post #106 of Old 03-29-2013, 10:19 AM
poorboywithjeep
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My disk brake upgrade is the next part of my project.

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post #107 of Old 03-29-2013, 11:39 AM
Alex77cj7
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Do you have to have one piece axles to do the disc brake swap?

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post #108 of Old 03-29-2013, 11:45 AM
waterdowg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7 View Post
Do you have to have one piece axles to do the disc brake swap?
No. You and keep your 2 piece axles. Thats what I plan to do.
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post #109 of Old 03-29-2013, 11:53 AM
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterdowg

No. You and keep your 2 piece axles. Thats what I plan to do.
Thanks

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post #110 of Old 03-29-2013, 09:46 PM
Truck633
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AAAARRRRGGGGHHHHHH....

This is becoming a load of crap faster than I can bail!!!

Got it all buttoned up today, bled brakes out and couldn't get solid pedal. No problem, right? Just bleed some more! Half gallon of brake fluid later, I realize I have a problem. fronts lock up great, rear= nada.

Call up a buddy who has done a similar swap, he informs me that the master cylinder will NOT feed the calipers, he went through the same thing and turns out a MC from a 68 Corvette has the disk/disk resivior.
First trip to Autozone, pick up MC for 18 bucks, awesome, right? Twelve dollar core, but hey, I am sure I will be back sometime and will get it later. Get home, takes about 7 minutes to install, I set up the little tubes and proceed to bench bleed it on the Jeep..... Nothing!! Tap the bottom of new MC, see bubbles, think progress is in the works. Tap more, more bubbles...Thirty freaking minutes later, I am still tapping, still getting bubbles, and NO PEDAL!!!!

Decide MC is faulty, (have got inoperative parts before, just not very often) load up in truck, head back to autozone across town, swap for 'nother.

On way home, think about it for a bit and wonder if hole in MC is same as one I removed...Get home, find that new MC has a hole about two inches deeper than original MC. No problem, bench bleed new MC on bench this time, grind head from 3/8ths by two bolt and gently fit (cram) into hole in MC.

Install new MC w/bolt on Jeep, proceed in house to ask wife to help me bleed brakes. Wife is working out to her new Jilllian DVD's and reluctantly agrees to put on other clothes and come help me..Informs me I will be doing dishes for next week because she has to start over...(I knew I didn't like that Jillian chick, just now I know why!)

Get wife to pump, break fittings at MC...Pedal gets harder, yeah! three times later, I am back to having very little pedal, and pumping 4 or 5 times to get that, the fronts lock and the rears are like "hey, screw you"...


I am going to bed!!

If anybody who has done this "upgrade" has had any of these problems, please chime in......

I am 1 quart of brake fluid away from going full on postal!

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It's like dads new mistress. You hate her until you see her boobs.
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I bet the new bike riding monkey will pedal a lot faster!
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post #111 of Old 03-29-2013, 10:13 PM
sherlocktk
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I kind of had this problem. The rear brake seals kept retraction the piston in the 300zx caliper probably from the caliper sitting on The shelf for a while. It would retract maybe 1/8 of an inch. You can visually see this ncheck to see if you see any airgap on your brakes. This made for a really squishy pedal which got hard if you pumped it once. I drove it like this for a couple of weeks and it went away. The day it fixed itself I was using 100 pct brake winchcing trees out of my buddies lawn. After that it has worked like modern brakes
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post #112 of Old 03-29-2013, 10:27 PM
titanjeep
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Wow Truck... I am really sorry to hear about your issues. I will let you know if I run into similar issues when I try to bleed my system tomorrow.

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2003 KJ
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1988 Wagoneer
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post #113 of Old 03-30-2013, 07:59 AM
waterdowg
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I have heard of lots of guys having the same issue. I have seen a few claim to need a 2# Brake pressure valve. Like this one http://www.shop.sachserodshop.com/pr...sc?productId=2 Do search on this site.
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post #114 of Old 03-30-2013, 11:33 AM
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Going to bypass prop valve for rears... stripped one fitting already

I can't believe I brought this headache on of my own free will!!

CJ fixing to go up for sale!

____________________________________________
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Up here - we go by results, when you preached, people slept. When he flew, people prayed.

Quote:
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It's like dads new mistress. You hate her until you see her boobs.
Quote:
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I bet the new bike riding monkey will pedal a lot faster!
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post #115 of Old 03-30-2013, 10:15 PM
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First off.. Jarrod, sorry for totally hijacking your thread!!

Second. This has proven to be the most useless upgrade in the history of my CJ. I read the initial thread on the junkyard upgrade and thought how awesome it would be to have disks all around.
So far, I am in it to the tune of almost 500 bucks, and I still have no brakes to speak of in the rear.
Today I bypassed the proportioning valve for the rear disks, I left the fronts through it and with the new MC, they work better than they ever have. One would think that a straight shot from MC to rear wheels, the calipers would squeeze tighter than heck, I have bled till I have straight clear fluid and for the life of me, I don't understand why they won't stop the rotors!!!

I am going to head out and put the rears back through the prop valve, and bleed once more. (I know with them not closing now, by reducing the flow even more it is going to be worse) but I don't like the bypass I made, so at some point, after a LOT more research, I will find a prop valve, or wheel calipers that are compatible!

Any input from you guys that have had luck with this swap would be awesome... Maybe show me what the heck I am doing wrong!!



Thanks

____________________________________________
You don't need a parachute to skydive... You need a parachute to skydive TWICE!!!

Up here - we go by results, when you preached, people slept. When he flew, people prayed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vindicated View Post
It's like dads new mistress. You hate her until you see her boobs.
Quote:
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I bet the new bike riding monkey will pedal a lot faster!
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post #116 of Old 03-30-2013, 10:50 PM
bakershop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlocktk
I'm just glad some people will actually have parking brakes now. I'm tired of hearing the lies of line lock etc. The new brackets look great. I agree the slight production mods will work without issue. I have to admit it took me more than 2 minutes to do the pencil drawing but I wanted it to be complete.
Sherlocktk, what kind of bad things have you heard about line locks? I was thinking of adding some just for extra assistance to the mechanical parking brake for times when you have to jump out to open a gate on a steep hill.
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post #117 of Old 03-30-2013, 10:56 PM
billybooster2
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Couple of things to ask; were you manual or power brakes before you upgraded? Have you tried to 'test' the rear calipers off the rotor? Have you bled them off the rotor with a block of wood as a substitute for the rotor?

Were the calipers junkers or new?
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post #118 of Old 03-30-2013, 11:03 PM
bakershop
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Truck633, have you tried using a power bleeder, or are you doing this all manually. I find the power bleeder works out those pesky air bubbles better, and it has a larger reservoir. I usually go through more fluid than I need to just to be sure since it holds a gallon or more.
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post #119 of Old 03-30-2013, 11:07 PM
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Right, I would try the block of wood idea with the calipers off the rotor. Try inverting them while bleeding to make sure there are no air pockets with the bleeder in the highest position.
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post #120 of Old 03-30-2013, 11:28 PM
titanjeep
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So, I tried bleeding the brakes to day. The pedal is soft for about the first third of the travel and then firms up quickly. And, I am getting a "fountain" coming out of the MC's smaller reservoir when I depress the pedal.

Anybody have any thoughts? If it was just a soft pedal, I would guess that I just need to find a power bleeder and try again. But the fountain is confusing me. I could definitely use some help with this one. Thanks in advanced.

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1980 CJ5
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