Making Battery/Starter Cables Correctly...

[JeepHammer]

Making a battery cable correctly might seem like a no brainer,
But with 'Import' crap taking over the market of 'Pre-Mades' you about have to make you own to get a good, properly made cable anymore!

This is a 'How To...' article on doing that seemingly simple job correctly because the 'Import' countries can't seem to get it right!
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STARTING WITH THE BASICS,
To the left is Terminal Crimpers for LARGE terminals.
This is a $450 set, and you won't even need to buy/rent these for just making a few cables.
NAPA and most welding shops will crimp your terminals on for free if you buy the cable/terminals there!



Moving Clockwise,
HEAT SHRINK TUBING, Rubberized, with GLUE INSIDE.
This Rubberized insulation will shrink up with heat
(hence the name 'Heat Shrink')
And the glue inside will seal up all the place moisture and corrosion can start.

Vinyl heat shrink usually shiny surface and doesn't have glue, and it won't work NEARLY as well as the dull finish rubberized stuff shown in the picture.

CABLE CUTTERS, Channel Lock Brand (Love Mine!).
You won't have to buy these if you have your cable lengths with you, since the store will cut the cable to length for free.

SILVER BEARING ELECTRICAL SOLDER, Radio Shack p/n 64-013
Is small diameter for fine work, but you can double up about 4 or 5 strands for heavy work like this and it's quite effective.
Silver content makes it a VERY good electrical connector,
And it will stick to anything that is clean, dry and reasonably close together!

This is a SOLID COPPER Cadmium Plated, Crimp On Battery Terminal Connector!
Make no mistake, this is the REAL DEAL, sized for the positive or negative, and solid as a ROCK!
(not one of those cheap lead pieces of crap that are failing from the time you take them out of the package!)

SOLID COPPER RING TERMINAL CONNECTOR for the Starter Relay Battery Feed Line.
Again, no cheap junk here, just pure copper that will be CRIMPED, SOLDERED and have HEAT SHRINK protecting my joints for the next 30 or 40 years!
--------------------------

This next picture shows the cable stripped and inserted into the battery connector.
Notice the insulation is up against the connector, so I didn't strip enough. Time to take another 1/8" or so off the insulation.



So, here I actually stripped a tad too much, but I wanted to show you the copper from the cable BOTTOMS OUT in the terminal before crimping...



Then it's off to the big, bad crimpers!
Actually, Copper is a noble metal, and when you are working with PURE noble metals, you can 'Compress Weld' them together... They will bind with each other to become one piece if you can crimp them hard enough.




In this case, I have Cadmium plating between copper to copper contact,
And I'm using 'Battery Cable' instead of 'Virgin Copper Welding Cable', and I don't know if the 'Battery Cable' is Virgin Copper or an Alloy of some kind that won't compress correctly.

So, I CRIMP for the MECHANICAL CONNECTION, to make sure the cable terminal will stay on the wire...

Then I SOLDER for an ELECTRICAL CONNECTION!



Crimping IS NOT an Electrical connection, no matter what people tell you!
SOLDER is an Electrical connection!

Just remember to heat the TERMINAL LUG, not the joint or wire,
And DO NOT use too much solder in the wire, or you will ruin the insulation, make the wire stiff, and waste solder.

Once soldered,
You are looking at needing to seal up the exposed joint...
That means HEAT SHRINK TUBING in my case.



*IF* You are using all BLACK welding cable,
Heat Shrink of appropriate color is a good way to mark your Positive, Negative, Grounds, ect. since it comes in a rainbow of colors.



DO NOT Burn up the heat shrink! Recommended way to shrink is with a HEAT GUN, not a torch, but torch is what I was holding at the time!

Always start at the terminal, and work backwards on the heat shrink, so the terminal gets covered.
If you don't, as the insulation shrinks, it will pull off the terminal and uncover the joint you are trying to insulate!
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This is what the Heat Shrink looks like when it 'Shrinks'...
Look closely, and you can see the glue oozing out of the back end.
This glue seals out the moisture, and makes for a dandy seal of your work!



Here is a close up of the glue coming out of the back (and my ragged cutting job on the tubing )

[JeepHammer]

This is a picture of the Starer Relay Terminal Lug going on,



Notice the 1/16" of copper wire showing between insulation and terminal when the terminal is pushed fully on?
This time I didn't cut the insulation too far back for demonstration purposes...

This one too needs a full crimp, and like I wrote before, the store that sells you the cable and terminals will do the crimping for free, so you don't have to throw out $20 to $500 for crimpers!



Solder and add heat shrink like the terminal shown above, and you will turn up with this,



A properly sized battery/starter cable that will live as long as you do!

Now, this is the Battery To Starter Relay Cable,
And the Starter Relay To Starter Positive Cable shown Done, and ready to install along with the hard parts you need to make them up.



People ask why I add an extra two or three inches in the wire...
Well, you may need to cut a terminal off and replace if it gets too badly corroded, and the extra length give you the option to reuse your hefty, hand built cable again since there is nothing wrong past the end corrosion!

Although I normally use WELDING CABLE for starter applications,

(Finer Strands carry more amperage for the same size wire,
Welding cable insulation is rubberized instead of Vinyl so it handles heat, abrasion, oil, chemicals better, and the wire is usually virgin copper, no alloys, so it carries amperage better and will Pressure Weld with the correct crimpers so you don't have to solder.)

This is what I had laying around at the time, so this is what I used for the project.
1 Gauge Battery Cable should be heavy enough for ANY Jeep vehicle in ANY climate this side of the Arctic Circle!
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Parts lists will vary, but what you are looking for is 4 Ga. WELDING cable and solid copper terminals for normal battery and starter cables in 'Temperate' climates,

I would jump to 2 gauge. or 1/0 (Zero) gauge in COLD Climates.
..................

The Battery Terminal Connectors are available from places like NAPA,
Fastenal, Granger, and a ton of parts stores that cater to Semi Trucks.

The 'Ring' or 'Eye' terminals can be had at any of the above places, and all this stuff can be ordered on line if you live in the 'Boondocks'...
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PARTS LIST,
(incomplete, since I already had cable, heat shrink, solder, ect. laying around here, this is just what I have receipts handy for)

1 Gauge, Positive Terminal Battery Terminal Connector,
NAPA p/n 728014, $7.35 Each.

1 Gauge, Batter Cable, Vinyl Insulation with Medium size strands,
NAPA p/n 736110, $6.00 per Foot.

1 Gauge, Cable Lug Ring Terminal,
NAPA p/n CL138X, Package Of 10, $10.74
NAPA p/n 728036, Singles, $1.45 Each.

...........................


4 Gauge, Cable Lug Ring Terminal,
NAPA p/n 728035, Singles, $1.15 Each.

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The Following Are FASTENAL Part Numbers & Catalog Prices...
Heavy Lugs
These are heavy duty, Cast Copper, Lead Cadmium Plated Lugs.
These are the most heavy duty terminals I've ever used.
They REQUIRE a heavy crimper, and if you are smart, you will scuff the inside with sandpaper and use silver bearing solder in the electrical connection after crimping.

3/8" hole only.
0715713 4ga. $3.89
0715714 2ga. $3.97
0715715 1ga. $3.99
0715716 1/0 $4.02
0715717 2/0 $4.07
0715718 3/0 $4.16
0715719 4/0 $4.25

0715713, Left



0717041 Right,

3/8" hole only.
0717041 4ga. $4.41
0717042 1ga. $4.75
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These are less expensive 'Tubing Type' lugs made from extruded copper tubing.
They work fine and can be crimped with about any kind of crimping tool since they are soft copper.
I would still solder the connection points after crimping.



5/16" hole, 10 to a bag, prices are EACH, minimum order is usually 10.
0717056 8ga. 49¢
0717061 6ga. 68¢
0717065 4ga. 72¢
0717069 2ga. 97¢
0717073 1ga.$1.04
0717076 1/0 $1.19
0717079 2/0 $1.42



3/8" hole, 10 to a bag, minimum order of 10 each. prices are EACH...
0717057 8ga .70
0717062 6ga .72
0717066 4ga .87
0717070 2ga .97
0717074 1ga $1.08
0717077 1/0 $1.23
0717080 2/0 $1.46
0717082 3/0 $1.84
0717084 4/0 $2.35

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Straight Battery Terminals...

Proprietary, Straight, Solid Cast Copper, Lead Cadmium Plated, With Proper Stainless Steel Battery Bolt And Nut, HEAVY CRIMP TYPE.
THESE ARE HEAVY DUTY UNITS!

Negative Terminals,
0715659 8ga. $4.61
0715661 6ga. $4.61
0715663 4ga. $4.61
0715665 2ga. $4.65
0715667 1ga. $4.65
0715669 1/0 $4.74
0715671 2/0 $4.74
0715673 3/0 $4.75
0715675 4/0 $5.68



Positive Terminals,
0715660 8ga. $4.61
0715662 6ga. $4.61
0715664 4ga. $4.61
0715666 2ga. $4.65
0715668 1ga. $4.65
0715670 1/0 $4.74
0715672 2/0 $4.74
0715674 3/0 $4.75
0715676 4/0 $5.68
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[Lifesgoodhere]

I make my battery cable out of 00 welding cable. Finer copper, thicker, better all round. Thanks for this how to will be very useful for many people.

[atom73]

Hammer,
Love the write-up. An easy and cheap upgrade for my jeep, I want to do this little project with my girls. Can you recommend local type stores that carry the parts; cable, cad coated terminals, glue coated heat shrink, would crimp cable ends etc. I want to do this and plan to use your write-up as a cook-book.
Mike

[John Strenk]

Thanks JH. This is helpfull for me also. I wan't to install a dual battery setup this summer and looking for a neat installation. I was also kind of thinking about running dual alternators but not sure about that.

I got this wierd crimper someone gave me that you hit with a hammer to make the crimp. Worked the one time I needed it on a NEW set of cables that someone forgot to crimp properly but I don't think it's good enough to start from scratch.

[BESRK]

Nice writeup!

I was able to find a "hammer crimper" for about $20 at Northern. I bought a 50ft roll of welding cable and used it for all my starter/winching cables.

Just Google "Hammer Cable Crimper"

[Oily]

JeepHammer, unrelated PM from me in your inbox.

[GPER]

The new cables I made for my winch, I never crimped the connections. I used a propane torch and just soldered the end on good. Any problem with that?????

[John Strenk]

Originally Posted by BESRK

Nice writeup!

I was able to find a "hammer crimper" for about $20 at Northern. I bought a 50ft roll of welding cable and used it for all my starter/winching cables.

Just Google "Hammer Cable Crimper"

Yep, that's what it looks like.

[atom73]

Hammer, Bump?
What store did you purchase your materiel? I want to go with the same set-up you show, I like the looks of it.
Mike

[YeloCJ]

Here's my dual battery set up with #1 cables to the winch and linking the two battieries. The Wrangler system works well.
[IMG][/IMG]

[duffer]

Pretty much follow Hammer's method here also, but use 00 to 0000 welding cable (depending on length of run) crimp in hyd press and solder/heat shrink terminal. Welding cable is much finner stranded than automotive battery cable and has a higher amperage capacity for any given gauge. I think the solder is a big plus because it prevents corrosion building up inside the terminal end in the event that the heat shrink fails. Some of mine have passed to 40 year test and none have failed due to terminal installation. One point to keep in mind, especially if you have a long run, is that these are very unprotected circuts with very high amperage capacity and if you allow one to short, you probably will no longer have a Jeep. I always use Adel or Umpco clamps and add split loom to make sure there is no possibility of compromising the cable sheath.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Lifesgoodhere

I make my battery cable out of 00 welding cable. Finer copper, thicker, better all round. Thanks for this how to will be very useful for many people.

1/0 (Zero) Gauge, or 2/0 Gauge?
1/0 (zero) Gauge is PLENTY for any battery or winch this side of the arctic circle!

I use to use a lot of 2/0 (00) Gauge, but I've found my winch can't pull enough current to make wiring everything with 2/0 gauge worth it...

So now I wire everything with 1/0 (zero) gauge for winches, and 2 to 4 Gauge for starers and 'Normal' loads.
------------------------------------

Originally Posted by atom73

Hammer,
Love the write-up. An easy and cheap upgrade for my jeep, I want to do this little project with my girls. Can you recommend local type stores that carry the parts; cable, cad coated terminals, glue coated heat shrink, would crimp cable ends etc. I want to do this and plan to use your write-up as a cook-book.
Mike

First off, I applauded your getting 'Girls' involved!
As far as I'm concerned, EVERY WOMAN should know how to change battery cables, change tires, check and change fluids, ect.!
It's going to build self confidence at the very least,
And maybe give them a career path and help keep them out of trouble at the most!

Fastenal & NAPA, Any Large Truck Parts Store.
Most 'Nut & Bolt' suppliers carry full lines of battery cables, connectors, and all the other stuff, and most towns of any size have a NAPA, large truck parts store, Fastenal, ect.
Check the second post after a bit, I'm adding sources in the 'Parts List' section at the bottom.
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Originally Posted by John Strenk

Thanks JH. This is helpfull for me also. I want to install a dual battery setup this summer and looking for a neat installation. I was also kind of thinking about running dual alternators but not sure about that.

John,
Dual Alternators is a loosing path to follow, or at least it was for me...
I installed DUAL BATTERIES, and they have got me out of the 'Out Back' several times when the charging system quit...
Just turn off the radios, extra lights, ect, and the ignition will run for SEVERAL HOURS on just the batteries.
(being able to switch from CDI unit to HEI module 'BackUp' Helped conserve energy to get out from a certian 'Mosquitoe-Ville' overnight stay waiting for good parts the next day!)

I can even do small welding jobs off the batteries,
Pull my second battery and leave it as 'Take Along' power for someone that needs it, ect...
You can't do that with a second alternator...

I got this weird crimper someone gave me that you hit with a hammer to make the crimp. Worked the one time I needed it on a NEW set of cables that someone forgot to crimp properly but I don't think it's good enough to start from scratch.

It will work if you make sure you fill the connection with SOLDER!
Even the cheap hammer crimper will work well with solder!
As you well know from your work,
SOLDER IS THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION,
And the crimp is just the MECHANICAL connection...

Solder and insulation/environmental seal are what makes the connection, not the crimp!
I've even bashed the terminals with a hammer and crushed them in a vice when we didn't have crimping dies of any kind around,
And as long as you solder and heat shrink well, it just DOES NOT MATTER about the crimp as long as the IS a crimp!
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Originally Posted by BESRK

Nice writeup!

I was able to find a "hammer crimper" for about $20 at Northern. I bought a 50ft roll of welding cable and used it for all my starter/winching cables.

Just Google "Hammer Cable Crimper"

Like I said in the article, it really doesn't matter HOW you crimp, since that is just the MECHANICAL connection, so the $20 'Tool Sale' crimpers will work fine for the larger cables...
Remember, you would RATHER NOT punch holes in the terminals,
So if your hammer crimper has a sharp edge on it, or punches holes in the terminals,
TAKE IT TO THE GRINDER AND SPREAD THE LOAD OUT SOME,
Simply by reshaping the punch part a little...
For $20, it shouldn't bother you to grid away on the punch...
--------------------------------------

Originally Posted by YeloCJ

Here's my dual battery set up with #1 cables to the winch and linking the two battieries. The Wrangler system works well.
[IMG][/IMG]

The biggest problem I have with this set up is the same problem I have with ALL 'Disconnect' or 'Isolated' systems except my own design...

If you follow the current path from battery #1, the isolated battery,
You will notice that current goes through a Relay ('Solenoid'),
Then travels to the second battery... Passing through two more connectors,
THEN it finally goes out to ANOTHER Starter Relay!

So, now you have the amperage from TWO batteries trying to get through ONE starter relay that isn't sufficient to transfer enough amperage in cold weather from ONE battery!

See, the RELAYS are the 'Restriction' point in the circuit.
There are 'Breaker Contacts' inside that relay, and when Fresh & New, they only pass MARGINAL amounts of amperage...

As the wear during use, the contact surfaces carbon up, become pitted, distorted, ect. and don't pass NEARLY as much current as they should...

Now, they can't pass the current ONE battery can throw at them,
Now you want to add a SECOND battery to heat up and burn away what little contact surface there is left?.....
That doesn't make sense to me.

(and I'm sure now that I've diagrammed this, and put it in print, someone will put it up for sale on E-bay or somewhere...)

I run a SECOND starter Relay in PARALLEL, instead of Two in Series.
The amperage from the Second Battery Gets it's own Starter Relay, so the amperage to the starter is DOUBLED instead of just heating up the single relay and burning it faster...



Instead of one feeding into another, then the entire mess trying to get through the ONE starter relay,
This system has TWO relays, which are good for trail redundancy, and it won't overload/burn up the single relay with TWICE the amperage it was intended to have...

The added cost is an oil pressure switch, and a second COMMON starter relay.
-------------------------------------

Originally Posted by duffer

Pretty much follow Hammer's method here also, but use 00 to 0000 welding cable (depending on length of run) crimp in hyd press and solder/heat shrink terminal.

Welding cable is much finner stranded than automotive battery cable and has a higher amperage capacity for any given gauge.

I think the solder is a big plus because it prevents corrosion building up inside the terminal end in the event that the heat shrink fails.

Some of mine have passed to 40 year test and none have failed due to terminal installation.

One point to keep in mind, especially if you have a long run, is that these are very unprotected circuts with very high amperage capacity and if you allow one to short, you probably will no longer have a Jeep. I always use Adel or Umpco clamps and add split loom to make sure there is no possibility of compromising the cable sheath.

Couldn't have said it better myself...

I use smaller cable now for light duty starters, and I use Parallel starter relays, since the starter relays are the 'Restriction' and not the cables...

[Lifesgoodhere]

sorry bout that, that was a typo... I meant to say 0 gauge.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Lifesgoodhere

sorry bout that, that was a typo... I meant to say 0 gauge.

Nothing wrong with that, especially if it gets to -10°F. or colder where you are,
(mine fired right up at -15°F. this year, and NO ONE was more amazed than me it did!)

OR,
If you have a winch.
A winch at 'Full Pull' will draw more amperage than ANY of the engine starters!

I usually wire 4 Gauge for starters, ground cables, ect.
If there is a winch involved, the cable Immediately jumps up to 2 Gauge,

And if that winch is more than 5,000 lb. pull, the size goes up to 1/0 (zero) gauge.

8,000 lb. and above, the winch gets 2/0 Gauge for supply and ground!