maxima to amc 20 disc brake conversion brackets blue print needed? - Page 15 -
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post #211 of 212 Old 08-26-2014, 05:14 AM
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1973 CJ5 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: South Portland
Posts: 38
Just a few comments that may help

Sorry, I know this thread is a year old but I have just read all 200 or so posts and want to mention a couple of things. First let me say I am a retired ASE certified Master Auto Tech and have done a LOT of stuff in my gear head days including some mud racing.

A couple of things I want to mention for you guys with a soft pedal.

1) Check your calipers and make sure they are on the same plane as the rotors. Do not just assume they are. The flange on the axle housing you are bolting these brackets to is not a machined surface. If the caliper is not aligned it will most likely align itself when clamping. However, when releasing the pads will get pushed back further then they should. Now when you step on the brakes the pads need to move out further which will give your pedal a lot of travel.

2) A lot of people have complained the rears do not work and my guess is even though the brakes are undersized for larger tires they should work better than I have heard they do. BTW if you have larger tires and added weight to your vehicle your brakes are undersized. Here is a simple test. Take your Jeep out in sand and stomp on the brakes. Any wheel that does not lock up has an issue and indicates where you should focus. Now if you had wheels that did not lock up lets get these brakes bled and bled right. If you mounted your calipers in any other position other then the position they were mounted from the factory you are not going to get all the air out unless you put the caliper in that position. This is VERY important! So, to be clear if your calipers came off a 95 Maxima and they mount in the 9 O'clock position but you mounted yours at 12 O'clock you will not get the air out without removing the caliper and putting it in the 9 O'clock position. Do not listen to any statements that say point the bleeder up that just does not matter. What does matter is where that passage the bleeder is attached to ends up inside and it needs to be at 12 O'clock so the air can get to it.

I myself have a '73 304 3 speed which happens to have drum brakes all the way around. I have owned this Jeep for over 20 years. As you may know from experience after going through water there is no stopping plus the drums fill up with mud. So, if there is one thing I hate the most it is those drum brakes. I have not driven this thing for a couple of years but have dug it out am doing work and contemplating a four wheel disc brake conversion. Please do let me know if anyone has benefitted from my suggestions here. I would like to know how this set up works if they are installed correctly.

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post #212 of 212 Old 07-12-2015, 08:43 PM
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1981 CJ7 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 3
Cj DXF file for Brake Brackets

Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
I just cut 2 pair of those brackets on the plasma table last night... for a buddy.

I've got the DXF files if anyone needs them. I can also do those brackets for anyone who needs them.. figure $20 per set and $5 shipping in a Flat Rate Box.. cut from 3/8". PM if interested..
Looking at the DXF file for the Brackets you made. They look fantastic. Why reinvent the wheel when you already have it done. email: Trying to covert 81 CJ to rear disks.
81 CJ, YJ Tub, 400 SVC, 700 R4 trans, Bana 300 Twin stick, locked rear 33's
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