Do you need a low cost, Small base circle distributor for your AMC V-8 for fuel injection?
Something that doesn't get into the power steering pump and doesn't stick up like the HEI distributors do?
Follow along and we'll get you there for CHEAP!
(As far as I know, this hasn't been published anywhere before, so when it catches on, expect it to show up in the 'Jeep' and 'AMC' magazines...)
----------------------
This is what I'm stating with, a Breaker Points distributor from a '72-'73 Jeep CJ 304 V-8 engine,
Or '72-'74 Full Size Jeep 304 to 401 FSJ engine.
If you choose to pass the Junk Yard search,
Then buy one reman for about $50 from the local parts store and start with something clean and tight.
Your basic breaker point Delco Remy
---
There is plenty of room for the 7 pin GM HEI module under these housings.
---
This is to prove that any old grimy piece of crap can work for this particular purpose if you have the know how...
---
First Things First,
Put the rotor on the top of the distributor, and drill or paint a 'Divot' or 'Dot' so the gear gets back on the shaft with the 'Dot' and rotor nose on the same side...
If you have a real Delco gear, it will have a 'Divot' already, but some reman distributors don't have them and you can make your own.
Then need to tear the distributor down to 'Nuts & Bolts', this is a pretty easy operation,
You first drive the roll pin out of the distributor gear, taking care NOT to loose the roll pin or housing shims,
Also notice the 'Divot' in this photo.
They you pull the distributor gear off, DO NOT loose the pin, shims between gear and housing or the gear!
If you are starting with a Reman distributor, this should be simple,
If you have an old crusty one like this, you might have to soften the crud stuck to the distributor shaft, which can take some soaking and more than one try to get the shaft out of the housing.
Each time you try, you will shave a little more crud loose from the shaft...
And eventually it will come loose without pulling the top shaft bushing...
---------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------
Now it's time to DIS-assemble the vacuum advance and breaker points trigger plate...
DO NOT lose the little 'Wave Ring' 'C' clip used to retain the advance plate, you will be reusing it again...
This is what we call a 'Jesus' part, if you break it or lose it, it's VERY hard to replace, so take care when you are removing it and DON'T LOSE IT!
LOCATION, and this is really hard to photograph,
Find the ENDS, work an end out of the groove and 'Unscrew' the WAVE RING GENTLY!
RIGHT is the Wave Ring style Circle Clip, And you will see why it's called a 'Wave Ring' when you get it off, the 'Warble' bends in it are factory,
LEFT is a way to keep those small parts for the gear install together and keep them from getting lost...
----------------------------------
Now, there is a rubber wire strain relief Grommet in the bottom of the distributor, and you will need to take the wire loose form the breaker points, or feed some extra wire up though that rubber Grommet,
Then you can lift the advance plate out of the distributor body.
There is usually a 'Ground' wire attached to one of the vacuum advance screws
IF I CAN CONVERT THIS WORN OUT FITLY MESS, YOU CAN TOO!
The only POWER TOOLS so far is a Dremel tool or a Round File!
-----------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
Now, you need to mark the trigger point, find the contactor on the breaker point arm and mark the location on the center bushing...
Here is a set of breaker points, same AMC V-8 Application, with bright RED contractor, Shows up better in pictures...
And mark that contactor point,
In this case, it's the 'Sharpie' mark on the plate, and although the picture doesn't show it up,
There is also a small file notch on the bushing collar.
That scratch is there so when the 'Sharpie' mark disappears during cleaning, I will have orientation.
IF YOU LOSE YOUR MARK, DON'T PANIC!
All you have to do is fit the old breaker points on the plate again, find your location, and mark it again!
(Good reason not to throw things out until you are done!)
-----------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
I usually scrap the grease catch ring (it doesn't work, obviously... See picture above...),
And I get rid of the 'Ground' shown on this plate, we aren't using anything that needs a 'Ground', so it's just in the way...
One thing I've noticed about these 'Jeep' advance plates,
The grease collar is STUBBORN to get off...
Most plates with a 'Delco' part number stamped into them come right off, but these are often induction welded to the plate, so a Dremel tool is usually the best way to get the collar off.
Something else,
Delco stamped plates usually have the 'Ground' spot welded to the bottom, where these often have it right up on top in the way when you are doing this conversion...
Once this plate is cleaned off and the trigger point is marked,
We are ready to rebuild with a 'Breaker-Less Trigger (Stator)...
Something that doesn't get into the power steering pump and doesn't stick up like the HEI distributors do?
Follow along and we'll get you there for CHEAP!
(As far as I know, this hasn't been published anywhere before, so when it catches on, expect it to show up in the 'Jeep' and 'AMC' magazines...)
----------------------
This is what I'm stating with, a Breaker Points distributor from a '72-'73 Jeep CJ 304 V-8 engine,
Or '72-'74 Full Size Jeep 304 to 401 FSJ engine.
If you choose to pass the Junk Yard search,
Then buy one reman for about $50 from the local parts store and start with something clean and tight.
Your basic breaker point Delco Remy
---
There is plenty of room for the 7 pin GM HEI module under these housings.
---
This is to prove that any old grimy piece of crap can work for this particular purpose if you have the know how...
---
First Things First,
Put the rotor on the top of the distributor, and drill or paint a 'Divot' or 'Dot' so the gear gets back on the shaft with the 'Dot' and rotor nose on the same side...
If you have a real Delco gear, it will have a 'Divot' already, but some reman distributors don't have them and you can make your own.
Then need to tear the distributor down to 'Nuts & Bolts', this is a pretty easy operation,
You first drive the roll pin out of the distributor gear, taking care NOT to loose the roll pin or housing shims,
Also notice the 'Divot' in this photo.
They you pull the distributor gear off, DO NOT loose the pin, shims between gear and housing or the gear!
If you are starting with a Reman distributor, this should be simple,
If you have an old crusty one like this, you might have to soften the crud stuck to the distributor shaft, which can take some soaking and more than one try to get the shaft out of the housing.
Each time you try, you will shave a little more crud loose from the shaft...
And eventually it will come loose without pulling the top shaft bushing...
---------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------
Now it's time to DIS-assemble the vacuum advance and breaker points trigger plate...
DO NOT lose the little 'Wave Ring' 'C' clip used to retain the advance plate, you will be reusing it again...
This is what we call a 'Jesus' part, if you break it or lose it, it's VERY hard to replace, so take care when you are removing it and DON'T LOSE IT!
LOCATION, and this is really hard to photograph,
Find the ENDS, work an end out of the groove and 'Unscrew' the WAVE RING GENTLY!
RIGHT is the Wave Ring style Circle Clip, And you will see why it's called a 'Wave Ring' when you get it off, the 'Warble' bends in it are factory,
LEFT is a way to keep those small parts for the gear install together and keep them from getting lost...
----------------------------------
Now, there is a rubber wire strain relief Grommet in the bottom of the distributor, and you will need to take the wire loose form the breaker points, or feed some extra wire up though that rubber Grommet,
Then you can lift the advance plate out of the distributor body.
There is usually a 'Ground' wire attached to one of the vacuum advance screws
IF I CAN CONVERT THIS WORN OUT FITLY MESS, YOU CAN TOO!
The only POWER TOOLS so far is a Dremel tool or a Round File!
-----------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
Now, you need to mark the trigger point, find the contactor on the breaker point arm and mark the location on the center bushing...
Here is a set of breaker points, same AMC V-8 Application, with bright RED contractor, Shows up better in pictures...
And mark that contactor point,
In this case, it's the 'Sharpie' mark on the plate, and although the picture doesn't show it up,
There is also a small file notch on the bushing collar.
That scratch is there so when the 'Sharpie' mark disappears during cleaning, I will have orientation.
IF YOU LOSE YOUR MARK, DON'T PANIC!
All you have to do is fit the old breaker points on the plate again, find your location, and mark it again!
(Good reason not to throw things out until you are done!)
-----------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
I usually scrap the grease catch ring (it doesn't work, obviously... See picture above...),
And I get rid of the 'Ground' shown on this plate, we aren't using anything that needs a 'Ground', so it's just in the way...
One thing I've noticed about these 'Jeep' advance plates,
The grease collar is STUBBORN to get off...
Most plates with a 'Delco' part number stamped into them come right off, but these are often induction welded to the plate, so a Dremel tool is usually the best way to get the collar off.
Something else,
Delco stamped plates usually have the 'Ground' spot welded to the bottom, where these often have it right up on top in the way when you are doing this conversion...
Once this plate is cleaned off and the trigger point is marked,
We are ready to rebuild with a 'Breaker-Less Trigger (Stator)...