I just went to install a new set of Mile Marker locking hubs (#470) and I couldn't get it to go one the entire way. It appears that the shoulder that fits inside the hub is not concentric to the hubs center.
I did try it on the other side and got it to fit with a little force. The axle, hub, new brgs., and nuts are all installed and torqued to 50ft/lbs. as req'd., so the center is where it needs to be.
Has anyone had this issues before? I seen that skizriz had issues similar to this on another thread. Could the powder coating be too thick on one side? I hate to grind on a new product to make it work. I didn't have time to check it with a caliper at the time so I'll try that tonight.
Hmm, no answer for a fix, but I've been contemplating getting the MM locking hubs. Keep us updated.
Also, will your factory center caps fit over the MM locking hubs? The hubs that I currently have on will not allow me to use the caps. In other words, I'm looking for a set that will allow me to use the factory center caps.
I just put a set on mine Saturday and they went on fine. They were snug fitting on the axle splines but that's it. I'd check the i.d. of the bearing hubs then measure the o.d. of the Mile Markers. There should be a little clearance between the two, I'd say at least .005 and maybe a bit more. If you need to compare the o.d. of yours a a set that works just let me know and I'll pull one side off and measure it. Also, and I'm sure you did this but it's worth saying, if there's a burr inside the bearing hub housing that would mess the fit up.
I called MM and he wants the OD to compare with his. So I'll call him tomorrow. The splines fit okay but it's like the axle isn't centered, or more correctly, the locking hubs shoulder isn't centered with it's splines (and I tried a couple of taps with a rubber mallet with no luck). No, I didn't feel any burr and the chamfer around the hubs rim is still there.
Adam - I don't use factory center caps but I think I know where they're at so I can check tonight.
Sorry Andy, they're not gonna fit. The top of the factory Warn plastic internal hub is 2 7/16" and the Mile Marker's top is 3 5/16". The hole in the factory caps is only 2 9/16".
Well I did some more brainstorming on the fit issue and I think I've figured out the cause. Let me know what you think. The mis-alignment was enough that you could eyeball it from the top just before the shoulder touched the hub, so I could see it was off to the one side. But as I spun either the hub or the lock, the gap remained the same. Which tells me the centerlines of the two are not the same. So I took off the outer spindle nut, tried it and still no fit. Then I loosened the inner nut about 2-3 turns and tried it and it fit. So then I took the whole hub/rotor off and it fit fine, even with a little bit of play. Now keep in mind they both fit the other side of the axle.
So what I'm thinking is one of the two wheel bearing races didn't fully seat and it's forcing the hub to be cocked on the spindle. And I don't have a dial indicator to check it either. Does that sound plausible?
The problem I had was that the hub simply would not fit on my spindle. It was just too small.
One hub fit fine on both sides, and the other hub wouldn't fit either side.
Neither hub would fit on either spindle on the second set.
The Warns slid right on.
78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
I've had a set for over 10 years, only problem is they get hard to turn sometimes and I have to take them apart and lube up the o ring. With that said I had the same problem with a Samurai that I was working on, what the problem turned out to be was the bushing/bearing inside the spindle was worn out and let the axle drop down.
86 CJ7 5.7 vortec. 4L60,D44's,OBA,Air tank bumpers w/D rings detroits,4.88,35" bfg, mt's 9500ti warn
86 CJ7 2.5 detroits, OBA 4.56, air tank bumpers, w/D rings,9500I warn 31x10.5x15, Trxus
86 CJ7 bone stock, w/factory 44 never seen the dirt soon to be for sale
87 Wrangler also never seen the dirt.
If you have any doubts that the races didn't seat I'd sure take it all apart and see. Did you take the spindle comepletely off and put that roller bearing in new too? Sounds like it's going to be an easy fix once you find the culprit.
On a side note. I was impressed with the Mile Marker hubs. Warn has been the standard others were judged by for years but for those of us running the later 5 bolt hubs they are no longer an option and I was skeptical about not being able to use the Warn Premium but these look plenty good to me.
Well it's the only logical thing I can think would be causing it. I'll have to dig the rest of the grease out and maybe get a mirror inside. Hopefully it's not the inner one so I don't have to get another seal. The only other thing it could be is that the mm hub's center is not inline with it's housing. Yes, I did replace the spindle bearing. Everything but the hub, spindle, axles and housing are new.
The mile markers do seem like a stout unit, much better than the plastic and aluminum one that was stock.
And the saga continues. So I cleaned out the grease and looked closely with a mirror. The races were seated and if they weren't it was by a hair. But when I installed them, both feel and sound told me they were so I'm not surprised. Then I noticed the axle protruding thru the spindle end was off center, so I took a screwdriver and checked the other side. It had enough gap to slide the tip of a screwdriver in all around and it would allow some movement if I pry'd it. Back to the problem side and it wouldn't let the tip slide in between on one side, nor did it have any play.
So then I rotated the axle shaft to see if the gap changed and it didn't. That tells me the spindle must be cocked slightly, not the axle. So I took the nuts and dust shield off, but it was running late so I have yet to remove the spindle. I want to fit it up one more time (the mm hub) to see if just loosening it made a difference. I'll continue tomorrow night.
This is a strange mystery and hopefully soon solved. I'll continue to post my findings so that it may help someone else in the future with this.... anomaly!
Yeah, and that would be really odd. I mean it seemed fine before the teardown and I don't recall any hard impacts (unless it was one of the times when the wife took it) and it would have been years ago. I'm thinking maybe (hopefully) there might be a paint bubble/run of POR that dried thick on the steering knuckle face but I didn't see any gap.
Now I lost track of which was the left or right spindle when it was apart, but that shouldn't matter should it? I mean they aren't handed and theres no "wear" that would make them "mates". It's just really weird. How common is it to bend a spindle, ever so little?
As far as I know the spindles can be put on either side. I like to put things like that back where they came from but that's a quirk of mine. I've heard of spindles being bent when they were being taken off, too much hammer, but that's about it. I'd say you're on the right track taken them off and checking between them and the knuckle. Hope it is some paint or something holding it up.