MoC's Build Thread - Page 106 - JeepForum.com

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post #1576 of 2044 Old 03-08-2013, 09:53 PM
lucdog
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Good catch Glen, I was looking at the pipe and not the hanger. I'm thinking a 3/8" self tapping bolt might have been a better choice. MoC, seal it up real good so moisture doesn't get behind the strap.

Some exhaust wrap might be in order at the e-brake lines.


image-784365314.jpg


In part 1 he showed painting the pipe with hi heat paint. And using hose clamps instead of the stainless zip ties.

I used this stuff where the pipe runs close to the Portioning valve.

Bill


1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #1577 of 2044 Old 03-09-2013, 07:49 PM
Skerr
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That sounds AWESOME!!!!

Sure you tightened the 2150 down gudntite?

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #1578 of 2044 Old 03-10-2013, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Well I am still SOL on the 2150. I went through it yesterday and other than the float being 3/8 to low everything else looked fine. I changed the power valve out just to see as well.

Here is the 2100 idling great at 700 RPM's. Idle is really smooth and engine sounds great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=-2B1iMXg7dA

Here is the 2150. It will only stay idling for a short time around 1100 rpms then dies. The idle is rough and the engine sounds sick. If you rev it when you come off the throttle it dies. It will not stay running and idle below 1100.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=0_ErWyGrC7s

Going to email the links to National tomorrow to show them. I also pulled the top on the 2150 while it was running and the float was not sticking.
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post #1579 of 2044 Old 03-10-2013, 08:37 PM
lucdog
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The video says it private, but that's fine, I don't need to see it.
Sounds like a good plan. We'll see if National has a answer.

Look at Skerrs thread. He brought up some interesting stuff about gaskets, adapters, and some problems he encountered with the 2100.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #1580 of 2044 Old 03-10-2013, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
The video says it private, but that's fine, I don't need to see it.
Sounds like a good plan. We'll see it National has a answer.

Look at Skerrs thread. He brought up some interesting stuff about gaskets, adapters, and some problems he encountered with the 2100.

Bill
Fixed the links and they are now viewable. Checked out Scotts thead and his problems look to be more specfic to installing the 2100 to a 258 and finding the correct gaskets & adapters to do so. The gaskets I have are 100% the correct stock ones for mounting the stock 2150 to a stock 360 on a wagonner.
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post #1581 of 2044 Old 03-10-2013, 09:25 PM
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Well I am still SOL on the 2150. I went through it yesterday and other than the float being 3/8 to low everything else looked fine. I changed the power valve out just to see as well.

Here is the 2100 idling great at 700 RPM's. Idle is really smooth and engine sounds great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=-2B1iMXg7dA

Here is the 2150. It will only stay idling for a short time around 1100 rpms then dies. The idle is rough and the engine sounds sick. If you rev it when you come off the throttle it dies. It will not stay running and idle below 1100.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=0_ErWyGrC7s

Going to email the links to National tomorrow to show them. I also pulled the top on the 2150 while it was running and the float was not sticking.
To me it sounds like it is running out of fuel.

It starts with a full bowl of fuel in the carb, uses it up and then runs out.

Like the float is not dropping down or the needle valve is not opening as the fuel drops in the bowl.

Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Web Site http://www.lever-family-racing.com

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/
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post #1582 of 2044 Old 03-10-2013, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever

To me it sounds like it is running out of fuel.

It starts with a full bowl of fuel in the carb, uses it up and then runs out.

Like the float is not dropping down or the needle valve is not opening as the fuel drops in the bowl.
That was one of my thoughts as well. I pulled the top off the carb after it died and the bowl was still full.

Float level is correctly set, needle moves freely, and float does not stick.

Under A Sun Thats See It All Before...
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post #1583 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well yanking the carb and sending it back to national again.... Joy...
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post #1584 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC
Done deal. $649 out the door with a warranty from Meineke. Over all I am very happy with the work. I went with a set of Super V's, imitation Flowmasters. The skid plate cuts were not to bad, I just have to pretty them up a bit. I had them hang the pipes out a little long at the rear so I could decided where to chop them. The only little concern is they come out a little closer to the rear tires than I would have liked. It is really tight. He did say that any modifications / changes I wanted he could do under the warranty anytime. Going to ponder on it and se.

Anyone have any constructive criticism?
They should have used a drill bit for the corners when they did the cut outs on the skid plate for the exhaust. It would have made for clean, smooth edges.

Chris
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post #1585 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stamp32

They should have used a drill bit for the corners when they did the cut outs on the skid plate for the exhaust. It would have made for clean, smooth edges.

Chris
I had to talk them in to cutting it themselves. They originally wanted me to cut it but a little persuading worked. I am going the clean up the cuts and paint it back up before I get it in the road.

Under A Sun Thats See It All Before...
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post #1586 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 05:41 PM
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MoC,

I've been scratching my head over your 2150 issues.

Does it have the altitude compensator on it? Perhaps that circuit was messing with you.

Matt
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post #1587 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
MoC,

I've been scratching my head over your 2150 issues.

Does it have the altitude compensator on it? Perhaps that circuit was messing with you.

Matt
I'm scratching as well Matt. It does have the compensator on it but...... one of the "tweaks" National does is block it off. Apparently it can be somewhat problematic with leaks. They take 2 metal plugs and block the passageway from the compensator in to the carb body. I already pulled the compensator and checked, the plugs are there.

Pulled it today. Double checked and the gaskets all cover up the bottom of the carb. Also called BJ's today and double checked that the 360 2150's used the same gaskets through the years and they do. I think I am going to try one last thing Wednesday. I am going to bolt the carb up with just the thick paper insulator between it and the intake just to make sure there is not a leak around the plastic insulator. I am sure that's not the case since I have been through 2 of the plastic ones and 4 of the others.

Also talked to National today. I sent the links to the 2 videos so their tech guy could see. He still stands by that it ran on their engine and thinks my gaskets are wrong or leaking. I am going to send my gaskets with the carb when I send it back. Also are going to ask them to film the carb running on a iPhone and send it to me.

Under A Sun Thats See It All Before...
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post #1588 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 07:39 PM
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MoC,

Well, we all know you really want a 4-barrel, so just bite the bullet for a new intake, and buy a Q-Jet.

I'm wondering, without the altitude compensator the 2150 is a 2100, correct? So why not use the one that works, and get a refund from National.

Or are they different venturi sizes?

Matt
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post #1589 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
MoC
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
MoC,

Well, we all know you really want a 4-barrel, so just bite the bullet for a new intake, and buy a Q-Jet.

I'm wondering, without the altitude compensator the 2150 is a 2100, correct? So why not use the one that works, and get a refund from National.

Or are they different venturi sizes?

Matt
Yup thats the big difference. The 2150's also have the choke pull off on the side as opposed to the AMC 2100 with it on the top "disk." The one that works is a ford 2100 that was mounted on my 258. The Fords don't have a PVC vac source on the base of the carb, but they do make an adapter for it. They are fine to use on the 258 since it pulls the PVC vac from the side of the intake manifold. The real problem is that its a 1.08 and I need a 1.21. I also have another 2100 thats a AMC one, but same problem of being a 1.08...
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post #1590 of 2044 Old 03-11-2013, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Yup thats the big difference. The 2150's also have the choke pull off on the side as opposed to the AMC 2100 with it on the top "disk." The one that works is a ford 2100 that was mounted on my 258. The Fords don't have a PVC vac source on the base of the carb, but they do make an adapter for it. They are fine to use on the 258 since it pulls the PVC vac from the side of the intake manifold. The real problem is that its a 1.08 and I need a 1.21. I also have another 2100 thats a AMC one, but same problem of being a 1.08...
I have pulled both 1.08 and 1.21 MC2100s from F150s (302). Clay is running a 1.21 right now which I jetted down. Some of them have factory nipples in the base for manifold vacuum. Others do not, but it is super easy to install one. You have to look at the bottoms of the carbs to make sure they have the cut out at the bottom of each barrel.

(disregard the red line)
The yellow circles show the cut outs. Some 2100s don't have these.
The green arrow is a factory manifold vac source (going to dizzy on Clay's Jeep).
The orange circle is the nipple I installed for PCV.

Let me know if you want more info.

Since you are installing on a 360, I assume you are not using a Mr. Gasket 1937 adapter plate??
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Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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