I was going to do a leakdown test, my father has an actual leak down tester (Two gauge set up) from when he was an aircraft mechanic. The problem was that the engine has to be operating temp (i do believe) and my Engine is on the stand. Also, My father could not find his leak down tester, the last he used it was late 70's. Its probably stashed away somewhere.
>>And probably has rotted hoses anyway.
So I have the Engine completely apart, This thing is like brand new, If I knew this before, I would have not touched it. I did notice one rod bearing that had a slight score it is, the relating crank surface is ok though. Also, one main bearing looks to have more wear on one end than the other, maybe the bearing wasn't seated all the way down? These maybe non-issues to someone with experience, I might be making more out of it than it is.
>>Maybe, and they don't necessarily wear uniformally as some mains take more load than others. The score is not good though, so replace those bearings (and look for markings of oversizes).
Anyways, some of the cam bearings look to be marked up. I took great care taking the cam out so I don't think it was me, It might have happened when some one put the cam in? I'm thinking of replacing all the bearings for peace of mind.
>> They do get slightly marked up as it's almost impossible to keep the cam from making contact going in and out. (I use a looong bolt in the face for leverage)
How hard is it to replace cam bearings? Any special tips?
>> Piece of cake on the stand. Does require a special tool any machine shop will have. Maybe they'll rent it or you can bring in the block. Takes 15-20 minutes to remove and replace.
Also, Hammer metioned about ring grooves that are lined up. When I took out the pistons, the ring grooves where all over the place, what keeps the rings from rotating? I think that long time ago, I rebuilt an engine, It might have been a 2 stroke, that had a small pin in the ring groove to keep the rings from rotating, I'm going back 12+ years ago.
>> They rotate naturally. I have pulled many apart to find the gaps lined up. Nothing you can do about that.
One more thing that I noticed; On the side if the connecting rods and connecting rod caps, there are numbers. I thought that these numbers referenced the location of the connecting rod in reference to the block, (1,2,3,4,5,6) Well I have 4,5,5,5,2,4.
Maybe They had to replace the original rods with ones from other motors? The caps do correspond with the rods and are color coded with paint where the stampings are located.
>> I have seen plenty with good, odd or no markings. I mark them appropriately on tear down if not already. Never mattered to me as I was always resizing them anyway, but your theory could be correct. Any cosmetic damage inside the block from scatter?
blah blah blah, ok, I'll shut up for now,
Thanks for all your help!