Yes, everything, seal and bearing wise is new. I don't believe the spindle brg. is seated to anything. I believe I read that as long as it's an even seat so that it's in far enough to allow the seal's top to be just below flush, being that it's a sleeve type brg. that has no side thrust and isn't a two pc. like a brg. and a race that must mate squarely. Plus it leaves room at the other end to grasp with a puller. Is that wrong, does it have to seat deeper? That's where the seal was located when I removed the old one. Theres not really a "seat" in there.
Anyhow, so I get to dissecting things further. I find a tiny bit of thicker paint and ground that down. No burrs, dings, dents on the spindle or knuckle hole. And I tried rotating the spindle to each of the 5 positions to see if one fit better. But what I did notice was while either rotating the hub or the spindle, the axle / spindle non gap side (where I couldn't get the screwdriver tip) was always in the same spot, which was towards the top, or right, as the axle lays [cover up, yoke down]. And as I stood there staring, waiting for it to fix itself (didn't happen, didn't even move
) I noticed it was off in the same direction as the knuckle fits on the axle's "C". As if tightening the ball joint nuts would pull the knuckle/spindle in the right direction to line up the axle and spindle. I have a picture that illustrates it well but I'll have to post it tomorrow.
So I thought... could it be that simple, the ball joints just weren't tightened enough! So Saturday I went to the local shop that did my axles rebuild which included new ball joints, to pic his brain and to see what torque he did the ball joints too. He said he doesn't remember but it's probably the typical 70-75 ft/lbs. I thought great, it's supposed to be 85 on the bottom, 50 on the split ring and 100 on the top nut. I thought that's got to be it.
I was able to etch my tub that afternoon so I didn't get back to the axle till sat. night and I wasn't alone. Mr Murphy was in full force that night. Turns out the bottom nut was plenty tight. Curious as to what he did torque it too I started at 70 ft/lbs and moved up in 5 lb increments to see at what point I could move the nut tighter. At 105 lbs I moved it. Now I don't know that that's an accurate way to check it or not, plus it was painted with POR so I don't know if that could add any strength to it or not. So I backed the nut off some and retightened it to 85 ft/lbs. Then I went to loosen the top nut and it was a size I didn't have. Fifteen minutes till close I ran to Lowe's for a 1 5/16" socket and they didn't have one. The closest metric they had, using a tape measure in the store, was a 36mm. Could it fit? So I grabbed it, got home, and not such luck. Dead in the water.
Then I decided to start doing the tie rod flip, so I taper one hole and it doesn't go like the instructions say it will. Nothing like it! Dead in the water again at that point.
So I figured well, to feel like I got something done I'll put the other end together. Things were going good till I went to put the cap back on the hub with the little (#8x32) allen head cap screws. One of them had boggered threads at the end, which I noticed it being tight on removal. Rooted around and luckily I had a die to fit that size (what were the odds). So after fixing up the threads, then installing the cap with the gasket, a dusting of silicone, and a dab of locktite on each of those screws. I was done. Turn from free to lock.... works great. Now turn back to free.............................!@#$%^&*
It's 2:53am. I give up. Well played Mr. Murphy!!
Could I have a bad ball joint? What's the odds. So the saga continues, suggestions welcomed.