Parts list for manual to power steering and misc. comments
The Short list
1. Pump, cap and pulley (Ex NAPA,Rockauto,Oriellys,Autozone, Jeepforum classifieds,http://www.toyboxjeeps.com/ ,http://www.jwjeep.com/ , Ebay) New pulley Dorman part # 300-122 available at parts stores. From 1995-82 General Motors Cars & Trucks w/o Air Conditioning (various engines) https://www.dormanproducts.com look under PS pump pulley.
2. Hoses (Rockauto.com, Ex.4WD part # http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=8409#)
3. PS Gear Box (Ex NAPA,Oriellys,Autozone, Rockauto.com, http://www.pscmotorsports.com/80-86-...ring-gear.html)
4. PS bell coupler (Ex. Quadratec part # http://www.quadratec.com/products/56107_01.htm)
5. PS pitman arm (Ex.Quadratec part # http://www.quadratec.com/products/56110_02.htm)
6. Belt (Ex NAPA,Oriellys,Autozone)
7. PS pump mounting brackets (Jeepforum classifieds,http://www.toyboxjeeps.com/ ,http://www.jwjeep.com/ , Ebay)
8. Current gear box brackets or HD after market. (OEM or ex. after market HD http://rocktitemetalfab.com/store/pr...products_id=65)
9. Assorted bolts, washers, etc.
10. PS Fluid
11. Check to make sure that you have a two groove water pump pulley and a 2 groove crank
pulley. If not add them to the list.
For those who have a serp belt set up, here is a great write up using YJ box and pump
For those with a smog pump that has to stay on, a good thread from 1sik78cj7
• Pump, cap and pulley
- Most new or reman’d pump/reservoirs from a parts house do not come with pulley or cap. Use CJ, J10 or J20 pump. Differences are where the return line exits, and possibly pressure output. Not sure of the pressure diff. if any. New pulley is Dorman part # 300-122. Most parts houses can get Dorman products.
• Hoses – High pressure and low pressure
. I used a set from Crowne as they were bent to go under the radiator. If you are converting a 4 cyl. 150 you may have difficulty with the high pressure hose being too short even if they say they are for the 150. It’s off to a hydraulic hose shop if it is too short. The low pressure side is just hose clamps so changing the hose length is not a problem. http://picasaweb.google.com/85Yellow...29727671667026
You can see in this shot were they turn down and go under the radiator, then turn towards the frame and start to go up. Ok, so a little imagination is necessary. These are from Crowne. They have the bends in them to go under the radiator.
• Gear box
– CJ’s boxes are hard to find in a yard and are usually the most expensive as rebuilts from a parts house (don’t forget you have to have a core) FSJ, or J10 J20 are less expensive and easier to find. Make sure you have the correct spline count for the PS bell coupler on the input of the gear box. The CJ and Jeep boxes are Saginaw boxes, so GM cars from the same era have known to be good donors. If you are not doing the junk yard search and don’t want to hassle with the core, PSC (http://www.pscmotorsports.com/80-86-...ring-gear.html
)has nice stock boxes . Call them and they will build you one (rebuild one – no core charge) price is about $320. Good people and very good reputation. FSJ,J10 and J20 gear boxes have a little “nipple” on the end of the input shaft that supposedly needs to be cut off. Mine didn’t have it, and I can only assume that PSC knew that it had to be cut off for a CJ and did it. It is actually the end of a torsion bar in the gear box. You can always try the bell coupler on and see if there are clearance problems before cutting it off.
• PS bell coupler http://picasaweb.google.com/85Yellow...26546377922658
Power Steering bell coupler. Just has different spline count than manual bell coupler.
• PS pitman arm
It has a different spline count to fit the PS gear box output shaft.
Around water pump,crank and pump pulleys.
• PS pump mounting brackets
– 258 or AMC 150 are the same. GM 151 is NOT the same. The pump mounting bracket is 4 pieces. 2 steel and 2 aluminum. They do not need to be from a CJ, just about any AMC/Eagle with a 258 or 150 will have the same or similar bracket that will work fine. 1 piece bolts to block and intake, 1 piece bolts to water pump, 2 aluminum pieces bolt and sandwich the pump which is bolted and sandwiched between the steel brackets. Here is the parts manual drawing. Crossed out parts are for diesel. Pulleys 1 or 3 will work, you will just have an unused small pulley on #1. Brackets #5 or#4 will work. Again, you will have some extra steel with #4. Or if you have the emissions pump you will need # 4. The other parts are common.
Here are the mounting points for the brackets on a 258, they are the same for the 150.
Water pump mounts
Here are some shots of the unit mounted.
• The stock manual gearbox mounting brackets will work with the PS gear box. Factory PS used only two of the 3. All 3 will work with the PS gearbox or you can use just the 2. Or you can spend $60 to $120 for a Heavy Duty one piece aftermarket bracket. http://picasaweb.google.com/85Yellow...85603047197826
Here are the box mountings. The factory PS only uses #3 and #2. I used my original manual mounts (all three #'s 1,2 3.
Here is a link to the aftermarket bracket that I have ordered as I am in the middle (?) of a frame off. http://rocktitemetalfab.com/store/pr...products_id=65
I did find it easier to assemble the brackets and gearbox on (under) the my bench, then install it as a unit on the CJ.
• Be careful with the box you select from where ever you get it. Too fast a ratio box is not good for a SWB CJ!! You don’t want to turn the wheel a half inch and end up in the next lane over from the one you wanted to be in (that would be two lanes over or in a ditch !!) or have the back of the CJ coming around. The choice of box is yours and I am only passing along the things that I came across in researching the swap when I did mine. Find an expert and ask which box (ratio/donor) they would suggest if you are uncertain.
Removing /installing the gear box involves jacking the drivers side up to take the load off the spring and unbolting the shackle hanger. The gear box mounting has a bolt that it shares with the shackle hanger. This is probably the worst part of the removal/install. Getting the bolts out of the frame without snapping it or turning the nut in the frame. Best to soak the bolt and nut in PB Blaster or your favorite rust buster for a few days before the removal. As with any jacking of a CJ – make sure you have the proper jacks and jack stands. I did not disassemble the shackle and hanger, just unbolted the hanger from the frame. The spring did move some to the outboard side so I used a tie done to ratchet it back in line to bolt it back together.
I did find it easier to attach the PS lines to the gearbox before installing it to the frame. Was easier to fool with the lines than to try and get a wrench on the fittings when the box was installed on the frame.
The clamp for the bell coupler needs to be loosened and the bolt removed so that the input can be slid out when you remove the gear box. It may be rusted on. You also may need to remove the column bolts under the dash and the firewall mounting plates to give some play in the whole column/intermediate shaft/ gearbox assembly. The extra inch of movement can make the difference in getting things apart.
Chiltons or Haynes probably has a procedure that is much better than what I can give.
When installing the pump bracket and the pump, I left all the bolts loose with room to wiggle the parts around until all the bolts were in and then tighten them down.
Here is a link for more pics as well as all the ones above. You can enlarge them from the album.