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post #1 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
spottedfrog
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to Lincon lock or not?

I want to eventually re-gear too 4.56 and 33s
But the carrier split is against me and I'll have to change out the carriers. I really don't want to dump too much into these axles, I'd rather upgrade to D44s at WT or Wrangler width.
So in the interim I'm thinking about welding the front Diff on the D30. I have lock out hubs so I wouldn't have to deal with the locked front on the street.
And I'd have to swap out the carrier to regear if I did decide to keep the NTs.

Help me decide if I should or should not weld.

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post #2 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 01:07 PM
LumpyGrits
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Not for snow/ice.
You would be much better off with a Power-Loc LSD.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=177798
I was born and rasied in Colo. I would never want a 'hard' locker for snow/ice.
LG
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
spottedfrog
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I can unlock one hub on snow Ice If I "needed" 4wd to get to work.

Don't want to dump money into the Axles for the same gearing. so any type of locker is out unless I regear, so I'd be dumping a around $700++ (ring, pinion, seals, carrier/locker) into axles I don't particularly care for.

I originally wanted to do a Spartan in the front and a true track in the rear, but 1. I would still have NT axles, 2. The carrier split is against me and I'd have to get new lockers/LS when I regear.
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 02:05 PM
LumpyGrits
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1 unlocked hub will = broken stuff and not much control. BTDT.
LG
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 02:06 PM
Spieg8
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I would never weld the diff, but that's just me... Why not just run open until you can spring for the new front axle?
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post #6 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
spottedfrog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
1 unlocked hub will = broken stuff and not much control. BTDT.
LG
This is my concern.
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 04:14 PM
holliewood61
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i run a welded 30, and have broken a few welded 30's on the trail with 35's and a 304. In the snow I only lock 1 hub and it seems to do fine. but I have several extra 30's to last me until I get the scout 44's under it.
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 06:13 PM
Freak3
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I run a welded rear end and a lock right locker in the front on my Truggy. I would stay away from the welded front because even with the one hub unlocked steering with tuff.
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post #9 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
spottedfrog
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Looks like I might steer clear of the welded dif.
Just thought it'd be a "good enough" till I got something better.
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 08:07 PM
Kman1983
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You could go with an Aussie locker in the front. It's a "lunch box locker" it will work in the new carrier when you swap gears.

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post #11 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
spottedfrog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman1983 View Post
You could go with an Aussie locker in the front. It's a "lunch box locker" it will work in the new carrier when you swap gears.
Lunch box type was my original thought but I think that I still need the one for the correct ratio split. I'm on the wrong side of where I want to be.
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post #12 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 08:32 PM
petey156
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No to Lincoln, but I miller locked mine, Off road only
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post #13 of 18 Old 07-01-2013, 09:23 PM
agear
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Just so you know you're supposed to lock the front hubs every now and then. It keeps everything lubed inside the case.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #14 of 18 Old 07-02-2013, 09:22 AM
Joe6Pack74
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Just if you go with a lunchbox style locker you may have to remove the ring gear to replace it. On the one I am installing the pinion shaft would not clear the ring gear. That is just something to consider if you don't know that.
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-02-2013, 09:59 AM
hutch1200
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Stupid Q of the day

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe6Pack74 View Post
Just if you go with a lunchbox style locker you may have to remove the ring gear to replace it. On the one I am installing the pinion shaft would not clear the ring gear. That is just something to consider if you don't know that.
Do R&P gears have to be a matched set, wear wise, like a dizzy gear and cam gear? Meaning they have worn in together.
I ask this in all sincerity because the thought just came to me. I just went from 2.72s (2.73s?) to 4.10s so this is just for my personal knowledge. And this place is where I get to pick the best info.

I've also learned that sometimes... when people don't agree with you .... its best to hold them down and kidney punch them till they agree with you
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