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TeraFlex Now at Rockridge 4WD! BEST DEALS around!Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsENGO QUADLUX 6" to 54" LED AMBER AND WHITE MULTI

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Unread 12-22-2008, 02:24 PM   #16
AbsolutXJ
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1953 M-38 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Farmville, Virginia
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I spent the afternoon fabbing up a dolly to push both the frame and the body around on for paint, body repair, etc. Pictures attached.

dsc01543.jpg

1/2"x6" carriage bolts hold the frame to the dolly through the spring mounts

dsc01544.jpg

5" casters from Lowe's roll suprisingly well across the gravel driveway. Very please with this.

dsc01545.jpg

dsc01546.jpg

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Willys M38A1 - project vehicle
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Unread 12-30-2008, 11:10 AM   #17
AbsolutXJ
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I spent last Friday taking a road trip (460 miles) from Farmville to northern New Jersey to grab a M38A1 for parts. Here are some fuzzy cell phone pictures of the parts Jeep.

img00232.jpg

img00233.jpg

img00234.jpg

I believe this is an L Head but somebody speak up because I'm not sure

img00236.jpg

The girlfriend out junkyard hunting with the guys. (clearance lights are NOT for the Jeep!)

img00230.jpg
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Unread 12-30-2008, 02:27 PM   #18
SuB8HaVeN
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Looks like a L-134 to me. Lucky you, I never been able to drag any of my past women out to a junkyard...

Anywho, I'd grab up that M38 if it's cheap no matter what. But if you want, pull the plugs, pour in some oil, PB Blaster, or Marvel mystery oil, and get a socket and breaker bar and at least see if the motor is stuck before you buy it.
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Unread 12-30-2008, 02:31 PM   #19
AbsolutXJ
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Already bought the Jeep...owner says that he had it running a couple of weeks ago before he removed the carb and gas tank. Havent started tearing into it yet. I guess my question is...is the block on an F head the same as the block on an L head?
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Last edited by AbsolutXJ; 12-30-2008 at 02:42 PM..
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Unread 01-01-2009, 10:28 AM   #20
Binford
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It is my understanding that the L-head has both the intake and exhaust valves in the block while the F-head has the intake valves in the head. That would suggest to me, very much a layman when it comes to engines, that the blocks would have to be different enough that they could not be interchanged. Lots of parts swap, from what I understand though.

Cute girl. And she'll go with you to the junkyard?! Dude, hang on to that one!
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Unread 01-04-2009, 04:39 PM   #21
AbsolutXJ
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Small update for the weekend:

Got the frame primed with some Por-15 primer. It seems to work alright until the spray gun messed up. I think I'll wait the 12-24 hours and let it set then hit it with some high grit sandpaper. I forgot my camera so no pictures of the progress. The next step will be to paint the frame black with some gloss implement paint which is far less expensive than POR-15 and repels rust just as well.
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Unread 01-04-2009, 05:40 PM   #22
SuB8HaVeN
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F-134 and L-134 are certainly different blocks.
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Unread 01-06-2009, 06:31 PM   #23
vikingxj
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Very nice! I have subscribed to this thread as I would also like to do this, but preferably with a WWII era Jeep. They're hard to find, but I'm patient!
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Stock for now...with a JCR Pre-Runner bumper.

Soon: 3.5" RE Lift, 31" BFG MTs

[QUOTE=FML]Today, I saw a friend in the street but he didn't see me, so as a joke I decided to ring him. He took his mobile out of his pocket, sighed and didn't pick up. FML[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=NEVERSWEAT]I march right back into the laundry room open up her wash machine and grab the prettiest panties I could immediately find to sniff the crouch out of.
Who should walk through the door as I am wearing these damn things like a gas mask but her.. [/QUOTE]
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Unread 01-06-2009, 07:21 PM   #24
Lifesgoodhere
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hey I got a f head thats super clean, loose, and low miles (8000 miles on 1 rebuild) I will sell it to you for a grand all ready to go!

nice build you have going their! I don't think you need clearance markers if your Jeep was built prior to when they make them required. Should check on this. Thats just what I have been told at a couple car shows I've been to. I need to know this also, but can't find that info on DMV's website.

good luck!
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Unread 01-16-2009, 04:07 PM   #25
AbsolutXJ
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Sorry it's been a while since my last update. It's been super cold and I've been busy with work. Since my last update I have been working on parting out my spare Jeep and attemtping to work on a rolling chasis for my '53. Today I managed to attack some of the springs and shackles with the wire wheel.

Shackles before and after wire wheeling (Grease fittings have since been removed and restored)

dsc01589.jpg

Springs ready to prep and paint

dsc01590.jpg

Radiator from parts Jeep. Can anyone tell me if this is a stock Willys radiator or junk? If it's an original I'll find somewhere to clean it up. When it was pulled it held coolant so that's a plus...

dsc01592.jpg

dsc01593.jpg

dsc01594.jpg
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Unread 01-16-2009, 05:38 PM   #26
Lifesgoodhere
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thats a stock one. a bit damaged though. I would first do a leak test to it to see if their are any holes. if no holes, take it to a radatior shop and have them do a pressure test. then just clean it up (if it is good) and it should work fine. If it were me, I would replace it with a NEW AMERICAN MADE ONE.
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Unread 01-17-2009, 09:27 AM   #27
AbsolutXJ
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I think I'll drop it by the radiator shop to see what they have to say. Apparently it looks as if the shroud is rusted out beyond repair although the radiator itself looks to be in decent shape. As I stated, the radiator was full of fluid when I pulled it but good thought on the pressure test. I would consider buying a new one although they're so freaking expensive it's just not cost effective for me at this point.
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Unread 01-17-2009, 07:09 PM   #28
Binford
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A radiator shop could fix that one up for you at significantly less than the cost of a new one.

For your springs, if it's not already too late, I'd recommend painting them with Slip Plate (#1).

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Unread 01-17-2009, 08:07 PM   #29
Jeepfreak81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbsolutXJ View Post
I think I'll drop it by the radiator shop to see what they have to say. Apparently it looks as if the shroud is rusted out beyond repair although the radiator itself looks to be in decent shape. As I stated, the radiator was full of fluid when I pulled it but good thought on the pressure test. I would consider buying a new one although they're so freaking expensive it's just not cost effective for me at this point.
That is a radiator for an L-head, I am not sure if the F-head one was the same or not. The radiator shop may not want to touch it, however if they pressure test it likely they will say it will leak as usually they pressure test @ 15psi. That radiator was designed to run @ 4 psi-~8 psi or so. I was able to get my radiator rodded out and it works great. They said it leaked, but with my 7psi cap it has always been fine.

If you don't use the radiator they usually fetch a decent price.


Great build, glad to see someone keeping one fairly stock

www.g503.com would be a help to you.
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Unread 02-03-2009, 01:55 PM   #30
95GreenWrangler
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Aww I totally miss the Jeep, I wish we had the time to work on it like you. Btw, not that I think you want it or want to come get it. Forgot that I've got the original plow that goes with it, it just wasn't at the house so we forgot about it. Let me know if theres any interest in it. I'm def. gunna keep checking out this build. Nice job so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AbsolutXJ View Post
I spent last Friday taking a road trip (460 miles) from Farmville to northern New Jersey to grab a M38A1 for parts. Here are some fuzzy cell phone pictures of the parts Jeep.

Attachment 61013

Attachment 61014

Attachment 61015

I believe this is an L Head but somebody speak up because I'm not sure

Attachment 61016

The girlfriend out junkyard hunting with the guys. (clearance lights are NOT for the Jeep!)

Attachment 61017
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