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Unread 06-12-2011, 10:31 PM   #1
ymurf
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Loose hub bearings

My bearings in my front hubs need tightened. I have never had the front hubs apart on a jeep. I took the lockout off and was afraid to mess with anything else. What all has to come off and how to get down to the nut to tighten it?

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Unread 06-13-2011, 06:08 AM   #2
h2ojeep
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many can write a detail of the components coming out of the hub after you remove the 6 bolts hold the lock out to the hub. But it would be best if you look at one of the manuals; where you will find diagrams and explanation for removing and adjusting the bearings.

In anycase, If I go into my bearings, I always clean and repack before installing. You will also need snap-ring pliers and the large wheel bearing lock nut socket.

There was a good post a couple of months ago, I will look for it and link it to you.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 06:13 AM   #3
gojeepin
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Are you sure the bearings need tightend? What indication did you get that they were loose?
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Unread 06-13-2011, 06:26 AM   #4
h2ojeep
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Ok, I found the link quicker than I thought. It is one that Jeephammer responded and he is very complete in his explanation.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ca...g-help-673545/

And here is a link to the socket, you can buy them from many vendors. http://www.4wd.com/Spindle-Nut-Socke...?t_pn=CROA692N

I would also suggest some good quality wheel bearing grease, water proof and synthetic. Personally I use the green environmental grease sold through tractor supply.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 06:27 AM   #5
CALOcruiser
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Best thread for front axle work:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/wa...bs-ect-675585/
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Unread 06-13-2011, 07:55 AM   #6
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymurf View Post
My bearings in my front hubs need tightened. I have never had the front hubs apart on a jeep. I took the lockout off and was afraid to mess with anything else. What all has to come off and how to get down to the nut to tighten it?
New, inexperienced guy, so I'm not going postal...

When the hub bearings are 'Loose', you can't just tighten them,
Anytime you find 'Slack' in the hub, you MUST take the hub down off the spindle and find the issue!

You may get lucky and it was just improper wheel bearing preload,
You may find it was just slight wear and everything else is fine.
You may find someone didn't seat the 'Race' correctly and it moved...

But you MUST LOOK!

You MUST look at the bearings to see if they are damaged!
Tightening up Damaged bearings is a pretty good way to wipe out spindle, hub and even loose the hub/wheel on the highway!

---------------------------------------

This isn't hard, but you will probably want to get yourself a wheel seal for both sides before you yank the hub.
No sense putting an old seal back on when they are $3 each!

Follow the links, have a look in your service manual, and you will figure it out pretty quickly, not hard at all.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 08:18 AM   #7
CALOcruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
New, inexperienced guy, so I'm not going postal...

When the hub bearings are 'Loose', you can't just tighten them,
Anytime you find 'Slack' in the hub, you MUST take the hub down off the spindle and find the issue!
For sure!!! You might find this:

Or this if you keep looking (the stuff in between didn't look much better):
p1080576.jpg   p1050745.jpg  
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Unread 06-13-2011, 10:40 AM   #8
Ken4444
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This writeup on replacing the brake rotors has details and photos for disassembling the front hubs.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 11:47 AM   #9
JeepHammer
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Yup, gotta love that rotten chocolate milkshake in the diff carrier!
Found that myself!
Just one of those 'PO' things you have to take care of!

What amazes me is the bearings, gears, ect. all still WORK after something like that has been done to them!

I went through mine, new seals, new bearings, set the gears back up since the pinion was slopping around and it works FINE with the old gears!
I was AMAZED the gears didn't give up with all the slack and crud getting mashed in them!

Best argument I can make for taking things down and inspecting them when you find something wrong...
Or just doing a maintinance inspection.
Diff gaskets are about $6, and it's MUCH better to find/fix that than to leave it and *Hope* nothing is wrong!

Flush out the carrier using Mineral Oil
(Mineral oil will NOT effect your lubricant when you fill it back up, it will leave behind a rust resistant coating, and it's CHEAP and easy to work with)
Clean out the vent and put a new hose on while you are there,

Put the cover/gasket back on and fill with good lubricant,
Don't forget to turn the wheels several time both directions with the hubs locked in and the transfer case in neutral so you work that fresh lubricant into the bearings/seals before you drive it!

If you need to replace seals, you can pop the carrier out by loosening 4 bolts, but be aware you have to pry that carrier to the ring gear side before you tighten those bolts back up,
AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH!

Axle seals are kind of a pain to get to, but it's worth the effort.

Pinion seals are a pain all the way around! It's the amount of torque you have to put on that pinion nut, most guys don't have a large enough breaker bar or impact wrench to get them off (and impact wrench on fine threads is NEVER a good idea, even taking the nuts loose)

NEVER use an impact wrench to put that pinion nut back on!
You will screw up the 'Crush Sleeve' or bearing preload for sure...
So messing with pinion seals should be done by someone that knows how to do it without screwing up your pinion preload...

As for hubs,
The water I see in that picture is EXACTLY what the spindle to axle gap grease fill upgrade I posted is for.
Water gets past that inside spindle seal and bearing pretty easily, but if you fill that entire 6" of spindle tube up with grease, water can't penetrate to wind up where you see it.

Using lock out to hub gaskets helps also.

Any time you have the hub off the spindle, REPLACE THAT INSIDE HUB SEAL!
It's $3, and worth EVERY penny!
Remember to grease the seal lip and it's mating surface on the spindle or you will wipe out a new seal inside of the first 5 miles!

It's up to you, if you need help, we are all here to help!
Feel free to ask questions, the only 'Stupid' question is the one you don't ask, then screw something up because you didn't!
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Unread 06-13-2011, 05:55 PM   #10
ymurf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gojeepin View Post
Are you sure the bearings need tightend? What indication did you get that they were loose?
With jeep up on jack stands you can grab the tire on both sides and has to much play.Its not in the front end,Its in the bearing.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 07:36 PM   #11
gojeepin
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OK... You didn't say what you had done to determine it was the bearing. There are a lot of things that can make a wheel wobble.

Like JeepHammer stated earlier, you shouldn't just tighten them up. You need to know if the nuts just backed out or if the bearings are trashed.

I'd replace not just the hub bearings and races but also the bearings inside the spindle for the axle shafts.
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Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read: Steering, suspension, and driveline basics. An article on how it works and where to look for problems.

83 CJ7, 4.1L 6cyl (4.0L bored .030" over), 35" tires, T-5 transmission, Dana 300 TC, Trussed AMC 20.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 08:07 PM   #12
ymurf
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The guy I bought it from told me it needed rotors so I figured I would just take them apart and check everything. I just have never took a jeep hub apart and wasn't sure what order to do it.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 09:35 PM   #13
h2ojeep
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If the wabble is when you hit the brakes, it could be warped roters, or loose bearing. Jack up one side just enought to clear about an inch. Grab the tire and see if you have play side to side, up and down. If so, good indication of loose bearings.

In any situation, you are going to have to go into the bearings to replace or "turn" your rotors. As I noted in my first post, if you are going into the hub (which is in front of the rotor), go ahead and at least inspect the races and bearings.

If they are ok, then clean and repack. Then re- assemble.

If is were mine (as I did on mine) I went into the bearings for no reason other than I had no idea what the PO had done or not done. I ended up replacing some races and bearings and went back in with new rear seals. I also like the gasket between the lockout and the hub, so I replace them every time I go into the hub (they cost 99cents)

It is new to you:
While you are at it, (also as I did), I would drain and replace the lube in each differential, give it a good grease job. drain and replace the fluids in the transmission and transfer case. Change the airfilter, do a motor oil and filter change. and then maybe rebuild the carb. Change the belts and hoses, and replace the antifreeze. Put on new break shoes and pads. Then you know what you have.

You dont have to do all that in one afternoon

Date what you did and what part numbers you used.
THE JEEP WILL SOON BE YOURS AND NOT THE PO'S

When you get ready to do something, Learn to use the search feature on this forum, there is a ton of good information written by guys that have been there (and sometimes some bad info too)

(I am sure I forgot something.)......................ujoints???
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Unread 06-13-2011, 09:42 PM   #14
ymurf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2ojeep View Post
If the wabble is when you hit the brakes, it could be warped roters, or loose bearing. Jack up one side just enought to clear about an inch. Grab the tire and see if you have play side to side, up and down. If so, good indication of loose bearings.

In any situation, you are going to have to go into the bearings to replace or "turn" your rotors. As I noted in my first post, if you are going into the hub (which is in front of the rotor), go ahead and at least inspect the races and bearings.

If they are ok, then clean and repack. Then re- assemble.

If is were mine (as I did on mine) I went into the bearings for no reason other than I had no idea what the PO had done or not done. I ended up replacing some races and bearings and went back in with new rear seals. I also like the gasket between the lockout and the hub, so I replace them every time I go into the hub (they cost 99cents)

It is new to you:
While you are at it, (also as I did), I would drain and replace the lube in each differential, give it a good grease job. drain and replace the fluids in the transmission and transfer case. Change the airfilter, do a motor oil and filter change. and then maybe rebuild the carb. Change the belts and hoses, and replace the antifreeze. Put on new break shoes and pads. Then you know what you have.

You dont have to do all that in one afternoon

Date what you did and what part numbers you used.
THE JEEP WILL SOON BE YOURS AND NOT THE PO'S

When you get ready to do something, Learn to use the search feature on this forum, there is a ton of good information written by guys that have been there (and sometimes some bad info too)

(I am sure I forgot something.)......................ujoints???
Yea,Drivers side axle joint is shot.
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Unread 06-13-2011, 10:00 PM   #15
h2ojeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymurf View Post
Yea,Drivers side axle joint is shot.

The very true statement is:

JEEPS ARE BUILT, NOT BOUGHT.

While it may seem overwhelming right now, that is not a really big problem and is not a lot of expense to fix.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ca...g-help-673545/

I like Timkin or Federal Mogal joints. get the ones with grease zerts. Stay away from the China stuff.

Good luck.
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