So I'm to the point where I'm replacing the key cylinder in ignition. Reason being the P.O. Thought a screw driver would make a good key. Now I have the column torn down but can't get the cylinder to turn to get the retainer pushed down and cylinder pulled out
Yeah. I tried all the flat blade screw drivers in my arsenal. I just can't get it to turn to get that retainer pushed down. I'm tempted to try drill the whole thing out but unsure of consequences of that route. Any other suggestions would be awesome. I'm sure there has to be a way. I'm certainly not gonna scrap a decent tilt column because of this.
I have gotten them out before with the driver in the slot without the key but perhaps mine are worn columns.
Thsi is a GM column and there is plenty of info on the net on how to steal them. I do not condone theft but in the interest of academic research it is worth a look at how you would steal a 1980 Camaro.
This is what I learnt from the Net, which I have edited a bit:
Since 1978 gm has used a hardened steel pin that screws thru the ignition cylinder making it impossible to pull the six pin ignition using a dent puller........
GM ignition locks use a side bar so it is useless to try and pick these locks--unless you can put pressure on the side bar--
first break off the ignition cap--or the "ears" as many people call it--now--if you look at the face of the cylinder you will see a circular indent that goes around the entire cylinder about 3/8 of an inch from the keyway--this is where you are going to drill--right in the indent--
draw an imaginary line from the center of the keyway to this indent towards you--now take a 1/8 inch high speed drill bit and drill thru this face plate--you will drill thru it very easy once through remove the bit--
you now have access to the side bar --now take a paper clip--or similar piece of wire--bevel one end--then with a pick or similar item "rake" the tumblers(the tumblers are on the bottom of the lock in this type of cylinder) while at the same time applying pressure to the side bar with the clip--
keep pushing in on the clip and raking the tumblers until all 6 tumblers are picked(these types of ignitions pick very very easily when you can apply pressure to the side bar!)--
now while still holding pressure on the side bar take a flat head screw driver and turn the ignition towards the on position--
because you still have the clip on the side bar you will only be able to turn the lock a little bit but it is far enough to hold the side bar in place so you can remove the clip--
now with turning pressure held on the screw driver remove the clip and continue turning the ignition to the start position
At this point the lock cylinder should just pop out and you will have it in your hand.
The only difficult bit here is raking the tumblers whilst maintaining the pressure on the side bar so you may need some help or work out some clamp to keep pressure on it. You already have access to the sidebar so half of this method, teh drilling etc, is not needed. All you really need to do is to put pressure on the sidebar with teh screwdriver through the slot and then motivate the tumblers into position. I am surprised if a screwdriver was being used that you woudl have much trouble in making it turn.
I have changed a number of these locks and they and the housings are junk. It will not take much to get them to move and my problem is usually that no key is required or that the lock falls on the floor from time to time. Just beware that if you try to force them very hard that the housing is softer than the cylinder and they will split the housing before dropping out.
I think Ive done them without the key (turning them) as well. A thin screwdriver wasn't thin enough, I found a constant thickness of metal , but still overall thin, was better....like a thin bracket or scrap metal piece.
You need to press it in straight and fairly firm, While pulling out on the lock. With yours, you may need to insert a large screw into the keyhole to pull out with.
I did get it to turn. But the whole lock cylinder is turned my steering column but assuming you don't have that problem I found you can take 1/4 drill bit and drill out the bar. Just search 6 position gm key cylinder on YouTube. If you don't find a guy talk about how to start old GMs without the keys for auctions let me know I will find it again and post it
OK. At this point I think I will install a dash mounted ignition switch (I have a spare) and use whats left of the column one as a steering wheel lock. The lock turns fine and I can push the tab in but it will not come out.
I would rather have a tool I don't need, than need a tool I don't have.