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Unread 03-31-2013, 08:08 AM   #121
billybooster2
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I recall also having to apply parking brake a few tomes to get the calipers into their starting position.

I also manually rotated the caliper piston to get things right

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Unread 03-31-2013, 09:18 AM   #122
CJ7ROB
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Sorry to hear about the brake bleeding issues guys...but just to clarify, my calipers need to be swapped here left to right to put the bleeder screws in the correct positions? thx

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Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
My '84 Z calipers on 2dr rotors using BESRK brackets:


Driver side:

Passenger side:
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Unread 03-31-2013, 10:28 AM   #123
Truck633
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Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
Sorry to hear about the brake bleeding issues guys...but just to clarify, my calipers need to be swapped here left to right to put the bleeder screws in the correct positions? thx
At this rate, try it as is, you may be on to something I am missing.

I am going to go out and argue with it some more today (Happy Easter) and I will update y'all this after noon!!
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I bet the new bike riding monkey will pedal a lot faster!
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Unread 03-31-2013, 04:15 PM   #124
hmantractors
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The rest of the story

Posted up a couple of weeks ago finished disc brake swap. I used the Maxima calipers. Vacuum 1 person blead brakes then had wife pump and bleed to make sure. Went through about 1/2 quart fluid. Having driven it a couple of weeks here are the results. Used to have to 2 foot the brake pedal to stop. Now it is a 1 foot on the pedal to stop. Am I completely happy with it, NO. I am trying to stop four 33x12.50 R 15 tires. We have to remember that most on us are shimming the calipers with washers, using the eyeball to align parts, probably should have used a feeler guage and made shims to make perfect. I am just going to let the pads wear in and in time will get 100% pad contact. hopefully then the rear will have better stopping power. the emergency side of the system holds pretty well. My brake system is manual, cleaned up a nice vacuum booster for an 80 cj. Hope to have converted to vacuum power brakes in a couple of weeks. It would be real easy to get frustrated an give up and quit. This is not a science, some things just do not work as planned. Step back take a breath and rethink. It will come together, just have to stick with it. It would be so nice to have the jeep engineers chime in with suggestions. O wait, we live in I am going to slap a lawsuit on you. I guess we are on our own to perform trial and error in our attempt to improve our cj's.
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Unread 03-31-2013, 05:52 PM   #125
waterdowg
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I got to thinking why is everyone having so many problems with this upgrade, when there are companies like SSBC that sells this as a kit. I looked up kit to see if they had anyother parts included then what folks on JF are using. I found there directions and saw this in there trouble shooting secton. Here is a link to the full instructions.
brake.jpg  
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Unread 03-31-2013, 10:54 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterdowg View Post
I got to thinking why is everyone having so many problems with this upgrade, when there are companies like SSBC that sells this as a kit. I looked up kit to see if they had anyother parts included then what folks on JF are using. I found there directions and saw this in there trouble shooting secton. Here is a link to the full instructions.
I had the same thought... but I couldn't find the SSBC instructions. Thanks for the info. I don't think the link you tried to post worked, but the section you posted was helpful. Based on the info I could find, none of the kits required new MCs or proportioning valve.

I also did a lot of reading about brake bleeding on the forum and it seems getting the rears bled properly (disc or no disc) is a challenge. Found several useful tips about how to deal with the proportioning valve that I will use on my next attempt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hmantractors View Post
... This is not a science, some things just do not work as planned. Step back take a breath and rethink. It will come together, just have to stick with it. It would be so nice to have the jeep engineers chime in with suggestions. O wait, we live in I am going to slap a lawsuit on you. I guess we are on our own to perform trial and error in our attempt to improve our cj's.
Thanks for the shot of perspective... let the fun continue.
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Unread 03-31-2013, 11:44 PM   #127
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Worked through some issues today. re installed the rears through the original proportioning valve. the drivers side was tight, to tight. Turned the rotor nice and blue after a 5 mile test drive, wasn't sticking, just rubbing. The passengers side, never even squeezed the pads to the rotor. After removing the pass side for inspection, I found the piston to be stuck in the caliper, I swapped sides to make sure I didn't have a block in the pass side line or something, and nothing would budge it.
I have never dealt with calipers that have the twist piston, so it was new to me, but I figured nothing from nothing.... I fiddled with the piston, it finally turned (with a tap from a hammer) and for lack of a more tech term, broke free.
I re installed both sides and bled the system, for the first time ever, the pass side locked up....YEA!!!! I did pull the MC off again and cut an 1/8 inch off my bolt, it moved my pedal down about an inch and it actually feels pretty decent now.
I have the best front brakes I have ever had, and in the second test drive I am satisfied with the pedal travel and the braking. The rears wont lock under a load, but they do grab and I believe as they wear they will get better.

As a whole, if you have semi-decent drums (like I did)...I would NOT recommend this upgrade, however if you are somewhat of a weekend masochist and since you own a CJ I figure most of us must be, then by all means......ATTACK!

Thanks again for all the input and words of inspiration, I am glad I had a shop at my disposal. If I had to do this in my driveway, you would be writing me letters care of the NM corrections division!

I am not going to post a thread on this, as I don't want to contribute to the headaches of any others.

Tom
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Unread 04-01-2013, 07:37 AM   #128
waterdowg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titanjeep View Post
I had the same thought... but I couldn't find the SSBC instructions. Thanks for the info. I don't think the link you tried to post worked, but the section you posted was helpful. Based on the info I could find, none of the kits required new MCs or proportioning valve.

I also did a lot of reading about brake bleeding on the forum and it seems getting the rears bled properly (disc or no disc) is a challenge. Found several useful tips about how to deal with the proportioning valve that I will use on my next attempt.



Thanks for the shot of perspective... let the fun continue.
Sorry I fogot to add it.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...b-a130-1_2.pdf
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Unread 04-01-2013, 10:27 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterdowg View Post
Thanks... I am going to read through this and see if there are any additional insights to be gained.

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Originally Posted by Truck633 View Post

I am not going to post a thread on this, as I don't want to contribute to the headaches of any others.
Actually, your posts has been very helpful. None of the other threads talked about the issues/problems associated with this mod. If hadn't been for you, I don't think we would have had the necessary discussion on troubleshooting, actual performance, etc. Your experiences will make this thread more useful for others in the future. Thanks.
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Unread 04-02-2013, 12:31 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakershop View Post
Sherlocktk, what kind of bad things have you heard about line locks? I was thinking of adding some just for extra assistance to the mechanical parking brake for times when you have to jump out to open a gate on a steep hill.
I have not heard anything bad about them. I think they Are a fine addon but they are NOT a substitute for a mechanical brake. It seemed like people gave up on parking brake and thought this was an ok solution

Once you have a brake line burst you are pretty happy to have another alternative
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Unread 04-02-2013, 06:37 AM   #131
waterdowg
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I have heard of many people having issue and many people not having issue. But those that do start throwing parts at it. They change the the MC, Prop valve, adding a 2 lb pressure valve and even brake booster. But no one has narrowed it down to what needs to be done. Perhaps there is process to setting up Nissian calipers that's not be done. I know the older Nissians the E-brake had to be set a few times to caliper set. Perhaps this the is the issue.
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Unread 04-02-2013, 06:26 PM   #132
poorboywithjeep
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I hope you guys can get all these problems figured out.

image-2902434120.jpg

because I will be up against these problems real soon! Lol
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Unread 04-02-2013, 06:39 PM   #133
sherlocktk
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I am one of thoes people that did NOT have probelms. I am still very happy with my install. I did not mess with proportining (safety) valve. Did not change master cylinder. I did use a harbor freight vacuum brake bleeder (about $20), this type gets air bubbles out way faster and you dont need to mess with the proprotinging valve then. Its like a speeed gravity bleed. You can get about 3 oz of fluid through without issue.

Installed calipers used washers as shims to get everthing in the right spot. One thing I can remember doing a little "different" is I set the emergency brake when bleeding figuring that getting more space behind the pistion in the caliper was good to help get the air bubbles out. It did take a week or so for the pistons to stop retracting into the caliper housing. I think heat and cool cycles help with this.
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Unread 04-02-2013, 09:09 PM   #134
bakershop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlocktk

I have not heard anything bad about them. I think they Are a fine addon but they are NOT a substitute for a mechanical brake. It seemed like people gave up on parking brake and thought this was an ok solution

Once you have a brake line burst you are pretty happy to have another alternative
Yes, I agree, thanks for the clarification. Not to mention what would happen when the fuse blows to the solenoid or something!
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Unread 04-03-2013, 05:56 AM   #135
poorboywithjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlocktk
I am one of thoes people that did NOT have probelms. I am still very happy with my install. I did not mess with proportining (safety) valve. Did not change master cylinder. I did use a harbor freight vacuum brake bleeder (about $20), this type gets air bubbles out way faster and you dont need to mess with the proprotinging valve then. Its like a speeed gravity bleed. You can get about 3 oz of fluid through without issue.

Installed calipers used washers as shims to get everthing in the right spot. One thing I can remember doing a little "different" is I set the emergency brake when bleeding figuring that getting more space behind the pistion in the caliper was good to help get the air bubbles out. It did take a week or so for the pistons to stop retracting into the caliper housing. I think heat and cool cycles help with this.
I'm very happy to hear of your success and will definitely use your tips when I setup up mine! Thank you!
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