27-2011, 10:18 AM
Graffxman
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That looks awesome! Is it now too pretty to drive???

Graffxman
'76 CJ7--304 V8
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