Motorcraft 4350 I think I have it figured out, I talked to a guy who used to do a lot of work on Ford carbs. I just had to get the float in the right position, and the vacuum piston fine tuned. There is a primary and auxiliary valve on the fuel inlet, so you really have to check the float levers and make sure its dialed in right to seat. I went with a **** hair over an inch on the float level, and 1/32 on the auxiliary inlet. I think my problem worsened when I dropped my transfer case for the lift. It was probably out of tune because the PO had already dropped the t case 1". The vacuum piston and metering rods are another story I guess you have to dial them in over time. I found a link online that said 1/8" of travel that was 6 turns for me. I went 1.5 turns on the idle air mixture screws. 2 notches rich on the auto choke. Also on the primary throttle lever there was a tab that was bent and wasn't catching a spring end on the secondary shaft so the secondary throttle plates weren't being opened.
That little lever that was bent got caught on the wrong side of that spring and stuck the carb wide open on a test drive, which wouldn't have been bad If I could have had my brakes bled, I tried and tried after the lift, damn near wet myself, I came in hot about 20mph into the shop, luckily my dads project 46 power wagon was parked in there and I managed to hit my front tire on his and bounced it back about 5 feet, thank god it was there and weighs so much or the shop would be a drive thru. I think the 10 psi in my tires really helped out. When I got out the end of my handyman jack was about 2" from the side of his Coronet project. My jeep has a nasty sense of humor to do that to me last night, on April fools. Thanks for the replies guys.