Major help needed getting CJ5 to run again -
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post #1 of 3 Old 04-16-2002, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Major help needed getting CJ5 to run again

Let me start by saying I can't take the '77 CJ5 into the shop since all the emissions vacuums have been plugged before I bought it. Secondly I've been strugling to get her running for about 2 months in preparation for the warm weather and it was 90 degs today in Michigan and I had to drive my Saturn into work while passing all the other jeeps with their tops down.

Now for the problem: It was idling extremely rough while blowing some significant smoke and had NO power, in fact it crawled to get into the garage. A friend came over and we rotated the timing until it idled smooth. However the timing was advanced well above 10 deg in fact I could hardly see the mark. I had to quit working on it for the evening and the next day I went to take it for a ride and the same symptoms occurred. I tried to move the timing again, more back to the original position and had no luck, in fact now it won't even start. Things I've noticed. One I was low on fuel and I had put some gas stabilizer in the tank earlier this winter. There wasn't a strong fuel smell when I purposely tried to flood the engine. I am getting fuel since I can see it through the carbuerator. I also noticed I'm getting fuel in the oil which wasn't too surprising since I know I burn oil so I assumed the fuel could go the other way if the engine wasn't firing (The fuel had to go somewhere). A friend suggested changing the oil before I sieze up the engine. I've since added more fuel to the tank but I'm not sure I've completely purged out the fuel in the lines. I've changed the spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, Ignition wire, checked the ignition coil resistance, checked the electrical module inside the distributor resistance, replaced the fuel filter,rebuilt the carb. (which by the way does anyone know what the factor settings are for the two screws that control the fuel to air mixture. (That could be a source of my problem, but the symptoms before and after the carb rebuild were the same). I think that's all I've done, but if I go any further I'll probably screw things up even worse.

Any help, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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post #2 of 3 Old 04-16-2002, 11:10 PM
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The best place to start on your carburator settings. The factory setpoints seem to allways be very close for me. Screw in the air and the fuel mixture screws in all the way, Then back them out 1 & 1/4 turns exactly.

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post #3 of 3 Old 04-16-2002, 11:50 PM
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I would do all of the following:

Check compression on all cylinders.

As far as fuel in your oil, check out your fuel pump first. From what you described it seems your not getting enough fuel anyway, so hook up a pressure gauge to it to verify proper pressure. If the pumps been on there for a while I would strongly recommend replacing it anyway.

Put as much fresh gas in your tank as possible.

For your idle mixture hook up a vaccuum gauge to a manifold source (not the ported one for your vaccuum advance) You want to keep the vaccuum as high as possible while holding the proper idle rpm. For fuel economy I would recommend going a LITTLE leaner. There are also plently of places on the net that can tell you how to properly tune your engine with only a vacuum gauge as well as how to diagnose problems with it.

Take your vaccuum advance line off and plug it while setting your base timing. Do it by the book.

Check your entire intake and carb base for vaccuum leaks. You could use WD40 for this but I recommend blowing propane with a torch (dont light the torch). RPMs will jump up if you find a leak.

If none of the above helps you out I would check the timing chain. I had about the same problems on a 304 and there was so much slack on the chain that it was nailing the side of the cover.

Good Luck


A stroke bolder, a pinch better.
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